csramsey640

After finding minimal information on this swap, I will post my progress, pictures and problems with this swap.

Background: While driving home from Pittsburgh, truck started an engine tick. I quickly pulled over and checked the oil. None on the stick! I look the truck over regularly and had no external leaks. I got a ride into town and filled it with oil. When I restarted, tick went away and I continued home...well about 5 minutes later it sent #6 rod through the cam, out the block, and threw the starter. The rod was actually laying on the road! (long story short-broken ring- and must have slowly starved itself of oil little by little. After no real luck finding a decent priced CR, I decided on a 12 valve swap. my 12 valve is from a 94 donor.

Engine Mounting: Keep the drivers side frame mount and drivers side 12valve mount, its direct. I mated to a nv5600. Used the 5600 flywheel, but needed to use 8 , 3/8" bolts for the bellhousing as the CR uses metric thread. The 12valve adapter plate worked fine with the 5600.

I cut the pass side frame mount off of the truck, but retained the 12valve pass side mount. Since the 12valve is 20.5" munt bolt to mount bolt you will need to figure this into consideration as the CR mount to mount is 19.75"

I had a piece of 1/4 bent in a U 4" by 4" by 4" deep and slotted at 2 7/8" Bolted to engine mount, leveled the engine and welded to the frame.

The engine crossmember must be lowered. I mocked the engine up and measured but I will provide measurements for everyone so they can cut and mock without yanking the engine back out. I cut with a recip saw, welded 3" by 3" plate on the ends, and lowered it about 2.5" to clear the bottom of the oil pan. Rewelded, braced and good as new.

Power Steering: Use a box from 97-98 12valve with hydro boost. The pressure line is a direct thread in to the back, but instead of the T set up on the CR pump, both will have to be plumbed separate. The small line is a direct clamp on, and the large line, we just adapted from 5/8 to 3/8 and on it went.

Vacuum port. Since the 94 used vacuum assist, there is a port left unused. Since I had a small K&N I just used it, but I don't see why it couldn't be plugged off.

Throttle Pedal: To the left of the hydroboost you will see a rubber grommet. This makes a perfect location for the new throttle cable. I used a ground oud fender washer, and snapped the cable to it, and tacked to the firewall. The stock cable cover from a 1994 is too long, so about 3" of the plastic must be removed. This is a bear as it has steel supports all around it. Don't cut the cable! On the inside, I removed the Electronic throttle pedal, but left the black plastic bracket in place. Made a simple pivot for the 94 pedal, and welded the new pivot to the 05 bracket. Bend the pedal just a hair, and looks factory and works great!

Exhaust: I opted for the CR Exhaust manifold. The reason is because of simplicity. 1, turbo will bolt direct to the down pipe, 2. the air box is simple enough, and 3. the air-to air will go back in. However, the CR exhaust ports are round and the 12 valve is square. I purchased a good cutting bit for my die grinder, traced around the old gaskets and ported the CR exhaust manifold to the 12valve gasket. Plenty of meat left and I was happy with the result.

Intake Elbow: Had to use the 12 valve intake horn because the CR one will not go on with the HydroBoost setup.


I will update more as completed. Thanks for your time

NJTman

Dude,

Your pix SUCK !


I can't see them at all because they're covered with grey background and black letters.


Geesh ! Got me all excited.... and let me down...


What are you, my wife ????

patdaly

NJT, now give him time, I am sure he won't let us dummies who need pictures to visualize it down.........

csramsey640

Sorry folks camera is not cooperating. We have ran into a few issues, and ill share these.

Alternator. Since I am not going to run the CR crank sensor setup, I needed a way to control the Alternator. Google Ford External Voltage regulator on 12v cummins, and its pretty straight forward. I used one from a pre-1978 f150, with the A,I,S,F terminals.

I-not used
A-goes to + battery cable on Alternator
S-goes to ignition switch, or key on power
F-goes to one of the small posts on the alternator (either one)

Be sure to unhook the old wires, and take the remaining smaller post and hook it to the ground on the alternator.

Tach. I opted for a Autometer Diesel Tach which runs off the Alternator.

The lower radiator hose was shortened a few inches and we just used a straight connector.

The upper hose is too short and hits the oil fill tube, so we just used a longer flex hose.

rich

you should have to do anything t the crossmember. we didnt in my 03 and had to make the motor mount bracket for the drivers side..

csramsey640

Im sure there may be a few different methods. In mine we used the stock 94 12v engine mounts, left the drivers side frame mount in the truck and fabbed a new pass side frame mount. With this there was absolutely no way to do it without cutting the crossmember because the engine sat on the oil pan and wasn't in the mount yet.

Gen414

Well, what I can tell you both is, if you are talking about a 2WD or 4WD truck, THAT is where the crossmember may or may not work. Since the crossmembers on 2WD trucks ARE different than 4WD, that could be where one of you guys had to cut crossmember, and the other did not.
Again, all depends on 2WD or 4WD when doing swaps.