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so before I stab the cummins into the crew cab I am rebuilding the front end on the 1983 d350. I have upgraded all the suspension and steering parts to 1993 (diesel) products and ran into a small snag.
Everything fits its except the diesel outer tiered ends will not fit into the gas steering knuckles.
I am left with 3 options.
1-tear it back down and use the knuckles from the donor truck after I get them off the donor truck
2-send back the diesel tie rods and order the gas ones for the correct year.
3- drill out the knuckle to accept the larger tie rod end.
Not number 3 unless you're a machinist by trade, or have one you trust can,produce the proper taper in the knuckle end. Problem I would,think, is the enlargened hole would exceed the design tolerances of the knuckle.
It has been slow going I have rebuilt the front end with all of the diesel front end parts and all new moog suspension parts It is back together now All I have to do is yank the 360 and stab in the cummins and getrag Trying to find time in my schedule to get it done
I finally started the no going back step of my cummins swap. I pulled the old 360 and tranny out. And started the conversion process.
Made some room in a buddies shop where the conversion will begin. Pulled the fenders and the entire front end for ease of working. Got the motor and tranny out. Now the fun begins
Couple questions which have come up for those of you who have done a crew cab conversion
1) it looks like I need a diesel brake booster bc the shaft is narrower where it connects to the pedal correct?
2) what is the best way to go about converting the fuel system from gas to diesel? Just swap I diesel sending unit? Does anyone have a recommendation on type of fuel lines? What about a sump? Would I still need a sending unit?
I have seen the gasser brake boosters used, so I know it can happen.
As far as converting the fuel system.
Drop tank [easier but can be done in place], drain gas, clean [if you want]. refill with diesel and reinstall with a diesel sending unit.
Prime lines and start the motor.
You can use a bottom of the tank sump, but leaks concerns have always kept me from using this option. Drilling a hole in the bottom of a fuel tank, just seems dumb to me.
I order diesel rated fuel line from Geno's Garage usually for my projects. Cut to fit and install.
Couple questions which have come up for those of you who have done a crew cab conversion
1) it looks like I need a diesel brake booster bc the shaft is narrower where it connects to the pedal correct?
2) what is the best way to go about converting the fuel system from gas to diesel? Just swap I diesel sending unit? Does anyone have a recommendation on type of fuel lines? What about a sump? Would I still need a sending unit?
Thanks
I used the diesel brake booster because I had one from the donor and it didn't leak, also if Dodge made it different from the gasser, its different for a reason. Maybe the vac pump on the Cummins isn't as efficient as the gas engine vacuum? That is my 2 cents.
When I did my RamCharger conversion I did exactly like Oliver suggested. Drop the tank, clean, swap senders, install. When I built the FireWagon, I used the gasser sender that had a return port.
1) it looks like I need a diesel brake booster bc the shaft is narrower where it connects to the pedal correct?
Thanks
Quite sure its a year thing... a '90 D250 (cummins) booster fit directly on a '90 ramcharger pedal. On my '77 W300 the booster rod is fatter where it connects to the pedal.
Bed off to drop the tank This is what my gas sending unit looks like. Will the diesel one fit in? I have it ordered for pick up at the parts store tomorrow. I think it is gonna be too small. Just about to put the engine in. They sent me the wrong motor mounts.
update on conversion. So I ended up using the stock fuel tank and stock gas sending unit it had a return on it. I replaced the fuel lines with marine grade diesel fuel lines and installed a high volume low pressure lift pump from the hungry diesel for reliability.
The truck is going to be as mechanical as possible deleting the computer. I will be retaining the original 1983 wiring harness.
I got it fired off for the first time today and it ran great. I do have an injection pump leak and a leak at the fuel filter. The fuel filter. It is a new filter. Could there be a bad rubber seal at the top. Any experience with this?
03-25-2018, 08:40 AM
