What are the differences between #1 Diesel and #2 Diesel? Is it just the cetane rating? Or is one of them the un-taxed ag diesel? Also, what exactly is the physical meaning of the cetane rating? Is it the diesel version of octane rating? Thanks.

Obviously a newbie, just trying to learn something.

 

Welcome!!!! Basicaly, the differance between #1 and #2 is #1 will flow better and not gell as soon as #2 (cold weather thing). #1 also has a slight amount less BTU's (that is the amount of energy available). You are right, cetain is to diesel what octane is to gas.
BTW, untaxed diesel it colored red (don't get caught with it in your tank). That way the DOT and tax departments can nail you for tax evasion.
Tom

 

#1 diesel is usually refered to as Kerosine.

From http://www.inchem.org/documents/iarc/vol45/45-05.html

Synonyms for Diesel fuel (general)
Auto diesel
Automotive diesel oil (ADO)
Derv
Diesel
Diesel fuel oil
Gas oil

Synonyms for Diesel fuel No. 1
No. 1 Diesel
Kerosine
Arctic diesel
Diesel fuel oil No. 1
Diesel oil No. 1
Dipolar

Synonyms for Diesel fuel No. 2
Diesel fuel
Diesel fuel oil No. 2
Diesel oil No. 2

Synonyms for Diesel fuel No. 4
Marine diesel fuel
Distillate marine diesel fuel

 

Cetane and octane are both the measure of a fuel's willingness to ignite. Big difference is cetane is the ignition point when it gets compressed, octane is the willingness to ignite with a spark. This difference is what makes a diesel engine run poorly on gasoline and a gas engine run poorly on diesel fuel.

 

A freind of mine who is a mechanic for Cummins told me to run as high a cetane as I could get in the Dodge Cummins engines. I have done this as best I could since 1997 when I got my first Dodge Cummins. I can tell the difference when I have to run 40 cetane as the power is not quiet the same and fuel milage drops some.
Another freind who is a Ford man and has a small farm decided to run ag/off road diesel in his Powerstroke. He thought that was good for him until he started having performance issues and his fuel milage was junk. Cost him plenty to have the local Ford dealer clean up the mess he made in the engine. Off road/Ag diesel is not worth the trouble that it causes. These new diesel engines are refined hybrids compared to the old standard diesel and demand respect.

 

IMHO, "These new diesel engines" are not as advantageous as one might think. I'd much rather have an old school diesel which will run many different fuels/grades than one which must be pampered and babied and sent to the shop a lot.

When #2 diesel isn't available, run #1. When that's not available run Kerosene. When you can't get kerosene, run Biodiesel, when you can't get that run SVO.

Specialization is for insects.

Edwin

 

Cummins states you can run #1 in an emergency, but you must add a specific amount of (usually motor oil) lubricity additive at the same time.
Kero is a very 'dry' fuel and doesn't have additives to lubricate the moving parts of the injection system.

 

Adding a little oil for lubrication isn't a high price to pay if you're up against the wall. Biodiesel would be the best choice AFAIK since it has superior lubricity and emissions properties.

Aren't the later model pumps designed to run without lubrication in the fuel? I.E. they're lubricated by engine oil. The VE pump isn't though so you must have lube in the fuel.

Edwin

 

The 12 V pumps I believe were motor oil lubed, all the 24V engines injection pumps are lubed & cooled via diesel fuel.

 

ALL injection pumps and injectors use fuel to cool and lubricate. SOME pumps (such as the P7100 and CAPS) use engine oil on the lower end. The higher injection pressures required to meet emissions also require tighter clearances in the pumps & injectors and thus higher lubricity.

Back to the original question.
#1 has lower BTU, but usually higher cetane compared to #2
#1 is often blended with #2 to reduce the cloud and gel points in cooler climates. This ratio varies as low as 20% to as high as 60% #1 depending on the area.
Watch your temperature. Often you can get by running straight #2 and a good anti-gel additive.
Around here heating fuel drives the pipeline supply quality so cetane stinks in either #1 or #2 fuels in the winter. (Furnaces don't require high cetane.)

DF#1 and kerosene (kerosine) were vastly different products just a few years back. DF#1 has degraded to the point it is near kerosene. Now, many "kerosene" type heaters allow use of DF#1 or kerosene. I tried #1 in a torpedo (Knipco) heater a couple years ago and it seemed to stink a little more than running kerosene. I haven't tried it in a wick style heater.

DF#2 and red ag fuel are identical fuels in most areas. I often hear of water in fuel and other issues with ag diesel from low turn over or poor preventative maintenance in changing filters and adding biocide.
Modern ag diesels are almost identical to on road diesels.

 

From reading this thread I would assume that it's a good idea to always use a fuel additive winter and summer. Does the Power Service brand work well or is there better available? The PS brand is usually available at WalMart and most truck stops I've been at lately.

Edwin

 

One difference is that the higher the Cetane number the EASIER the fuel will ignite. The higher the Octane number the more RESISTANT to ignition the fuel is. In both cases (within reason) the higher number the better.

 

very true... in many, the only difference is in engine ecm programing

 

Thanks for the response guys. Now the follow-up question: Since #2 sounds like it's higher quality fuel, but #1 sounds like it's more resistant to gelling, is it more advantageous to run #2 in summer and #1 in winter with lubricity additives? Or is it better to run #2 all year around and use anti-gel additives when it gets cold? This question is regarding truck maintainence, rather than cost. I'd rather spend a couple bucks on fuel additive than $5500 on a new motor.

Here in Iowa we get sub-freezing temperatures anywhere from mid-October to mid-March, so I assume there is an ample supply of "winter blend" at the pumps.

Thanks for your help, I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I get my truck. This site is awesome.

 

The northern fuel suppliers switch to "Winter Blends" of diesel fuel in the cooler months.
Some add anti-gell additives, and some "cut" the diesel with #1 diesel to prevent gelling, some do both.
Some diesel truck owners don't use additives and never have a problem.
I always add Diesel Fuel Additives to help add lubricity, boost Cetane, and additional anti-gell
'cuz you just never know...........