2012 RAM 2500 Center Console Upper switches not working Help?
The switch bank that has the exhaust brake, Tire Pressure, Power Outlet button's are not working, I checked the harness going in and it seems seated, fuses look ok.
But I'm not sure if there is a master fuse for this bank of switches..??
Any ideas?
But I'm not sure if there is a master fuse for this bank of switches..??
Any ideas?
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
There really isn't much to that switch bank. Ground, battery feed, LIN BUS, and Hazard switch signal wire. The LIN BUS is what controls the exhaust brake, power outlet, and Tire pressure switches. I would get out a multimeter to check for power between the ground (pin A6) and FUSED Battery Feed (pin A7), which looks like it goes to FUSE M20 (15A) in the TIPM. It powers the upper and lower (if you have it) switch banks, steering control module, and the cluster. I suppose if any of those are working, then it is not a fuse issue, but either a bad switch bank, broken ground or worse, broken power wire to that switch. If there is power, it could be a problem with the LIN BUS not communicating with I believe the TIPM and not sending the appropriate signals to the CCN or PCM.
Keep us posted on what you find out.
Keep us posted on what you find out.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 930
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Just to make sure, did you check A6 and A7 with the ignition in the on/run position/not started? How about started? To eliminate A6 (ground) as being a culprit, check for continuity between that pin and chassis ground. If you have power to the lower switch bank, there should be power to A7 as well since they share a splice. If power is getting to the lower switch bank, it could be a broken ground or power to the upper switch bank.
I should have posted the wire colors originally:
Upper Switch Bank Connector:
A4 (Hzrd switch) = WT/BR
A5 (LIN BUS) = WT/DG
A6 (GROUND) = BK/LG
A7 (FUSED B(+)) = RD/GY
Have you had the dash apart? Could there be any reason any of those wires were severed to that plug by removing the radio bezel or splicing for other equipment or anything? If not, then I would suspect that it is either the switch or the TIPM.
One would think it would throw a code if it was the TIPM, but these were built by, well at least designed by humans, so it is possible for something to go awry in the TIPM and it not throw a code.
If you still have a warranty, and none of the above gets you anywhere, I would take it to the dealer for further troubleshooting. If you have a buddy up there, see if he will pull his switch bank to confirm if yours is dead or if something else is going on.
I should have posted the wire colors originally:
Upper Switch Bank Connector:
A4 (Hzrd switch) = WT/BR
A5 (LIN BUS) = WT/DG
A6 (GROUND) = BK/LG
A7 (FUSED B(+)) = RD/GY
Have you had the dash apart? Could there be any reason any of those wires were severed to that plug by removing the radio bezel or splicing for other equipment or anything? If not, then I would suspect that it is either the switch or the TIPM.
One would think it would throw a code if it was the TIPM, but these were built by, well at least designed by humans, so it is possible for something to go awry in the TIPM and it not throw a code.
If you still have a warranty, and none of the above gets you anywhere, I would take it to the dealer for further troubleshooting. If you have a buddy up there, see if he will pull his switch bank to confirm if yours is dead or if something else is going on.
Yeah actually had it at the dealer for a bad Sat Antenna, the Tech taht worked on it was sloppy, had to go back because he forgot to put back the screws and the plastic over on top of the center console dash piece. So I suspect he may have cut a wire or maybe for got to plug a harness back in, I followed the harness today and found a plug behind the radio on the right side that was not plugged in, but maybe thats for some other accessory I don't have.
I'll check again, it has to be a cut wire of some sort.
Thanks again for your help, if all else fails I'll take her back to the dealer again. <sigh>
I'll check again, it has to be a cut wire of some sort.
Thanks again for your help, if all else fails I'll take her back to the dealer again. <sigh>
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Ok, it appears I had the meter set wrong :-o, got continuity from A6 to ground. Got 12 volts from A6 to A7 (on A7).. So I suspect the switch bank, the prong on it for A7 is a little loose. If its the TIPM, ecm not getting signal the the dealer will have to figure that out..
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Sorry for the delay. Had to go back to work today (rotating weekends). That's good news! Do you think you are just gonna buy a new switch bank or have the dealer troubleshoot it since it sounds like you are still under warranty? If it is the switch bank, whoever did the work could have broke that connection.
Last thing you could do is check for resistance on the switch bank between A6 and A7. If it is broke you will get an open (no resistance), if it is attached, then you should get some reading. If you want, I can pull mine out to see what the readings are. Let me know!
Last thing you could do is check for resistance on the switch bank between A6 and A7. If it is broke you will get an open (no resistance), if it is attached, then you should get some reading. If you want, I can pull mine out to see what the readings are. Let me know!


