I'm new to the game...
 

I'm starting a project of putting a 1991 5.9 non-intercooled 12v with an A518 trans 4x4 with NP205 in my 1978 Dodge W200 crew cab. I've read a lot of post around and on here and was wondering if anyone that had done this or something close to share their most informative threads or links. Any help appreciated. My son and I first project.

Nice truck. Welcome to the club!

Plenty of threads here on crew cab builds.
Grab a beer, search "crew cab" under the 1st gen section and read away for hours.

Just one question. Was the transmission pulled out of the same truck as the 12V?
I ask because '91.0 non intercooled 12Vs had a NON over drive 727 auto behind them.
The '91.5-'93 intercooled 12Vs had the over driven A-518 set up.

Great looking crew cab.

Thanks. The engine and trans that I have, was used in a suburban build and was 2wd used to pull a stock car. I got it on trade for an Ar-15. Then traded a dirt bike for a A518 with 4x4 tail housing and Np205 freshly rebuilt on both, mounts coolers etc. out of a 93 Dodge. I hope I can put this puzzle together. I've own a bike shop build bikes and working on Harleys for 15 plus years. This is a first for me.

I grab a beer and stare at mine for hours trying to "will" it together.


Azzie, the devil is in the details with these trucks. You can make it as nice or as hack as you want, and it will probably still work well.

I've been trying the Jedi mind trick with no luck. I'm trying to put a game plan together with I know only half a team. Trying to link the bug pieces together will be my problem. Lol

Having some troubles figuring out some suspension. Has anyone else had trouble getting answers out of skyjacker? It takes 4-5 days to get a response and when I did it was vague and then gave me a part number that doesn't come up on their site. When I asked for a breakdown of the kit they sent an email back 5 days later telling me to just contact a dealer and ask them. Closes dealer, at least as of dealer locator, is 125 miles away. Tried calling 3 times and it just rings and rings after the voice prompt. About to move on. Any suggestions would help. TIA

I can't say I've ever dealt with them directly. I use their website for part reference and then order from Summit Racing.

I have actually found it cheaper but just want to double check figment due to putting Cummins rated springs in a 1978. I spent about 2 hours looking up parts for my 1978 w200 and 1991 w250 and crossed individual numbers against both to make sure the number I have will work. Auto anything saved me 300$ total. 4 inch lift with pitman arm, brake line, dual steering stabilizer, etc. Hope it works. Lol

I have used National Tire and Wheel before when ordering SkyJacker suspensions.

You could save your self a lot of $$ and not order the dual steering unit, brake lines and pitman arm as none of that stuff is really needed.

It you end up needing a little help with the steering angle, just buy a 3 / 4 inch Dana 60 steering block spacer for about $75 and be done wth it.
As far as the center brake line being too short I just spin the bracket downwards 90* and bend the metal hard line above it a tiny bit and it all works great.
The steering stabilizer is just extra fluff I don't feel is needed.

3/4" spacer eh? I've only encountered the 2" steering block. My own fix for steering correction was push the axle forward about 1/2" with a zero-rate from ORD... centered the steering wheel again. The steering wont get anything else till its time for crossover.

I went with the basic Dana 44 stabilizer and just 'coaxed' the ubolts around the fatter axle tube. I did your trick on the brake line.

Sorry that was confusing. I meant a 3 OR 4 inch spacer, but I have seen 2 1/2 inch spacers as well.

The zero rate will not address the bump steer you get from the un level drag link, it will make it worse.
The steering block spacer will level the drag link helping the bump steer out AND center the steering wheel again.

I get what you're saying... the angulation should make bumpsteer worse. But so far... at sagged-stock, 2" lift, and now nearly 4" lift... I haven't been able to detect any negative steering effects. :confused:

That is a great looking crew cab and will be a great project. On the steering, I used the steering riser block as already suggested. Kept the drag link level and no steering issues what so ever.

On my lift, went with Rough Country, 4 inch. And, it's ROUGH.

I'll be watching this thread.

Attached pic is of my front D60 after rebuild and locker install showing the steering riser block, I believe 2.5 inches.

I'll check National Tire out. So no pitman arm just do the lift block? I won't need drag link either? I can manipulate the brake line I get you there. Just want to make sure I get everything so I can get it back off my rack if needed.