I'm new to the game...
#16
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Originally Posted by J10Mike
That is a great looking crew cab and will be a great project. On the steering, I used the steering riser block as already suggested. Kept the drag link level and no steering issues what so ever.
On my lift, went with Rough Country, 4 inch. And, it's ROUGH.
I'll be watching this thread.
Attached pic is of my front D60 after rebuild and locker install showing the steering riser block, I believe 2.5 inches.
On my lift, went with Rough Country, 4 inch. And, it's ROUGH.
I'll be watching this thread.
Attached pic is of my front D60 after rebuild and locker install showing the steering riser block, I believe 2.5 inches.
#17
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Not necessarily. I just went into the garage to measure the riser block. It's 2.5 inches and I have a 4 inch lift. If going more than 4 inches, a taller riser block may be in order. For the rear lift, if you can swing it, do a rear spring lift as well. Don't double up on the blocks.
#19
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Yes double stacked blocks in the rear is bad.
Get the right rear lift springs when ordering the kit.
Yes just a steering block should be fine for a 4 inch lift.
A 2.5 inch or the 4 inch block should help a lot and be all you need.
Get the right rear lift springs when ordering the kit.
Yes just a steering block should be fine for a 4 inch lift.
A 2.5 inch or the 4 inch block should help a lot and be all you need.
#20
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Yeah I've found front and rear springs. Not doing blocks. Both front and rear are in need, the fronts are flat as an arrow. Going with new shocks, 4 lift springs front and rear. I guess steering block really probably is determined after lift install?
#21
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I don't have a block on my '90 with a 2.5 inch lift, but I do run a dropped pitman arm on my CTD RamCharger with a 4" lift. A couple of miles behind the wheel will let you know what you will need to do. I have a steering stabilizer on all my solid axle stuff, since the Pennsyltucky Dept of Transportation likes to be keep most of the highways full of potholes and 12 inch bridge joints.
#22
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I don't have a block on my '90 with a 2.5 inch lift, but I do run a dropped pitman arm on my CTD RamCharger with a 4" lift. A couple of miles behind the wheel will let you know what you will need to do. I have a steering stabilizer on all my solid axle stuff, since the Pennsyltucky Dept of Transportation likes to be keep most of the highways full of potholes and 12 inch bridge joints.
#23
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Now the wait begins. Skyjacker kit should be here tomorrow and energy suspension cab bushings on the way and I gotta work next weekend. Skyjacker got me jacked up. Want to get started. I'll post some pics along the way and probably a question or two. Speaking of questions. Cab bushings don't come with bolts. Any suggestions beings the stock will seized in for sure...
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#26
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Cab bushings usually spin right out, unless it s a real rust buggy. Your crew looks pretty clean, so I would think you should have some luck..
#27
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A little help? I'm going to install a 4" lift and I am curious if I can use stock length U-bolts for a Dana 60 beings I'm using springs and not lift blocks. I pieced my kit together for CTD install and forgot to order u-bolts. Always something. Thanks in advance!
#29
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BHD is correct.
Stock length U-bolts will be perfect.
Stock length U-bolts will be perfect.
#30
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Thanks guys for the info. Found out this morning and finding some threads last night that a truck shop local can make me some ubolts. Going to check it out today. Was hoping to get started if we don't float away. Big MO been getting pounded with rain and I will have to do some decent mudding to get it out of barn and into shop, threw my dads yard lol. Thanks again and when I start ripping it apart I'll take some pics