Lets Talk Turbos
 

Well, Im making preps for some mods to the '11.

A South Bend Double Disc (3250) is on the backseat. Its getting installed in a few days.

Gonna be doing an AirDog and a GDP Intake. ARP 625's are on the priority list.

Im thinking Im gonna run a set of II 100 nozzles.

That leaves one weak point.

The turbo.

So, lets see what the general consensus is; Im looking for streetable fun and something that spools decent and keeps the EGT's managable while towing. My truck will probably never see the track, and probably hit the rollers all out just for a local bragging right number. I want something that will tow with the best of em, and still make me smile for a DD. Im thinking a top end of 600hp on the dyno, but a daily driving 400-425.

I thought long and hard about twins (something like Source has, using the VGT) but its hard to swallow a 4500 dollar ticket, even for me. [laugh]

Im thinking Im gonna just bite the bullet and kiss the VGT goodbye. Thinking hard, hard, hard about going with a decent single.

Yall chime in and let me know what would be a decent setup for what Im looking at.

Personally Im thinking a Silver Bullet 66 on a 3rd gen manifold. A 2nd gen manifold would be soooooooo sweet, but a 3rd gen would be a drop in and bolt up situation.

Take me to school, give me the good, the bad, and the ugly, along with some suggestions. :)

Thanks DTR!

Compunds, the only way to get all that you want and have good manners on the street and towing.

Tobin

Theres got to be a single out there that will give me a decent mix of what Im looking for without having to drop over 4k on a set of twins....

Id give the guys at HTT a call and tell them exactly what your looking for. They're straight shooters.

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If you change it then you are throughing out the EB? I love the EB on mine and would not like to have to shell out $$$ to put a aftermarket on it. A twin kit that uses the OEM would be nice for someone to develope. I see the EPA pushing smog more and more into rural areas on testing not just metrosexual areas. Not trying to kill your fun but throwing out some thoughts.[coffee]

Brian,

Twin kits are out there that use the VGT to keep the exhaust brake.

http://sourceautomotive.biz/20075-20...nturbokit.aspx

Ive spoken with Rip and they are working on a 4th gen kit.

I like the exhaust brake, but to be honest, Im about to dump 4 grand on the above mentioned mods, sans turbo setup. Another 4-5 is doable for me, but its a lot of dough. I can get a Silver66 and manifold setup for 1800 bucks from Alligator Performance. For that Id be willing to sacrifice the exhaust brake. :D

Just trying to decide what will give me a nice balance of daily driving fun vs towing when needed. This wont be til next summer or so, so I have plenty of time to look and ask questions.

I've been eye balling the silver66, 3rd gen manifold and stud kit from alligator too. Pretty tempting.....

Really tempting. From all I can find digging through post after post after post on mulitple forums the 66 is considered really laggy on the 5.9s (with minimal mods) but will spool like a beast on the 6.7's Most say it can be run as a simple drop in replacement and once you add some fueling mods it only gets better.

Not to mention most are saying it tows well too.

Come on yall. Im turbotarded..... but learning. Someone either confirm my thoughts on the 66, or prove me wrong. And please explain why?

I know twins is the golden ticket, but man, a 6.7 with no VGT sounds like a real truck...

So so so tempting.

I am going to go with industrial injections setup with external watgate. Keep the stocker down and keep the EB. Kit runs about 3K for the turbos and 950 for the external wastgate.

Blocked off EGR with a vgt killed my head gausket.

Mr Blake, I was going to run a Steed T-4 manifold and a S366 T-4 73mm 0.91 turbo. The turbo is around $600 and the manifold is around $600. You'll have tons more turbo. If you tow often and heavy, you'll miss the VGT turbo, but the stock turbo isn't or ever be a performance turbo. You could go twins, but the fourth gens have tons of plastic around the turbo (more than the third gen) does, which makes twins more complex. Yes is can be done, but I would need to relocate the AC line and throw in a heat shield. You could relocate the battery and coolant jug, but thats more than most will ever try.

Usually when I drive my truck, I seem to fight fairly often with the ebrake. Really hate the cruise and going down steep hills. The computer will drop a gear and you'll have a very aggressive ebrake action. I often just use more throttle just so the ebrake doesn't come on. The 4th gen brakes are awesome. I still tow trailers with my older truck and I have drum brakes on the rear now, but thats another story.

The S366 on a 6.7L will operate, similar to a 5.9L running a S364 turbo. With those bigger sticks and some CP mods, you'll have a fairly fast truck. I'm jealous that I didn't buy a G56 instead of a RFE68. Good luck.

Thanks for the info Mike. Your one of the more knowledgable turbo gurus 'round here and I trust your judgement.

Im pretty set, and ok with, losing the EB. I dont tow all the time. When I do its either really heavy, for short distances, IE 20k for 20-40 miles (farm stuff, local) or moderately heavy for who knows how far, IE (my ~9500 to 10,000lb fiver) halfway across the planet.

I know the 66 will be great for a DD. Im just concerned for when I do tow, how hot is it going to get.

And yeah, the G56 has me so much happier than the 68RE. Talked with a shop semi-local to me about doing the head studs. He said that to pull the head, have it checked and trued, put in a better gasket and ARP 625 it would run me about 2k. Probably gonna send the truck over around March or so, when I head home for time off. At that time im gonna AirDog it and do the full deletes. Next go round would be nozzels and the turbo.


And I SWORE, SWORE to the wifey that I was going to leave this one stock. I was done playing.


WHOOPS!

:hehe:

Is there any opportunity to drop in a larger vgt? Does a he451ve or even a HE551ve exist that might use the same controller on the vanes and be more or less plug and play?

I don't think you will like towing heavy with a 66mm turbo.

Tobin

Can you please expand on that? Like I said. I'm really really uninformed when it comes to aftermarket turbos. Why won't it tow well? Too laggy?

Are you speaking from a 5.9 experience or have you dealt with a 6.7 and this size turbo while towing. Everything I've read says it's completely different worlds from the 5.9 to 6.7 when going with aftermarket turbos. Forgive my ignorance but I really want to make a good decision here. I'm fixing to declare nuclear war on my warranty and just want to do it right.

Blake, I would just throw in the new head studs. I would at least wait till the original head gasket blows, before doing all the extra stuff. Chances are even the block deck is warped. Most of my engines that I build I need at least 3thou cut to clean up.

I would ask that shop how they plan to install the head studs? I usually just take out one bolt at a time and install the new stud. Doing this I work from the front to the back starting from the passager side and working to the driver side. Crank the stud up to at least 165ft*lbs.

If you bust the head loose, I would do more than just true'in up the head.[laugh]

I just going to retorque my stock head bolts up to 135 ft*lbs. Works on lots of trucks so far.

If you get over the 55+ psi with the S366, I would look to get something bigger. S366 don't last to long over 55+psi.