We are getting a 95 freightshaker at work with an N14 at 435 HP and a 10 speed, and the boss thinks it might need a little more power. We figure it's not hard to turn these up a little, just need to know how.

 

The boss said something to me about turning this up at the pump, I didn't realize that it's an electronic engine til the FNG told me about it. It's a N14 Select. Any easy tricks?

 

The only way to turn it up is to reprogram the computer. I have the same motor in my tanker. Good & dependable I have over a million miles on it but hauling 105,500 lbs shes no speed demond pulling the hills we have here in oregon.

 

I was afraid of that. It'll see 100,000 now and again with the deep hopper on it. But it's a little flatter around here than out there.

 

I drove 1 years ago, took it to a local shop and had then turn it up. Not a big deal at all, just hook up the lap top click a few buttons. Good luck

 

Can't turn it up. It ran about 3 hours the day they looked at it, then made it a half hour toward home when the ECM fried. Wasn't even good for a core at the rebuilder's. It was actually set at 400 HP and that's the max that Cummins says the internals are good for.

 

Well that sucks! Did the ECM fry because of something the shop did or was it an existing problem?

 

Probably just its time. Could be why it was traded in also. Supposedly the previous owner needed a tax write-off and traded it in, but you know how salesman are. Every car was driven to the grocery store by grandma and every truck was a baby that always got parked inside and never ran overweight.

 

Search Pittsburgh Power they have a box that adds about 175hp it costs about 2,700 If I recall right.

 

Sounds like a good time to get a ecm from PDI for it.

 

I wish. I can't convince the boss and our mechanic (who has some experience hauling equipment but not a lot of seat time in trucks) that the brakes need attention. If you have 50 PSI in your service line (bobtailed) with the brakes adjusted, the drives should be trying to swap ends with the steers, but it finally acts like you've just touched the pedal at that point.

There is a new engine harness sitting in the shop for it. I guess they used some higher-quality parts on the last ECM rebuild.

 

need to stop first before you go fast!!!!!!!!

 

No kidding!

I was thinking of getting a couple fittings to put between the air lines and the brake chambers, and seeing if we were getting the same air to all 6 brakes, but I don't know if the steers and drives should get the same air, and if the pressure at the chambers should be the same as at the "apply" gauge in the dash.

It's a 95 FLD. The hopper it pulls is a 96 and I had to adjust the brakes at least once a week, tractor brakes never needed it. And when you set the parking brakes, it 1) won't dump the air out of the trailer supply line, and 2), dumps air out of the dash somewhere if you still have your foot on the pedal.

I've driven trucks from the 70s, 80s, and 90s, and this is the only one I have had do that trick.

 

scot

hook your supply and service lines together, then punch both buttons, and bobtail around, see how it stops then.

mid 90's, we had a bunch of t800's, where if you didn't hook the lines together, you basically had no back brakes. never looked further into the problem, too busy working, but this one just tweaked the memory bank a bit

 

Its a proportional control that helps with locking up the drives when bobtailing. Some of them are just ridiculous though. Sounds like you have one of them.