73CrewCab

I really wanted to upgrade to the 2nd gen rear leafs, with a shackle flip and front hanger drop (about 8" longer leafs), but I'm running out of time and need to get this truck back on the road. So far, I'm on week 4 since I started this conversion, and I've done everything myself, except having my wife work the floor jack as I mocked up the fuel tank. I wish I knew someone with fab skills that could help me, but so far so good for a 1 man project. All of this diesel and full sized truck stuff is new to me...I come from the world of 50's VW's...

saggonwaggon91

Looking good and in good time for it being a 1 man show...

oliver foster

Good looking work and at least the dog looks very happy with it.

deere country

I have bought several trucks from the southwest portion of the us, and they generally have a second fuel tank that was mounted in place of the rear tire. It's an ad on tank that someone in California was building for the first gen trucks when they weren't very old. I cannot remember the groups name or exact location just that they came from CA somewhere.

The general rule with driveshaft length is anything beyond 48" needs a hanger bearing or a hanger bearing every 48" of driveshaft length.

73CrewCab

I called Inland Empire Driveline (about 8 miles from me). They told me that they can build a one piece driveshaft up to 84" or 88", but it ain't cheap. Mine will be roughly 70" from U-joint to U-joint. With 1410's, and a new slip yoke, they said worst case about $750. I started to think about 2 piece, but then I have to build a new cross member, buy and setup a carrier bearing, which really won't save me much money in the long run.

oliver foster

I have many 2nd gen reg cab long bed one piece rear driveshaft that are 55 - 60 inches long, u-joint to U-joint.
The longer ex-cab long beds do use a two piece driveshaft.

73CrewCab

Rear axle is in, now I can get exact shaft measurements

73CrewCab

I'm pretty happy with the track width

73CrewCab

I am aware of this. I just think it would be a lot less work and about the same amount of money to do a 1 piece like the newer Maga Cabs have

73CrewCab

Today I scored a used 24V stock exhaust for $45 from my buddy Craig and his list...hopefully I can make some of this work until the budget allows for a proper 4" from the turbo back.

patdaly

Whoa.

I would also check out Midwest Driveshaft. I know Inland Empire has a good rep, but so does Midwest ( they build a lot of race car shafts ).

Even if you go to their gonzo 5" Aluminum shaft the price is like $ 485 bucks complete.

Midwest Driveshaft, Driveshaft Repair, and Axels Driveshaft Balancing Steel and Aluminum

Worth at least talking to them.

73CrewCab

WOW! Thank you for the info and the link! As I said, this truck (and Cummins) stuff is all new territory for me, so I don't know where to go, who to ask or which part is best/necessary yet. I'm still learning. I'll give them a jingle tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.

BHD

What's your plan for the dash? Keep it 70's or upgrade to the all plastic later style? I like the simplicity and the style of the older stuff but the wiring has much to be desired.

73CrewCab

I plan on keeping the stock 73 dash, but I will eventually be making a new gauge panel and running aftermarket gauges. I too like the earlier dash better, than the newer dash. I have a complete new universal wiring harness, which I'll be installing within the next few weeks.

BHD

Where did you source that?

I prefer the old seventies metal dash, but I really want A/C, which my donor truck has. The plastic dash leaves much to be desired but I am not sure if I can make the AC work with the older style. I need to educate myself quickly!