Stamey

Does anyone know where to find the procedure for verifying the timing and perhaps advancing it on a 1986 DT466? I turned the star wheel, which helped a little, but the truck this is in weighs 39,600, and it needs more help. When I drive it I, pretty much, put a brick on the pedal and hope I only need to go downhill. I might see 65mph downhill, with a tail wind.
It has a bit of blue smoke at idle, which makes me suspect that the timing may be retarded a bit. It has less than 80K on it, but about 7K hours, as it is a bucket truck and sits still running most of the time.
Apparently this is similar to a P-pump, but it isn't really a P-pump on this year DT466, so I don't know how much they have in common besides the star wheel.

Thanks,
Chris

DiezelSmoke

Are the inj. lines in a row or go around in a circle at the inj. pump?

Stamey

In a row. It looks strikingly like a P7100, but according to this page, it isn't a P7100: http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm
That page says it's an "MW pump".

Thanks,
Chris

DiezelSmoke

1) Take the #1 fuel line off. 2) Pressurize the fuel system. 3) Turn crankshaft til fuel stops running out the #1 port on inj. pump. 4) On the front of the crank will be degrees marked on it, read it at the pointer location and that will be your timing.

nevrenufhp

The older ones have about 8 or 10 bolts to remove the cover from the timing case. I think there's 2 sets of bolts that have nuts on the back side. You may need to re-gasket the cover before re-installation. Remove the plug on the side of the timing gear case, it has a 3/8" square drive. In there you will be lining up the timing marks. Very helpful to have a second person here. Bar the engine over from the alternator until the timing marks are lined up on the pointers, the will look like this: >< when it's lined up. When you have that, mark on the balancer or make note of your original setting. Now loosen up the bolts(don't remove) on the gear, after you pull off the front cover, but leave 1 tight. Bar the engine over from the alt. to advance slowly until desired amount of degrees. If no timing marks to go by, measure 1/8" per degree. Loosen the last bolt on the gear, and line the marks back up using the big nut on the front of the pump. Then, tighten the gear bolts back up, put on the front cover, and timing plug.


The 4 bolts on the timing adjustment need to be pretty tight, but be careful not to go too tight & break one off(specs say 38ft lbs). If yours is set at 17* timing from the factory, you may not even notice any benefit, this is more for the 10-15* timed engines. The goal is to be around 17-19* advanced timing and after you've upped the fuel rate some.

nevrenufhp

You should adjust the fuel screw also, it takes about 10 min.
Here's my bucket truck, it's a 94(with a P-pump). Compare to your 0-55mph times

Stamey

Thanks for the info. I have looked at the timing cover, what I can see if it, and am discouraged by the lack of view, probably due to the air compressor mounted directly over the injector pump.
I have found the fuel screw, thanks to this web page: http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm,
and turned out as far as I dare. Now it has better pickup and lots of black smoke. I now wonder if I should have a pyro gauge on it.
I am going to look harder at the timing cover later today.

Thanks,
Chris

nevrenufhp

That's my site, but I'm not allowed to keep it in my signature anymore. The compressor should share a couple bolts with the cover. Should take about an hour to finish.

Stamey

Shucks, my truck will never compare to that, even if I get the timing advanced AND nitrous. I have a Road Ranger 13 speed, with 3 ranges. The fewest gears I can use to get up to speed is 6, starting in Direct-2.

It's pretty cold here now, and I just don't feel the need to go out and tinker with the truck, until the temps come back up a bit.

Thanks,
Chris

nevrenufhp

I made a basic video on a timing adjustment. There's a couple more that show the fuel screw and gov springs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRzQkiOP9rI