gsbrockman

As of today, The Radio Flyer is at 232 idle hours, 2,774 drive hours, and 148,224 miles.

The maintenance schedule calls for cooling system services every 150,000 miles. Since I experienced a water pump failure at 94,914 miles in Huntsville, AL, I was not too excited if I went over 150K as the dealership replaced about 2 gallons of coolant at that time, and I'm sure my "old" coolant was rejuvenated somewhat with two new gallons. Since hauling has been a little slow, I opted to perform this task today.

I had intended on trying some of the Peak Final Charge OAT coolant (per a post by Nick00less) but could not source any at more common stores near me like Advance, Auto Zone, or O'Reilly Auto Parts. I ultimately said "skaaaaaarewwwww it" and bough three gallons of MOPAR OAT 10 yr / 150,000 mile coolant concentrate at my selling dealer for $21.28/gallon (part number 68163848AB). In the end, it appears the MOPAR stuff is probably a little cheaper than the Peak Final Charge any way.

Upon searching then reading the following threads :

Coolant drain plug - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Coolant flush on 2013 model - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

2013 Radiator Flush - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

I decided I'd try this technique within this thread. In the end, I'm glad to say that I was pleased with the results.

I had a leftover 2.5 gallon DEF jug that I'd cleaned up thoroughly and put away some time ago. I used a funnel and poured one gallon of concentrate coolant and one gallon of distilled water in the jug for mixing purposes. After mixing, I then poured back into each jug. I did likewise for the last two gallons of concentrate and distilled water. The cooling system capacity is stated to be 5.7 gallons. I anticipated not needing the full six gallons after mixing, but it was close.


I began by removing the three 8mm screws that secure the airbox lid to the airbox assembly. I then loosened the clamp (8mm also) securing the hose from the air box to the turbo. Leaving the sensor connectors connected, simply lay the airbox lid back on the valve cover. Using a 13mm socket, remove the single bolt that attaches the air filter housing to the radiator support. Leaving the RAM Active Air harness connected, place the housing back out of the way.


One can now access the lower radiator hose "Y" pipe.

gsbrockman

Since I only have a 15 quart drain pan, that is very large in diameter, I decided I could make less of a mess by doing the following : Remove the R/F wheel well liner. There's a few 8mm screws and three "christmas tree" style fasteners securing the wheel well liner to the R/F fender and body. I'd suggest having new replacements, as I've never been able to re-use these on wheel well liners. I had a couple extra bolts attaching my mudflap that I had to remove.


With the wheel well liner removed, one has easy access to the hose clamp that attaches the lower "Y" pipe to the block.


It helps to turn the wheels full lock to the right. In hindsight----I'd probably removed the tire & wheel assembly.

gsbrockman

Since I suspected I'd get most of the 5.7 gallon capacity of coolant out, I used a five gallon bucket sitting on a piece of styrofoam sitting on a car ramp Your dunnage may vary The wife's 3-month supply of Nuva Rings are shipped to her in this styrofoam box.

Squeeze the hose clamp together and slide away from it's intended connection. Separate the lower hose from the lower radiator "Y" hose and allow to drain.

My truck was at ambient temp, although I only moved it about 80 feet from where it was parked to the front of my garage.
Ultimately I drained right at 5 of the 5.7 gallons of old coolant. I was very excited with this fact, especially given what a flush & fill could have possibly ran at the dealership.

gsbrockman

For filling of the cooling system, I decided I'd remove the upper hose clamp and fill from the upper radiator hose.

Using the same funnel I used for mixing and transferring coolant initially, I stuck it in the upper hose and grasped it tightly so as to not leak. I then added about 4.5 gallons of coolant until it began purging out of the top of the radiator hose neck. Reconnect the hose and relocate the clamp.

I poured the remainder into the coolant overflow bottle, started truck, set the high idle, and turned the heat on. After the truck reached 165*F, I decided I'd take it for a test drive to speed up things.

While driving, I carefully watched for the coolant temp to spike, then drop down quickly, indicating the thermostat had opened.

After the thermostat opened, I did not notice the coolant bottle dropping down an appreciable amount. I'll keep an eye on the coolant level, and top off with the remaining one gallon of coolant that I have after the truck goes through a few more heating & cooling cycles.

All in all....I had $70.31 in this servicing including three gallons of MOPAR concentrate coolant, three gallons of distilled water, and good ol' KY sales tax (6% on coolant only).

I was very happy with the fact I was able to change 5 of the 5.7 gallons of coolant with a simple drain & dill.

Hope this helps out others when the time comes!!!!

Harvie

Crack the allen pipe plug on top of eng and it fills completely in one try while eng runs.

Just do not drop the allen wrench, it hits alt + term and shorts it out...... negating the diy savings.

gsbrockman

There no longer is one on the 2013 & newer trucks.