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swaping a cummins for a gas motor

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Old 01-26-2011, 08:06 PM
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Exclamation swaping a cummins for a gas motor

i am thinking of buying a 2001 dodge 2500 4x4 with a v10 in it right now.what i was wondering is if i find a 2001 or 2002 cummins in a 2500 4x4 will the transmission fit the cummins and will the k frame be the same as the k frame in the V10. I KNOW ABOUT THE FUEL LINES AND PUMP ALREADY.AND WILL THE MOTOR MOUNTS FIT THE K FRAME IN THE v10.and whatever else i would need to change it all over.thanks in advance for any help.

Robert
Old 01-27-2011, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Ghostrider
i am thinking of buying a 2001 dodge 2500 4x4 with a v10 in it right now.what i was wondering is if i find a 2001 or 2002 cummins in a 2500 4x4 will the transmission fit the cummins and will the k frame be the same as the k frame in the V10. I KNOW ABOUT THE FUEL LINES AND PUMP ALREADY.AND WILL THE MOTOR MOUNTS FIT THE K FRAME IN THE v10.and whatever else i would need to change it all over.thanks in advance ... Robert

Did that exact swap.

Drivetrain components behind the V10 (manual) are the same as behind the Cummins. Clutch and pressure plate are different of course.
The bellhousings are exactly the same, the motor mounts are the same. I'd put new rubber in the motor mounts.
You'll need the radiator, intercooler, air conditioning condenser, shroud, etc. I'd recommend getting all the rads already assembled in a radiator support from the junk yard.
Also a Cummins front wiring harrness plus a PCM from a 2001-02 Cummins with the same transmission and tire size you'll be using.
The hydroboost is the same though you may need new hoses, there's no power steering cooler on the cummins so you'll need to reconfigure that hose to use the cooler or not.

Inside the cab you'll need to replace the cluster, though the V10 cluster will work but will be missing the diesel specific lights and the scale of the tach will be off.

If it is an automatic it should bolt up just fine, I'm just guessing but I'd bet the auto trans is the same also.
------------------------

I'm generally pleased with the swap, however I wish I'd heeded the advice of a very experienced Cummins guy. He advised me to install a "P" pumped 12 valve with an aftermarket cam.
He advised I wouldn't be pleased with the 24 valve's mileage -- he was dead right.
I love the driveability of the 24valve, but its mileage really sux and the power is a little timid.
The 4:10 gears don't help mileage on the highway I know, but the truck gets poor mileage just tooling around when the rpm's can be kept low by shifting gears.
I am seriously considering yanking out the 24v and dropping in a "P"pumper.
.
.
Old 01-27-2011, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ghenges
Did that exact swap.

Drivetrain components behind the V10 (manual) are the same as behind the Cummins. Clutch and pressure plate are different of course.
The bellhousings are exactly the same, the motor mounts are the same. I'd put new rubber in the motor mounts.
You'll need the radiator, intercooler, air conditioning condenser, shroud, etc. I'd recommend getting all the rads already assembled in a radiator support from the junk yard.
Also a Cummins front wiring harrness plus a PCM from a 2001-02 Cummins with the same transmission and tire size you'll be using.
The hydroboost is the same though you may need new hoses, there's no power steering cooler on the cummins so you'll need to reconfigure that hose to use the cooler or not.

Inside the cab you'll need to replace the cluster, though the V10 cluster will work but will be missing the diesel specific lights and the scale of the tach will be off.

If it is an automatic it should bolt up just fine, I'm just guessing but I'd bet the auto trans is the same also.
------------------------

I'm generally pleased with the swap, however I wish I'd heeded the advice of a very experienced Cummins guy. He advised me to install a "P" pumped 12 valve with an aftermarket cam.
He advised I wouldn't be pleased with the 24 valve's mileage -- he was dead right.
I love the driveability of the 24valve, but its mileage really sux and the power is a little timid.
The 4:10 gears don't help mileage on the highway I know, but the truck gets poor mileage just tooling around when the rpm's can be kept low by shifting gears.
I am seriously considering yanking out the 24v and dropping in a "P"pumper.
.
.

you should just p pump your 24 valve i dont think you would get any better milage with a 12V and those 410 gears thats whats killing you
Old 01-31-2011, 04:11 AM
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Get rid of the 4.10 gears to much strain on engine, and you dont need it, trust me. I am a 3.55 man unless you are towing over 30K. I have a spare 3.55 and 4.10 for 91 dodge 1 ton.
Old 01-31-2011, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jesussaves
you should just p pump your 24 valve i dont think you would get any better milage with a 12V and those 410 gears thats whats killing you
I am fully aware the 4:10's are restricting highway mileage.

BUT, operating the truck locally and keeping RPM's below 1600 by proper gear selection FAILS to get better than 13 mpg.
My brother in law's '97 P pumper gets 18-19 locally and up to 26 on flat interstate. Plus, his '97 12v HAS REAL POWER.

OH, the reference to the "the advice of a very experienced Cummins guy" that wisely advised putting in a p pumper 12v in the first place -- he collaborates with the engineers that designs the Smarty programmers.
Old 01-31-2011, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kmoree2141
Get rid of the 4.10 gears to much strain on engine ..............
4:10 gears actually put less stress on the engine.
Old 03-16-2011, 11:01 PM
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I'm just guessing here, but I think he means highway RPM for strain. Did you swap a HO 24 valve? Friend of mine has a 2001 HO 3/4 ton 4x4 and his mileage is only a bit better than a gasser. I have a 2001 SO 1ton Dually 4x4 with a flatbed that just kills any aerodynamics to my truck and I get 15 mpg. driving it hard locally and up to 24 mpg driven VERY carefully on the highway. Usually 20-22 mpg. I checked it out when I first got my truck and it's not 4.10's. [EDITED: Both our trucks have the higher gears too. I probably have the 3.55's] The higher compression, different turbo, different VP44, etc. make a big difference in fuel economy and power. His will out tow mine up a hill under load, but I see the better mpg's. I did do a FASS 150/150 and 1/2 in fuel line from tank sump (installed a billet sump at bottom of tank) to injector pump. My top RMP has increased as well as some fuel economy. My original mileage information originally posted were in stock form. I also installed an AFE Brute Force HD air system on it and that has helped TREMENDOUSLY with turbo spool up. It used to be BAAAAAAD between 2-3-4 gear around town. Ghostrider hope we haven't hijacked you thread with things you don't want to know. Probably not since this may help you make your decision. On the 12v. It's simple. 12volts to fuel shutoff. Fuel line. and only a few other things you would have to do with either engine. Exhaust, intercooler, etc.
Old 03-23-2011, 11:06 AM
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An automatic tranny is different between diesel and V-10.
The oil pump in the diesel auto transmission is designed to move more oil at lower rpms than the V-10 one is.
There is also a difference in the governor weighting in the transmission.

As far as 4.10s vs 3.54s, if you plan to do any hauling above 15,000 pounds with a manual trans, mileagewise the 4.10s will do better.

Empty and just dorking around, the 3.54s may be slightly better.

You also need to keep in mind TIRE SIZE, a bigger tire will drop RPMS some, but you also drop out of the torque range of the engine.
4.10s will help alleviate that possibility.

Mark.
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