NE frmhnd

I just went to work for a guy that's got a frightshaker daycab with a 470 in it. I forgot how nice they pull and how broad the powerband is. Anyhow, it idles rough and the jakes don't really work that well. How hard is it to set the lash in them? Need any special tools? Anyone have the specs?
Thanks

1-5-3-6-2-4

you need injector height tools. to set the injectors. if you can give me the serial number I can tell you the injector height spec. the lash is .008 intake, and either .020" or .026" exhaust. depends on what valves are in it.

you can see these specs on the valve cover sticker. but theres no saying the valve cover hasn;t been replaced at some point. the serial number and model number are on the stamp pad on the driverside of the block. in the middle up near the top. depending on the rust situation where you run, you might need some scotchbrite and wd40 and scrub it down too read the stamping.

SN# will look something like 06R0754988 but your numbers will obviously be different.


pull the codes. you can get flash codes by holding down the engine override button for a few seconds. flash code 25 is the code for no codes. might have injector harness issues/rub throughs. or the injectors might be shot. have to pull them and bench test. might need jake solenoids or need jakes rebuilt. have to manually test them to isolate the problem.

NE frmhnd

There's no telling, this is a factory reconfigured daycab. I guess the guys on the line didn't think that a daycab needs a dome light, or that the oil cooler should have coolant circulating when you shut the heat valves off. I think it's legible though.

Can the jake solenoids be tested on the truck? It works great til the engine gets good and warm, then acts like only two of the three stages are kicking in.

I'm thinking it might need injectors. It almost has a lope, like one or two are dumping more fuel in than they should, but only part of the time.

I'll check for codes in the morning. It's been about six years since I ran a freightshaker and a Detroit. The valve lash is pretty simple and easy then? I might do that and check the jake solenoids once winter gets here if I have some time. I'm pushing it fairly hard grossing 90K trying to keep up with the combine and other trucks.

1-5-3-6-2-4

you can manually stroke the jakes with the valve cover off and the engine running. that will eliminate the electronics of the solenoid. so if all kick on fine manually, then replace the solenoids. they're like $11 each. if theres no engine brake action when stroking manually then have to inspect the jake heads for broken springs, missing plugs... etc. when you yard them to do the valves is ideal time to inspect.

with Detroit software DDDL you can check injector response times, and run cylinder cutouts. thats a good place to start. and if you have a ship pile of logged codes. you'll be better off to be someone to hookup to the computer and print the code list. as DDDL will give you the # of occurrences, beginning and end times. and other useful information.

NE frmhnd

The boss said that they have to stick with Detroit or Cummins engines down here, the Case dealer in McCook will work on anything as long as you don't ask them to do anything with the Cat motor in it, and it's another 70 miles up to North Platte to the nearest Cat dealer.

I know the computers will tell you a lot. The conditions have to be replicated in the shop for it to do it, too, though. Like a C-15 that won't shut the engine fan off when the oil is cool but the water is up to temp. It's a pressure switch in the A/C system, but in the shop it doesn't show, because by the time they get the water up to temp, the oil is hot, too.

1-5-3-6-2-4

ya I'm just a stupid detroit mechanic, I don't know anything about cat.
there doesn't have to be any conditions to run an injector cutout test and solenoid response test. sure to replicate your complaint, but not to run those tests. you actually want it at operating temp to do cut outs.

I've got DDDL 7.0 reprogramming software on my laptop in my service truck. I can do all that for you. in about 10 minutes. but you're a little far away for a day trip I guess.

NE frmhnd

Yeah. I got a code 43 out of it today.

I think the problem with the jakes is the solenoids. Like i said, it works fine til things get warmed up good.

The rough idle can be stopped by blipping the throttle a couple times really quick. But on occasion it shuts itself down while idling.

1-5-3-6-2-4

flash code 43 is coolant level low.

run the injector tests see what they say. then pull the valve cover replace the jake solenoids while the jakes are out, check the springs while you're there. yard the injectors and bench test them. do a tuneup when they/ or new injectors go back in.

NE frmhnd

Do the jakes have to come out to do the solenoids? I ran a couple loads with the other truck yesterday and it doesn't have near the @$$ this one does, so I think new solenoids and it'll be good to go.

1-5-3-6-2-4

oh no jakes don't have to come out. super easy access right on top after you yard the valve cover. pull the jake wire off. use the appropriate socket on the top of the solenoid. make sure you get the black squarecut oring out of the bottom of the hole. the new solenoid will have a new oring it goes on the bottom you'll see how it works out. torque it down to whatever it says on the top. 15ftlb IIRC. reattach the wire, good to go.


is it a columbia? with a 1 piece valvecover? you have to pull the driptray center section, get the cover uptilted to the driverside. then slide it out easy. the gasket is reusable if its black. non-reusable if its grey. when you go to reinstall the cover you must put some grey silicon at the joints on either side of cam cap #1 and #7 or it will leak. and if you roll the gasket on reinstall it will leak.

NE frmhnd

It's a Century, same thing. Not sure if it's a 112 or 120. Not sure if I will do it or if it will go to the shop. They don't work on too much themselves.