So what do you use to clean the threads? Brakleen /WD40? Scott you should set up a rental plan for this item cause I'll be doing this in the spring too, DieselNut too I guess...?

 

Not sure what you mean Daniela. The tap is to clean the threads in the block so the studs will screw in nicely and all the way to the bottom of the blind head bolt holes in the block.
Compressed air to clean them out after the tap. A little oil & in go the studs. ARP lube for the top nuts & washers.

Whoever invented swage (allen) studs is a genius, I've struggled with the older non-swage studs in my Mustang numerous times.


lol.. a Head stud install GTG!

Since some of the rockers have to come out to install the head studs, I plan on installing valve springs at the same time.
Since the injectors have to come out to use a 1 piece valve spring tool, one should do the injectors at the same tiime also...

and so it goes...

 

Joe, its easier that way with everything is out of there. I'm game to give you a hand with the build. Theres a tool that makes removing the springs a piece of cake.

Daniella, I used a tap on mine and brake clean but I had no head on my engine at the time, so it was easy. The first time I just throw them in. Some guys use thread sealant on the threads in the block. I didn't jam my studs in to hard. When you crank on the nut it will turn the stud somewhat. The 625's are over kill for most of us. I'm using the standard ARP's studs. If I ran more boost 70psi, I would use them of course. Replacing head gaskets afterwards, with studs installed, its a pain in you know where, as they all have to come out.

So how are you guys(girls) planning on installing the studs? Remember to use the arp lube on the top of the stud so you can crank on the retainer/nut. You should also relash the valves afterwards, but I usually never do.

 

Thanks Mike,

I'm no mechanic but do all my own work on my truck & mustang in my own garage.
Studs, springs & injectors all in one shot look pretty straightforward.

I've got the Source one piece valve spring tool already.

The plan is a solid, reliable towing rig. Towing without watching the pyro all the time. I still have to figure to what turbo (or turbos) to go with..

 

Whats your ultimate power goals? If you are looking at staying at 500 or less, a 62mm would be a real good turbo. I'm running this Super B Special, which is a 64, and I am real impressed with it.

 

Oh, OK! Thanks for the info. I was reading a head stud install on some other forum (not a diesel engine though) and the guy really seemed to have a lot of crap in there to clean out of the threads - he tapped in once using brakleen and then once again using WD40. Guess they looked like new when he was done.

I would so be there if there were a GTG for this!!

 

That s what i"m eying to if i go that route-----super b or the special/3 piece manifold/intercooler---ahhhh, only money right.I had to restrain myself this afternoon at BASS-PRO----new Remington 7MM Ultra MAG Sendaro(1400.00CAN)+scope/rings($800.00more)-----or truck parts.I WALKED AWAY.DW

 

some gasspot engines have headbolts that run into waterjackets in the head. you must use sealant on the threads.

 

Thankfully the Cummins headbolts holes in the block are all blind, they don't go into the water jacket.
On my Ford 302, it doesn't matter which sealant I use or what I do, the studs will leak if I don't use some Bars leak in the cooling system. Drives me nuts.

I don't really have a HP goal and my truck will never be a high HP truck.
All I would like a strong pulling, deadly reliable tow rig that I can tow without watching the pyro. These studs are part of the "support" parts I've been gathering.


Ok, head stud GTG in my garage early May!

Common rails only for now! BYOB & studs & valve springs & injectors...
I think I've got all the tools & hopefully do a compression test too. My truck goes 1st cuz I work slow.

 

I was replying to here.......

 

springs super easy to do. pinout TDC #1 use the piston to hold the valves up in 1-6. mark the damper 33 degress around. then do 2-5 then 33 more degress. then 3-4 bingo your done.

 

When I did my springs, I did it opposite of Luke. Reason being, you do 3 and 4 first, both cylinders are exposed, not working under the cowl. Find TDC on #2/5 and pull the rockers on those. #5 is the first one under the cowl. Then find TDC on #1/6 and your are now doing the last one under the cowl. If you do #1/6 first, your working on the last cylinder with #5 rockers in the way. And #6 is a PITA enough as it is.

 

thanks Luke !

Count me in, it will be instructive for me to see how it's done at least. I had planned on settin aside a week to do this; the turbo only took me, what, 3 weeks, LOL!!!

 

i had all my rockers out when I did my springs. they;re so easy to remove its seems like the only way to do it. flip your valve cover over and you have a convenient storage system for them.

 

I used the rockers to find TDC on each cylinder, then pulled them off. Right about the valve cover though, came in real handy doing the head as well.