how to run bio in the winter
 

how are you guys running bio in the winter? we tried 911 in ours and it kept clogging our fuel filters. We test every batch with the 27 3 method.

Kerosene is the cheapest and most available method. I know that kero is a fossil fuel but I know folks that say this works the best. I have heard blending all the way to 30% bio 70% kero. I wish there were some cheap addatives on the market but there doesnt seem to be. If there are, please inform me.

DK

does bio and kero mix well? I tried many different samples testing for gel point of mixing #2 and bio. I found if I let them sit the bio and diesel would separate with bio on bottom, which would be the first thing sucked up in the tank clogging filters.

are you making you own biodiesel?
it shouldn't separate when mixed with diesel. mine doesn't. at the beginning of the last winter I sat 4 jar with various blends on a table outside. there still outside and show no signs of separation.

-dkenny

Thats weird that power service 911 was still clogging filters...I don't reccomend this to anyone...But I've ran my truck in winter as high as 40% bio.Which is outright stupid..[duhhh].I would put a small amount of 911(maybe 2 to 3 oz) directly into my 19 litre jug of bio.Didn't have a problem...maybe I was just lucky.This last winter I did gelled up on the highway...wow..I thought thats it,I finally really did it..I put in 1/2 litre of 911,cranked the truck and away I went...That was scary...I wonder if some of this bio that gells so quick in winter is the result of to much water in the bio.

Yes we are making between 250-500 gallons a week. I will have to test it again.

It all depends on your feed stock.I cold filter my used oil to remove all solid oil ie lard . If I make a batch with oil that was filtered at 70 deg it will gell up at a higher temp than oil that was filtered at 40deg. I run at 50 to 75 % bio to diesel all winter over night temps can get as low as 15 deg most of the time they are 25 to 30 durring the coldest times.

Biodiesel is a tough one in the winter. Ive had clogging even at low concentrations with winter diesel.
My guess is the only remedy is to run a veggie conversion and use bio in the winter with diesel starts and purges.
Since you need two fuel systems and heat, this is really the only sure way to go.

redroot, where are you? I've been as low as 12*F on B80 with no trouble. Your bio shouldn't separate from the D-2; what method are you using to process? Post it up or PM me- I've been doing it for almost 8 yrs with no noteable problems, using single stage base, 2-stage base, acid/base, heat/pressure vessel... lots of fun, over 8,000 gallons processed in 20- 40- 50 and 100-gallon batches.

Heaters, my friend. Here's a post I submitted awhile ago on the tdiclub.com forum I'm on, should be of some use here, as well....

I have been doing searches for cold weather options (heaters and ways to prevent the cold from affecting my 2 vehicles: 2006.5 Jetta TDI & 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins). I already use a couple of these options, but decided to share some of my research with everyone. The purpose is to put this information into a single thread, as I had to read through dozens of threads on this site and others to come up with this info. Maybe someone can better format this and turn it into a 'sticky', if useful.

Some of these options are geared towards biodiesel blend users, but most are for those that live in cold weather regions and concerned about warming/fuel gelling issues with normal diesel.

Company: Frostheater
Type: Coolant heater
Purpose: Heat & circulate coolant
Power: 110VAC
Site: www.frostheater.com
Cost: $120-140 +ship (depending on model)
Notes: Very common in TDI community, many references on tdiclub.com forums

Company: Diesel Injection Service
Type: In-line Fuel Heater
Purpose: Heats fuel before it reaches fuel filter
Power: 12VDC (150 Watt)
Site: www.disnet.com (item not listed on site, must call)
Cost: $52 + ship
Notes: I have been using this in my 2005 Dodge 2500 Cummins for almost a year while running B50 thru 100% D2 and have had a very good experience. DisNet uses them on all of their VW vehicles in their fleet. My friend has been using it for 2 winters and is very happy with it.

Company: Nomad / Parker / Racor
Type: In-line fuel heater
Purpose: Heats fuel before it reaches fuel filter
Power: 12 or 24 VDC (300 watt)
Site: www.parker.com (go to PRODUCTS | HEATERS)
Cost: Unsure
Notes: I found this online, but have not researched it. At 300 watt, it is double the power output of the DisNet option, which works fine for my Dodge Cummins, I think it's overkill for my VW in PA. Maybe in colder locations, this would be a good option.

Company: Fryer to Fuel
Type: In-line fuel heater
Purpose: Heats fuel before it reaches fuel filter
Power: DC
Site: www.fryer-to-fuel.com
Cost: $160-165 (depending on size)
Notes: I have not researched these much, as (with above) it's designed for WVO heating and is probably overkill for little to no biodiesel blends (what I'm using it for), plus it's more than twice the cost of the DisNet option.

In-line fuel heaters and other heaters can also be found at www.arctic-fox.com, but I know nothing about them, they could very well be a great product.

Company: Fryer to Fuel
Type: Heater Wrap for Fuel Filter Housing
Purpose: For wrapping around fuel filter housing to prevent gelling at the fuel filter.
Site: www.fryer-to-fuel.com
Cost: $60-90 (depending on size)
Power: 12VDC
Notes: I have the small version and it works well on my Jetta TDI.

Company: Ultraheat
Type: Fuel Tank Heater Pad
Purpose: Warming fuel in tank
Site: http://www.ultraheat.com/rv_products.html
Power: 120VAC, 13.5VDC, or Both/dual
Cost: $91-130 (depending on size)
Notes: I have this on my Ram 2500 and it works well. My friend (who runs B100 year round in his Ram 2500 Cummins in North NJ) has one and has very positive results (combined with fuel filter wrap, and inline fuel heater).

Zerostart (http://www.zerostart.com/coldStart/d...technology.asp) also has some cold weather heating options. I don't have any experience with them.

Kat also makes heaters (magnetic & silicone pads running on AC, I believe). Google "Kat Heaters" for more info.

Front end covers or blankets could also be considered a item for this thread, as they do help insulate the engine compartment. If you search, you will probably find vendors that sell them custom made, but many people make them out of cardboard or use/cut pipe insulation and insert into the grill.

Since some of you also have other (non-VW) diesels...
For my Dodge Ram 2500, I will be purchasing the cold weather kit (Radiator cover, 2 electric heater blankets, and wiring harness for the OEM block heater). Cost $160-200 depending on vendor.
The cover is sold seperately, as well. Cost: ~$120

Obviously, there's other heating products and options out there. Maybe this is a good starting post for others to provide some info on other products.

I'll try to check back on this thread periodically & correct any info (OEM block heater?) and add any good info in responses, to keep the info consolidated.

Regards,
JustLuckey

My biggest problem is, to heat it will not work for me mainly because I don't have that long of a drive to work and I also don't feel like having to wait for it to heat up so I can go home at the end of the day.
The bio stopped separating from the bio, I wish I could find my notebook that I wrote all of this stuff down from last year. At 70% bio it is completely gelled at the 5-10 degrees that its been here.

This might help you. http://www.duffscience.com/bd_calculators.htm When putting the minimum temperature the right column is how much Bio you can run. Keith