redneck1

I am seriously thinking of deleting my truck. In the summer I tow a 7,000lbs TT and whatever gear will fit in the box. I am not interested in increasing the power, but I am just sick of regens, black oil and overall being a slave to the emissions system. I have spent a lot of time on this site researching and here is what I am thinking of purchasing:

1. Mini Maxx (with EGT probe)
2. Pillar mount
3. DPF Delete - Down pipe kit (no bungs) SS835 NB (from h&s website)
4. PCV plug

As my initial delete I am planning on just turning off the EGR electronically and removing just the DPF. Just until the warranty runs out. After I'll remove the EGR completely.

My question is whether, with the above mentioned DPF delete pipe, will I have to remove the other two cats or can I just get away with removing the DPF?

As for the EGT probe, I would like to mount mine just after the turbo. My reasoning is as follows: I only use the EGT to monitor when to shut down the truck. Having the probe post turbo gives a more accurate reading with respect the heat soaked up by the turbo. Since these trucks have an EB can I still put the probe in the little cast pipe (9 or so inches long) piece just behind the turbo charger?

Will the MiniMaxx show any boost reading from the trucks electronics?

Should I be worried about my clutch on stock setting?

Am I missing anything or not understanding something?

Busboy

All the DPF delete pipes I have seen remove the DPF and the NOX filters. These are the two big barrels directly forward of the muffler. To remove the CAT in the down pipe requires a replacement down pipe. I would remove both the DPF and the NOX. The Mini Max reads and can displays the factory MAP sensor for boost. Because you have a manual trans I would seriously consider removing the EGR and cooler and also the throttle valve. If you decide to do it you can buy the replacement intake and avoid buying the EGR and throttle valve delete pieces, you would still need just the EGR cooler delete kit. If you do do this I would also suggest using H&S' boost tube as well. I would also delete the crankcase breather hose from the valve cover to the air inlet to the turbo. I just used 3-4 feet of 3/4 inch hose and routed the hoes down just behind the passenger front wheel on the outside of the frame, then used a plastic 3/4 inch plug and clamp to plug the intake hose.

When installing the EGT probe I would consider access for the tap before drilling the hole. I think the easiest but not the best solution is to mount it in the rear EGR cooler delete plate, you can drill and tap it on the bench before installing the plate.

redneck1

Do you mean get a new intake horn? I am not familiar with some of the terminology but I guess there must be a throttle body somewhere to allow the exhaust gasses to enter the intake.

The reason I can't take the EGR off right away is because of my dealership. The will honor the warranty, but will only go so far. So what you are suggesting is to get a EGR cooler delete like the Sinister system and a new intake right?

When deleting and leaving the EGR in situ can I run a cold air intake or at least an insert like k&n?

Busboy

Yes, at first I thought it was a waste of money but after realizing I could avoid buying the EGR delete part of the kit and only buy the cooler delete kit it reduced the price then you also avoid buying the throttle valve delete part so price reduced further then H&S reduced the price. . I don't know if you have seen the pictures of the intake horn when we removed it but it was almost plugged. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t298909.html That was one of the reasons we replaced the factory intake manifold/horn.
There is the EGR valve that opens to allow the exhaust gas to recirculate back into the intake, some have said it still leaks even when closed. The throttle valve closes to restrict the air coming from the turbo.

Since deleting the first truck we have had the air intake hose to the turbo off many times and each time there was an oily film. This was coming from the breather until we deleted it. I hate to think what the inside of the pre-cooler is like. I have always liked to keep things stock but I have come to realize that these trucks just will not work in the colder climate we live in without deleting them. I can't see using a cold air intake, the truck is so powerful as it is for what we use them for. My son had a 27,000lb load hooked to his goose hitch 2 weeks ago without any trouble with his clutch.

redneck1

I lived in Calgary for 20 years so I know the winters there, especially northern Alberta. Not to mention northern Sask. Ottawa is nasty too. Lots of snow and even more salt.

I fully agree with you on the power of the truck, these things are brutal. My 03 I kept stock and I wanted to keep this one the same, but with all the EPA gizmos that's impossible. And, with diesel at $1.339 per liter the cost of the delete will pay for itself pretty quickly.

redneck1

When I get home today I will be ordering the Mini Maxx (with EGT probe) and the delete pipe, but before I do I wanted to clearify a couple of things:

1. Do I need the pipe with or with out the bungs.

2. Is there a 1/8 NPT sending unit that I can get for the MiniMaxx (the one that is on top of the oil filter housing)? I used that for my oil pressure on my 03, but I am not sure if the Mini picks up that reading from the truck or not.

3. Since I have never owned or used a programmer do I have to register something when I get it, or download something?

4. Does the 6.7 have retarded injection timing? Compared to my 03 this ones throttle response is very delayed. Either way, can the minimaxx adjust timing too?

djcheez

without bungs
i dont believe it has an oil pressure gauge, if it does, it is electronic.
you can download latest programming from H&S.
with the latest software, you can advance and retard timing with the H&S

redneck1

Awesome. Thanks so much. Can't wait to get rid of the saboteurs of my truck.

Grand Geek

Busboy your pictures are pushing me to delete my truck.. It sees all highway and 5 minutes most of warm up time (when its cold out it's in the heated garage at home). At 45300 the milage is still getting better. It pulls a trailer 50 percent of the time usually up to 10000 lbs on the trailer. I'm not looking for more power just to get even better milage. From my place east of Nisku i can get down to Raymond Alberta and still have close to a 1/4 tank left. That is if i am not pulling a trailer...

Is there a place a guy could find a list of the items you will install once all complete??

Thanks for any help on this subject.

My uncles late 07 went into limp mode for this reason. I never saw any pictures but it was a 7000 buck bill that dodge had to cover.. He had just under 1000 kms left in his warrenty.

redneck1

Wow, 3/4 of a tank from Nisku to Raymond. I wish my 2011 could do that. Maybe with the EGR unplugged. Otherwise I'm regenning every 200 kms (empty) and the dealer says thats ok.

Busboy

PM sent

Busboy

I have found it difficult to get my hands on delete pipes without bungs but using one with bungs just has one threaded hole and an oil drain plug 18mm X1.5mm fits perfect.

New2Diesel

PM me if interested. I have H&S EGR Delete kit that I would be willing to get rid of for half price!!! I had to get an intake manifold and MUCH MUCH more. No longer need the kit.

Grand Geek

Thanks Busboy...

NoSparkplugs

Redneck1, I'm like you, don't want any extra power (ok thats a slight lie) but I just want more fuel mileage and a clean running engine. I'm doing the H&S EGR cooler delete, downpipe and DPF delete and minimaxx tomorrow. I also have a GDP intake manifold plate, grid heater and grid relocation kit as well. I just don't think I'll have the time to install it tomorrow as its a little more involved. Its amazing how choked off these engines are!! I'm sick of 600-650km to a tank...

I plan on taking pics of the install, sorry for the hijack