turning up 60 series
 

We have a 99 Century with a Detroit with two stickers, one says 360HP, the other 430HP. I figure that with the particular internals it's good for 430. I've heard of sections of wiring harness that lie to the computer about fuel temp and manifold pressure and such for Cat engines, anyone know if they can be had for Detroits, too?

Primary use is hauling grain, 80,000 gross is a light load on these, we're allowed 92,000 during harvest.

The higher rating is enabled with the cruise control on and set. There is a way to trick the ecm but I have never done it. Hopefully Luke will see this thread and jump in, he is the resident Detroit expert.

Yep, you can put a resistor in the fuel temp sensor. drill out the R80 restrictor fitting on the back of the head (return) 2 or 3 drill sizes. Not anymore, then you hurt more than help. set the injector calibration codes to 75. thats about all you can do from your end. Or hopefully get an uprate to 515 plus those upgrades. or I've got a DDEC IV ECM in my garage with a 575hp program in it. or pittsburg power box will get you whatever you need, or you can pay PDI about $3000 to write any fuel map you want in it.

I hate split rate programs. thats got to be a 12.7 engine, you can honk on them pretty good. I knew a guy putting 750 down with one just like that in an older long nose KW. pulls super B. But marine injectors and camshaft, and upsized the turbo.

I was thinking of checking into the DDEC programming to be able to go into it myself. I haven't seen a price on that yet though.

I might have should have mentioned, this is in a factory reconfigured Century daycab. I found a build sheet sticker under a dash panel, it has 430 on it and is stuck over another one.

The boss wouldn't put parts in it, but I'm sure I could get away with the programming and a few tricks.

If I understand you right, I'd be drilling out the orifice in the return line?

Yep. It's the restricted fitting in the return. In the head. It's an .080" orifice. The fitting is marked R80 its the 90* brass. Put a couple drill sizes up and it will make you horsepower. Open it up too much and you'll have low fuel pressure issues. More is NOT better, in this case.

Makes no sense to me, but that wouldn't be the first time.

I pulled the muffler Friday and stuck a piece of stack with a curve in the top in the pipe to demonstrate how the location and shape of the outlet can direct sound away from the cab. I was told to go ahead and order a straight pipe for it this week, even though, not thinking, I hit the jakes while it was pointed at the boss's dad. I got tired of the rotted out muffler echoing through the cab.

I got the stack on the truck and it seems to to have sore backside to it, especially around 12-1400 RPM.

Any idea where how much of a resister to put in the fuel temp sensor line and where to find it?

Normally it only takes a tech a few minutes to reflash the computer to the higher rating & at that time ne can also remove the progressive rpm for low speed shifting.

Unfortunately, it's over an hour drive to the nearest shop, and it would be a single-purpose trip. It will out-pull the 400 N14 in the other truck, if I had money I'd call Pittsburg Diesel Power and get their stuff for it.