Need 12v tuning help
Need 12v tuning help
Well I finally got some good injectors in the truck (435s). Runs awesome but there is a crap load of smoke and it wont clear at 70psi. Otherwise I love how the truck drives. Egts climb faster than the speedo. I am looking for just max power for a quarter mile run. Is there a good rule of thumb for the amount of smoke? Not going to access to a dyno for a while. Do I back the fuel off of just run or just leave it. I am trying to break into the 12s with 38s on.
Thanks
Thanks
Something doesn't seem right. I've got a similar setup but with laser cut DV's and the pump turned up. I just upgraded to the HTB2 64/14 from a 62/12 and it will clear the smoke. Have you checked your air filter or is there anything blocking the intercooler? Just some thoughts.
Paul
Paul
Timing has alot to do with clearing up smoke. Washer thickness can help also to get the spray in the right part of the bowl in the piston. If you happen to be spraying part of the way out of the bowl temps and smoke will be bad.
Well my after my head being milled twice and the marine hg compensating for that. I am just about at stock compression. The washers I used are the ones that Chuck at NewEra diesel gave me.
Something doesn't seem right. I've got a similar setup but with laser cut DV's and the pump turned up. I just upgraded to the HTB2 64/14 from a 62/12 and it will clear the smoke. Have you checked your air filter or is there anything blocking the intercooler? Just some thoughts.
Paul
Paul
Just curious, have you ran that setup @ 16 degrees or have you always ran it at your current degree of timing?
the marine head gasket 20 over did lower your compression. the compression would have stayed stock if you milled 20k off the block.
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I was at 17 to 18 degrees with the 62/12 and the same set up. With hard accelerations and at truck pulls my temps were way up. The 62/12 would clear things but didn't have room to breath on top. I worked my way up to 21.5 a little at a time with a truck pull in between each adjustment. Never really saw any decrease in temp but the truck ran smoother at 2000 - 2200 rpm. I haven't backed down on the timing since putting in the 64/14 so can't compare. I did a hard rolling acceleration just last night and couldn't get the temps to exceed 1150 so was very happy. Before the 64/14 I would have spiked easily at 1400 - 1500. I have the turbo wasted at 40 to prevent too much cylinder pressure. I have a stock HG and studs and run a proguard 7 filter. Head work is my next project.
Paul
Satburn:
I was at 17 to 18 degrees with the 62/12 and the same set up. With hard accelerations and at truck pulls my temps were way up. The 62/12 would clear things but didn't have room to breath on top. I worked my way up to 21.5 a little at a time with a truck pull in between each adjustment. Never really saw any decrease in temp but the truck ran smoother at 2000 - 2200 rpm. I haven't backed down on the timing since putting in the 64/14 so can't compare. I did a hard rolling acceleration just last night and couldn't get the temps to exceed 1150 so was very happy. Before the 64/14 I would have spiked easily at 1400 - 1500. I have the turbo wasted at 40 to prevent too much cylinder pressure. I have a stock HG and studs and run a proguard 7 filter. Head work is my next project.
Paul
I was at 17 to 18 degrees with the 62/12 and the same set up. With hard accelerations and at truck pulls my temps were way up. The 62/12 would clear things but didn't have room to breath on top. I worked my way up to 21.5 a little at a time with a truck pull in between each adjustment. Never really saw any decrease in temp but the truck ran smoother at 2000 - 2200 rpm. I haven't backed down on the timing since putting in the 64/14 so can't compare. I did a hard rolling acceleration just last night and couldn't get the temps to exceed 1150 so was very happy. Before the 64/14 I would have spiked easily at 1400 - 1500. I have the turbo wasted at 40 to prevent too much cylinder pressure. I have a stock HG and studs and run a proguard 7 filter. Head work is my next project.
Paul
satburn
ddp4's are prolly the same size as the 435's (5@14) and even with 23* timing and 50 psi boost from a 66mm charger mine wont come close to clearing fuel. But All I have is a marine gasket and studs and it has been holding fine for several months and lots of hard runs. With your fuel and rpm's you should try the low to middle 20's (21-25) It will run much better.
ddp4's are prolly the same size as the 435's (5@14) and even with 23* timing and 50 psi boost from a 66mm charger mine wont come close to clearing fuel. But All I have is a marine gasket and studs and it has been holding fine for several months and lots of hard runs. With your fuel and rpm's you should try the low to middle 20's (21-25) It will run much better.
satburn
ddp4's are prolly the same size as the 435's (5@14) and even with 23* timing and 50 psi boost from a 66mm charger mine wont come close to clearing fuel. But All I have is a marine gasket and studs and it has been holding fine for several months and lots of hard runs. With your fuel and rpm's you should try the low to middle 20's (21-25) It will run much better.
ddp4's are prolly the same size as the 435's (5@14) and even with 23* timing and 50 psi boost from a 66mm charger mine wont come close to clearing fuel. But All I have is a marine gasket and studs and it has been holding fine for several months and lots of hard runs. With your fuel and rpm's you should try the low to middle 20's (21-25) It will run much better.
Give it a timing bump and go for a drive. Wish I could spend the day over @ John's and due a little dyno tuning, that would certainly help in finding the "sweet spot".
I tried three different timing changes before settling on 19.5. Everytime I bumped the timing it seemed to run better and clear up the smoke a little more. I hate to go anymore cause I do still tow kinda heavy every now and then.
I have done some reading on timing that say if you dont have stock compression like my setup, timing is affected. Right now I am running about 7mm of plunger lift , I am assuming around 24ish degrees of timing. Any info?
Jambbii:
Thinking about physics and intuition it would stand to reason that if you lower the compression and don't add more air/fuel it will take longer for the piston to compress the air/fuel mixture to ignite (basics of diesel engines). This delay would equate to retarding the timing. Two ways to over come this would be to 1) add more air/fuel to precompress the cylinder gases or 2) advance the timing. It seems that one of the main reasons an oversized HG is used is to lower compression to be able to add more fuel without necessarily changing the timing. That all said this is just my simple understanding of things and may be completely off base or could be reasonably close. I'd like to hear from others that may have better science to back it up.
Thinking about physics and intuition it would stand to reason that if you lower the compression and don't add more air/fuel it will take longer for the piston to compress the air/fuel mixture to ignite (basics of diesel engines). This delay would equate to retarding the timing. Two ways to over come this would be to 1) add more air/fuel to precompress the cylinder gases or 2) advance the timing. It seems that one of the main reasons an oversized HG is used is to lower compression to be able to add more fuel without necessarily changing the timing. That all said this is just my simple understanding of things and may be completely off base or could be reasonably close. I'd like to hear from others that may have better science to back it up.



