pistazie

So the last time I ran my truck I got a P0514 code (battery temperature sensor rationality). I've also been getting a transmission code since I removed the Smarty tuning : P1751, but I think that is a separate issue.

Anyway, I cleared the codes last time, and now today (following start) I notice that after I start the truck the voltmeter gauge climbs verrrrry slowly to 12V. Usually it jumps up to 13-14 or so right away. So I drive for a bit then I get a "check gauges" light come on and the needle is sitting just around 12V. I thought maybe driving it a bit (10 min.) would get it to climb up but no dice.

Any ideas? The truck has been slower to crank this winter, but still OK. The driver side positive terminal is corroded somewhat and gunky. I did clean the terminals about 2 months ago, maybe they just need another cleaning?

The only electrical change recently was adding an HID kit about 3 weeks ago.

Thanks for any help or advice...

Tate

I don't know if it applies to the 3rd gens, but the 2nd gens determine the charging voltage by the battery temp sensor. Keeps from exploding them, apparently. It sounds like a bad alt, but if the ECM isn't telling it to charge, then its not really the alternators fault. My advice would be get the batteries load tested, and have the alt. tested. Most places do this for free. If that checks out, I would be looking at that temp sensor.

pistazie

Thanks Tate will do. But if I understand you correctly, potentially the truck could die on the drive to the shop?

pcgym

Mine did the exact same thing this morning and my oil pressure gauge stayed at 0 as well. I went to the dealership and the mechanic ran a scan and flashed the computer(a bulletin from Dodge that he hoped had something to do with it) and it has behaved all day so far. I had the batteries load tested and they were fine... did not think about the alternator though. He told me if the oil pressure gauge does it again it's probably the sending unit. If you find anything else out please reply again to this post. By the way mine is also an '06-

Tate

Very unlikely, I've put on several hundred km each time I've lost an alternator, which at present time, has been 3. That was in the dead of winter when I was running my Espar for a couple hours a day as well. Its (relatively) warm right now, and I don't know of any real power draws on your truck that would kill it. You should be fine to get to the shop and back.

StealthDiesel

It's critical to keep all the battery posts perfect on the 3rd Gen's. The ECM monitor's the driver side battery & controls the alternator output.
Meanwhile the alternator's output is connected directly to the passenger side battery.

The factory in dash voltmeter is not to be relied on. Mine is accurate at 12.0V only. It's out to lunch at any other voltage.

It's normal for the battery voltage to climb slowly when the truck is started cold.
The ECM won't let the alternator hit the batteries hard until a certain amount of time has gone by or the truck is driven.

False P0514 codes were common & fixed by a later ECM firmware flash.
The Smarty should have loaded the latest firmware though.
The battery temp sensor is mounted under the driver side battery.

I would load the lowest Smarty level (30HP) setting, even for the winter.
IMO the truck just runs so much better on the Smarty f/w than stock.

Hope this helps...

pistazie

OK thats good, then! Thanks for the advice. I will post back on what happens.

pistazie

yes, good info, thanks Joe! I already had the truck die on me one time because of a loose connection. The only reason I took the Smarty off is because I'm lending it to a racer-buddy for a few months. I have other tuners to load up in the interim .

Actually the only difference I've noticed between the Smarty and the Superchips I ran for about a year is that the smarty smokes a lot by comparison and I miss the reduced torque management of the smarty, lol!

nickg

if you want the battery corrosion to stop comming back, after you clean the terminals, coat them with dialectric grease, even cover the post prior to installing the terminal, if your in a pinch plain old grease will work as well, some batterys are terrible and will corrode terminals quickly.
also that corrosion keeps the alt from charging the batterys back up, and can cause all kinds of electrical gremlins

Mike Holmen

Although my truck is ancient, mine threw codes last year for low voltage due to weak batteries and an alternator that couldn't keep them charged. I hate spending money on boring maintainnce stuff.

Daniella, you have a voltage meter? I would take reading on the batteries to see what voltage you have prior to starting. Before/after the heater grids cycle. Thats what I use as my battery load test to determine if that batteries are any good. My last set would go from 12.7 volts down to 8.43volt just on the heater grids.

When do you get a check light? When the truck is cold or warm? Mine thru a code each time that the heater grid cycled.

I just had to throw my two nickles in.

pistazie

don't we all Mike. But this would actually be the first time I'd go to the mechanic cause of a routine part not working right, can't complain about that - everything else so far has been adding nice goodies, or him fixing stuff I screwed up, there are no secrets between him and I, lmao, he's gonna find out what I did anyway, might as well fess up early!

I do have a voltage meter, I'll check it out. The batteries have been good this winter though. It was pretty mild out yesterday, and what with running the Espar first the grid heater didn't cycle at all. The light came on a few minutes after running the truck, it wasn't up to operating temp yet but it wasn't cold either, again cause of the Espar.

It's a bit tricky getting out of the house this week and doing stuff, my kid has the chicken pox so by virtue of having her around at home I'm kinda quarantined too, lol. Goin a little stir crazy here.

pistazie

Well dammit, I didn't make it to the shop, LOL! The voltage kept going down and down and when it hit about 8V the truck was basically dead, no power, no lights, the external fuel pump was giving out, white exhaust, and I don't think the injectors could fire any more. Alternator needs replacement.

Mike Holmen

Daniella, did you get stuck some where? Things will get better, hang in there. Some days, you just can't win. I was down in Sweetgrass today, I think it was 12 deg's C outside, so spring is coming some day. There are days that I wished that got rid of this old 02 but then there are days like today. It ran for 10 hrs, not even a hick-up, I'm slowly closing on the 300000km mark. The stereo sure worked good as well.

Copenhagenjunkie

That sucks...............same for me too!
I made it 40 miles before she died , at least I was in town a had NAPA deliver me 2 batteries and an alternator.

pistazie

ah dudes, your words give me courage. The truck probably ran 15 min, then I got stuck just north of the Quesnel bridge, cars flying by and covering my truck with sandy/salty sludge, but AMA came and saved the day!