Mark Hodowanec

Instead of getting rid of my oil when I change it, can I dump it in my fuel tank? I dumped the oil filter & the oil in it to the oil that I recycle, so the 10 quarts that drained out have been filtered thru the engine oil filter. I just got a new oil drain pan for this. So, the oil came strait from my engine, to the pan, to 1 gallon jugs from the new oil that is now in the engine. Would there be any additional filtering required?

tesla440

When I looked in my owner's manual it said you could put up to a 5% wmo directly into the tank. I'm assuming that yours will say the same thing.

I've run alot higher percentages than that. But I have a filter setup and preblend the mixture before it goes into the tank.

Mark Hodowanec

Great - thanks for the reply. Now, what about the filtering. Strait our of the engine into a new oil drain pan good enough?

tesla440

I believe that's what the book said. I haven't checked it out in a while. I personally would put it through some sort of filter before hand, just so that it was cleaner and not put as much as filtration responsibility on your stock fuel filter. Filter bags from McMaster dot com are cheap. I have a two stage one, 5micron to 1micron. But you can get just a sign stage 5micron & be just fine. It will all depend on how you do it. I would recommend keeping it on the cheap since you're only doing a small amount. You don't want to spend more than you save on a filtration system. You could do a simple gravity feed thru a 5 micron golden rod filter with hose & a funel into a fuel can. Just make sure that the oil is warm (+50*F) that way it will flow alot better/faster.

megacabdad

5% Bio Diesel, NOT waste motor oil.

Desert Dually

I would keep an extra fuel filter and wrench and rags on hand in case you need to do a side-of-the-road fuel filter change. Especially if you arent filtering the oil down to one micron before putting it in your tank. Your injectors (according to Bosch specs) dont like particles in the fuel larger than that.

That being said, then YES, you can run WMO in the 3rd Gen Common Rails at a low concentration, but certainly above 5%. It is not recommended, but it will run on it. Probably helps lube the injection pump, but is rumored to cause a higher carbon buildup in the engine as a result of its combustion.

JP-4.5

I did this for awhile on my 2004.5. Definitly clogs filters quickly depending on how clean you filter before putting in your tank. It would clogg my pre-pump filter up fairly often and was not worth the trouble to keep changing these at unconvenient intervals.. Truck ran fine on the oil

I used Rotella T in the truck when I tried this process. When this did not work out I went back to Amsoil and do not recomend running synthetic thru the truck.

AH64ID

Modern oils are designed NOT to burn, so why would you use a fuel-lube that will not combust cleanly? Consider #2 ignites about 150*F. The oil I run has a flash point of 460*F. So this means at low combustion temps, idle..etc, you will not be burning or fully burning the oil; leading to carbon deposits.

Also consider how much metal and contaminates are in WMO. When I changed my last oil it was at 347ppm Iron, 532ppm Copper, and 3% soot.. Again why would you put those abrasives thru a 23K psi system? Yes filtering helps, but those particles are the ones that made it past my 2um bypass oil filter.

On older trucks they were allowed 5% WMO. But injectors, pumps, etc didn't operate at the pressure and were much more tolerant of contaminates.

Add 2-stroke or something else if you want the lube.

tesla440

I do agree with synthenic not burning as well. But at lower percentages (under 50%) it will be fine. As for the higher ignition temp of WMO, I wouldn't worry about it. If you exhaust temps area around 400* (around idle), which means that they had to be higher than that in the combution chamber since they've been cooled off as the exit. Since when you drive your truck it's working harder (higher egts), it should all burn.

If I remember correctly only about 30% (don’t remember exact percentage) of the energy released from ignition of fuel is converted over to mechanical energy and the rest into heat (before the turbo). So for the 120,000BTU of energy in diesel fuel, that seems to be a lot of heat produced.

I really don't see the difference between a 2um piece of metal and a 2um piece of dirt. At the 23K pressures, they're both going to do the same type of damage.

The older cummins run much higher ratios of wmo to diesel. Which there are a lot of high mileage Cummins that have been burn high percentages of wmo without problems. I believe that the older Cummins can burn this higher percentages due to their higher compression ratio.

The only difference between the older cummins & newer is the higher injection pressures and compression ratios in respect to burning fuel. Both burn the fuel the same way, ignition by compression.

It think it only comes down to if you feel confortable burning WMO. As for burning wmo & EPA, I don't see any difference between a waste oil heaters running at 800* without any exhaust scrubers & they are EPA certified and our trucks which I'm sure that the combustion temperatures are close at idle and much higher when running.

chariotdriver

I've been running WMO and just about anything else with a carbon atom attached for the last 10 years. Tranny fluid, transformer oil, 30+ year old #2 from a relatives old house, even some old 2 stroke boat gas that was varnished up. If you filter the stuff with a good hydrosorb filter you won't have any problems. I run mine through a 2 micron Cim-Tek (bio-tek) filter and have not had any problems in the 10-25% mix range.

From the above post

"Also consider how much metal and contaminates are in WMO. When I changed my last oil it was at 347ppm Iron, 532ppm Copper, and 3% soot.. Again why would you put those abrasives thru a 23K psi system? Yes filtering helps, but those particles are the ones that made it past my 2um bypass oil filter."

Holy crap! that is a bunch of metal in a sample. You either have something wrong with the engine or the sample was burned incorrectly.

cd

AH64ID

The oil was suitable for continued use, I just changed it since it had 20K miles on it. Contaminates go up as miles go up, nothing you can do. The copper was a bit more elevetated than my current oil since that was the first time the truck towed anything heavy, so the oil cooler leached a bit.. normal for a new engine.

Jim O

I have never run 20000miles on an oil change but I have run 20,000Kilometers ( about 12500miles) and I have never had readings as high as yours I have never been above 150ppm iron and I have an amsoil bypass filter (2micron) I have been on oil analysis since the truck was new. I usually change oil at 200 hrs and I use Esso 0-40 all year round. The worst reading I ever had was at 236hrs 19582Kms or 12169miles the Iron reading was 149ppm. That was the Time I went to the NASCAR race in Fontana CA. traveling from Edmonton Alberta to Fontana via Las Vegas and from Vegas to Fontana it was 110+ degrees F and I was pulling a Fifth wheel and the gross combined weight was 19000 + lbs. I returned home via the California Oregon and Washington and crossed the Rocky Mtns to Alberta.
I now have 225,000 kms on my engine (3584hrs) and now I know why I don't run 20,000 miles on and oil change.
Jim O

AH64ID

At that few of miles my oil was that clean too.. Thats only 60% of the miles, so only 60% of the wear metals should be in the oil. That was my first run with amsoil and a bypass, the oil went in the truck at 13K miles, high readings are expected on a motor with that few miles. On my latest samle at 15K miles my Iron was 147ppm, back on par for the miles.

Again like I said for the miles there is nothing wrong with that. As you mileage increase the parts that are smaller than 2um are going to increase, wear happens. Consider that an OE change interval is between 7500 and 15000 miles, running 20K miles on great oil with great filtering isn't a big deal.

FunFinder5

My only complaint in running WMO so far is that I can't find enough of it. And gravity filtering sucks! I'm rigging up a pump and screw on type filter (10 micron). I use the 5 micron Baldwin filters in my truck. No issues and the injector noise is super quite.