Tate

So yesterday, went to fix a friends car. Went and turned the Espar on, went back in the house and back to bed for an hour or so. Come out about 90 min later and find that my Espar had kicked an F17 code. Oh well, truck started on its own at -30, once the engine was running, the Espar would run just fine, wound up having it on for about 3-4 hours yesterday.

This morning, went to go into Calgary to get my new glasses. Had my Espar programmed this time to come on. About 10 minutes after it was set to start, I went to the front door and had a listen. It was running, but on low. Seemed odd, as it should be on high. Stuck around for about a minute and it shuts off. So I go out and look, the timer isn't showing a code, just the time remaining. Give it a couple minutes, it would start back up on low. It did this all morning. Never heated the coolant at all. Wound up doing another cold start at -30.

I've just never seen my Espar do this for close to two hours of cycling on and off. Generally, if it doesn't stay on after three attempts, it shuts down and gives a code. I'm not too sure if it ever kicked onto high once the truck was running, since I was on the highway and could never hear it if my doors are shut and the engine is running. I know it needs a cleaning, does this not seem odd?

bigd450

Sounds like a problem with your temperature sensor, its thinking it's warm enough that it doesn't need to run on high. There is a graph in the manual to tell you what the resistance should be at. Or is your coolant turning to slush and it cant circulate it??

I had problems with mine last week as well. The pins on the water pump motor came loose and needed to be re-soldered. Cleaned it, and ran kerosene through it and its working like new again.

Lucas1

i would bet its not circulating the coolant.

id have to check manual. cant remember f17.

grab the coolant lines see what temp they are at.

if its running at low speed it may think it has satisfied temp

Dr. Evil

Possibly coolant pump:

http://www.espar.com/tech_manuals/Tr...onic%204-5.pdf

Tate

017 Overheating detected Temperature at temperature or overheating sensor > 130 °C,
emergency OFF if Fault Code 012 or 014 not applicable; check water
circuit, check temperature sensor and overheating sensor; replace if
necessary. See graph on previous page.

I was thinking the slushy coolant as well. I had that problem when I first installed it on this truck 3.5 years ago. Thinned it out with some water, and its been good. I blew the hose off the Espar this summer, and had to do a top up on the side of the road, I would suspect that its overly rich. I'll try it today and see if it fires on its own, now that its warmed up a bit.

Thanks for the link Shane, its been bookmarked. Its supposed to be nice this weekend, I'm thinking of putting it on a diet of gasoline for a bit, and then I can tear it down in the summer time when I get some time off.

IPDiesel

When mine fires up-you can hear the coolant pump start to circulate before the thing even begins to fire. It is a distinct sound seprate from the air blower or fuel pump. You can check to see if that is working just by listening to it.

My heater was doing some stupid stuff like that last year. I do not have a 100% reason for it doing it, but I removed it, disassembled & replaced the atomizing screen that surrounds the glow plug.
My atomizing screen was plugged and caused an incorrect burn-thus never let the thing really kick into high gear and continue heating. The flame would go out because of the poor atomziation and the heater would blow smoke for a couple seconds before the unit shut down & tried to restart.

It will only try to restart 3 times before it throws a code and you have to restart it manually.

I tried kerosene but it would not clean it out enough to keep it running happy. I had to take it all apart & clean the heavy carbon buildup in the burner box too. It was caked on so heavy some holes were plugged. A carb cleaner was perfect for this.

Worse case, Polar thermal in the foothills industrial park can service it for you. They quoted me about 400bucks to pull it, clean it & put it back in. As long as there are no parts needing to be replaced.

pistazie

Wow thats an expensive service, Polar in Edmonton did mine a few weeks ago for a bit more than half that, including replacement of some parts (atomizing screen, pin, etc). I can't have it fail though, so its worth it to me. Takes a few hours for sure

Lucas1

if you got them to pull it disasenble clean re install with new parts and test run for just over $200 bucks you got a smoking deal.


the pump can be running and not moving the coolant. hence the overheat situation.
you can pull just the pump top off with everything in place.
and iam sure you have ball valves to minimize the coolant loss right

the motor comes out with two little T20 torx head screws . pop the cir clip and remove the impeller. its magnatized so it picks up all kinds of crap in the cooling system.
99% of the time you can re install with the old o-ring.
just gentally pry it out.
if its squared and you dont have a new one slide the o-ring through rtv coaded fingers. then bolt er up.

whats your coolant strength set at?

pistazie

I bought it from them some years ago and I think the guys there like my charming self! True, I usually have no clue what is a deal or expensive, but I know I have overpaid on some truck stuff. I guess in the end it all works out

Good luck getting it sorted out Tate.

dodgediesel

Hey Tate, my Wabasto works perfect!!!! (just sayin')

Tate

Why you gotta be like that Jamie? Some friend you are!

ccmckee

I know where you can find two more espars that don't work for parts, they're on freightliners .

dodgediesel

Heheheheheheeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!

03 ant a hemi

Feel the love

han solo

Dont worry, my Webasto has been no better this yr. First one last 6yrs without an issue. This second is a pos! Techs from Websato havent been any help either. Oh well, spring is coming soon.