Started Painting engine today,,, some pics
02-22-2010, 02:52 PM
#31
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Nice stuff buddy. Whats type of yellow is it? Looks good. It should look pretty sharp. You going to power coat the compressor/turbine housings on the turbo. I think springs is coming soon.
but the parts list sounds impressive. It'll be interesting to see how it runs.
02-22-2010, 11:48 PM
#37
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Looks great Kevin...
Did you ever consider the new Glacier Diesel raised intake plenum?
http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...f_id=0307-ABIP
No dyno numbers yet on it (that I can find) just lower EGT's while towing.
It's any easy bolt on & nice looking at the least...
02-23-2010, 09:08 AM
#38
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Kev, you already have the heater grid delete? Really that all you would gain by going to that plate. You could find/get a local machine shop to make a spacer. Its worth a few extra ponies at full spool but she's a beast to start.
but she's a beast to start.
02-23-2010, 12:23 PM
#39
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I talked to Richard about it, and he was saying that on my truck it probably would only be bling. He said that the gains are pretty much lost after about 700 hp. If I did add that I would have redesign my crossover pipe again from the turbo. It has a slight lift to it, which would change all the geometry
02-23-2010, 03:21 PM
#40
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I talked to Richard about it, and he was saying that on my truck it probably would only be bling. He said that the gains are pretty much lost after about 700 hp. If I did add that I would have redesign my crossover pipe again from the turbo. It has a slight lift to it, which would change all the geometry
Makes sense Kevin, thanks..
Are you modding your fuel rail at all? Larger aftermarket input line? Dual feed lines?
Bored out factory rail? http://tcdiesel.com/default.aspx
The Wicked Diesel SS oversize input rail line is nice & looks easy but its actually not that easy to install.
http://www.wickeddiesels.com/id70.html
The factory rail looks aluminum but it's some kind of forged steel alloy that is super hard. The rail has to be removed then the input "fitting" has to be drilled out.
The input fitting is actually part of the rail, not separate. It's machined in.
It would require a precise jig & drill press to drill it out properly. Then the fuel rail must be super cleaned & re-installed.
I'm thinking gun cleaning brushes to get it clean.
And I'm never one to buy the pre-modified rail for more $$$$ & the hassle of shipping the core back.
02-23-2010, 10:21 PM
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I am going to run street tires at least for the first bit... I cant afford slicks right now. Last year my 60's werent so good, I just couldnt get it dialed in.. but the year before I was averageing late 1.5 or early 1.6