In June I bought a 1998 international 4700 with the DT466e motor. It has always had a slight miss at start up and as it warms up it would run 100%.If I let the truck sit more then 12hours same startup issue. If it sat for under 12 hours or so it would start right up with very little issues. These past few weeks it's been taking longer and longer to start. This past 2 weeks it has taken me over an hour to start with the help of a battery charger since batteries would dye from trying so much. I changed the fuel filter thinking this would help. No go. I took the truck home yesterday and plugged it in. When I went out this Morning it has had the best cold startup EVER!!! but this was with less then 12 hours of sitting but even tho still best "cold" startup ever. I now have it plugged in again and I plan on leaving it for well over 12 hours sitting to see what happens.

I am new to Diesels and figured I'd post to see what you guys think and maybe get some help. Thanks guys! Names Eddie

 

BTW I'm in Central Florida.

 

Does it have glowplugs? are you letting them stay on for the right amount of time? Might want to try diesel bombers.com site as this one is a cummins site but I'm sure someone here knows these things

 

I use to work on these so Ill give it a shot. How cold is it when it doesn't start? These don't have glow plugs, they use a grid heater like our Cummins and it will start if the grid don't heat up. IIRC these use HUEI injectors like the 7.3 powerstokes. Give it an oil change and then go from there. What you are describing sounds like worn out injectors.

 

In 40-70degres. Truck is well over due for an oil change. Well over due.

 

No glow plugs or grid heater in the dt466 until 2004 then they put grid heaters in them dependent on geographical location. You most likely have a high pressure oil pressure issue causing the extended start. You could also have a fuel deliver issue, fuel restriction issue, or a faulty check ball in the fuel supply line. When you changed the fuel filter did you remove and clean out the fuel screen in the small plastic screw on container behind the fuel filter? That would be the first place I would start.


Check it out and report back, I will guide you through the processes needed to fix your truck.

 

Never cleaned the screen. The reason I changed the filter when I did was due to it having a long start. Well I have a tow job to do now. So let's see how long it takes after being plugged in for a while.

 

The fuel screen is the first thing to clean, it is before the filter in the system. Remove the filter then you will see a small plastic housing that is serrated, it may be tight if it hasd not been removed in a while. Unscrew it clean and blow it out gently, then be sure to fill it with fuel, then top off the filter.

check it out after your tow job, I will be back on later.

 

Hvytrkmech, I forgot about half that stuff until your post triggered my memory. I didn't realize grids were optional. The ones I worked on had grids and were bought in Texas so I assumed they all did. Good piece of info.

 

Ok here goes.

I went out this morning as I expected the truck fired right up being plugged in. Once I saw your post I went ahead and removed the plastic cap/cup thing. Holy ******* mother of GOD!!!!! These pictures only show a Third of the dirt

 

Oh my. What is the source of all that? it had to come from somewhere? is the tank plastic or metal? Or rusted out metal?

 

Tank is metal

 

So I went to cold start the truck today. Not plugged in. It started up after 30secs or so and was rough. Knocking heavy. But none the less it started I think that screen cleaning was a great start

 

Check for engine off static fuel pressure, it should have at least 20psi holding in the line, if it does not, then crank the engine and see what the fuel pressure is. Shrader valve is on the fuel filter manifold. If it starts at zero but quickly comes up to operating pressure- 45psi at idle 60-65 above 1,500 rpm your good.. Your gauge will bounce awful bad at idle but should stabilize at higher rpm. If the fuel pressure does not come right up check the fuel supply check ball, it is located in the fuel screen housing. On top of the housing is a plastic plug, looks like a large philips head screw, remove the plug and pull out the black rubber check ball and inspect it for deterioration. If it is bad replace it, if not put it back in. If all checks out good up till this point but you still have a fuel bleed down issue or slow fuel pressure rise pull the dog house cover in the cab. On the left rear of the engine high pressure oil and fuel manifold is a return flow check valve, they do fail in the open or partially open position causing extended crank to start conditions. To check this simply pull the fuel line off and crank the engine, any fuel coming out of the check valve while cranking is a no go, change the valve.

If everything checks out till this point and you still have low fuel pressure suspect a fuel pump. It is located on the HPOP and is very easy to service.

Let me know how you make out from here.

 

Ok will try to do what you just said . Today I went out and did a cold start and it started better then ever! Maybe took 4 secs tops to start and felt like a very very slight miss but I think that's just from the motor being dead cold. So If the ***** check out and all I think we are good to go. I'm happy that we cleaned that screen out. I don't think anyone who has ever serviced this truck has ever opened that. I'm happy you told me cause if not it would have gone that way the life of the truck.