Removing coil springs
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,280
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From: Udaho
I guess I'm the only one who had tight springs 
. The installation instructions said that the newer the truck the harder it would be. I guess they start to sag under the weight of the Mighty Cummins.
. The installation instructions said that the newer the truck the harder it would be. I guess they start to sag under the weight of the Mighty Cummins.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 0
From: Republic of Texas
I have a third gen but they are pretty much the same frame/axles.
I think the caster range is 4-5 on mine. Tell them to go to nearly max or max to push the axle forward is what I was told.
I believe better yet, get .5 inch longer control arms.
Few things you can research.
I think the caster range is 4-5 on mine. Tell them to go to nearly max or max to push the axle forward is what I was told.
I believe better yet, get .5 inch longer control arms.
Few things you can research.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: ANZA
spring removal
I have done this a couple times rapa couple ratchet straps around the springs while the truck weight is still on them
Maybe you saw my post: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...00&postcount=1
My advice is to pay the $100-$150 to have a good shop do it (might even include the alignment?). It kills me to say that because I really enjoy an occasional wrench session with my truck- plus I like to save $$.
The problem is, on mine the only way I could've done it without a spring compressor is if I would've jacked it up even higher than I did (probably run out of jack stand though) and disconnected the brake lines and possibly the trailing links. I had the brake lines stretched to the max and there was no way that spring was coming out of there without a compressor- let alone go back in with the 2.5" spacer.
You're right- don't use a compressor! I hope somebody else has a safe/clever way of doing it but as for my advice: take it to the shop.
My advice is to pay the $100-$150 to have a good shop do it (might even include the alignment?). It kills me to say that because I really enjoy an occasional wrench session with my truck- plus I like to save $$.
The problem is, on mine the only way I could've done it without a spring compressor is if I would've jacked it up even higher than I did (probably run out of jack stand though) and disconnected the brake lines and possibly the trailing links. I had the brake lines stretched to the max and there was no way that spring was coming out of there without a compressor- let alone go back in with the 2.5" spacer.
You're right- don't use a compressor! I hope somebody else has a safe/clever way of doing it but as for my advice: take it to the shop.
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turbo dreams
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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Oct 13, 2007 12:50 PM