I destroyed my engine
09-26-2013, 11:13 PM
#32
Registered User
I've been buying up 6.7 core engines from salvage yards and I can tell you horror stories about them.
First and foremost CHANGE THE OIL ON SCHEDULE!
If you don't, it literally turns into GELATIN in the pan and valvecover.
Just tore one down to-day that was stuck hard and had "licorice gelatin" in it and it was hard stuck from a bad bearing.
I had the crank hanging in the air and this slop was oozing out of the oil passages on the crank and dropping onto my teardown mat!
IT STAINS INSTANTLY and seems to embed in skin once you try to soap wash, very nasty stuff!!!
Also, I pulled a 2010 apart that had a dropped valve due to a seat working out, though the engine showed not one sign of ever being hot.
Perfect cylinder walls and pistons (other than on the bad cylinder), no bore or piston damage that you'd expect from heat, just a dropped #1 seat and valve.
I also have 2 sitting here with holes in the blocks, one has literally 1/3rd of the driver's side pan rail /block blown away.
I'll try to get pics of some of this stuff, it's pretty ugly.
Mark.
First and foremost CHANGE THE OIL ON SCHEDULE!
If you don't, it literally turns into GELATIN in the pan and valvecover.
Just tore one down to-day that was stuck hard and had "licorice gelatin" in it and it was hard stuck from a bad bearing.
I had the crank hanging in the air and this slop was oozing out of the oil passages on the crank and dropping onto my teardown mat!
IT STAINS INSTANTLY and seems to embed in skin once you try to soap wash, very nasty stuff!!!
Also, I pulled a 2010 apart that had a dropped valve due to a seat working out, though the engine showed not one sign of ever being hot.
Perfect cylinder walls and pistons (other than on the bad cylinder), no bore or piston damage that you'd expect from heat, just a dropped #1 seat and valve.
I also have 2 sitting here with holes in the blocks, one has literally 1/3rd of the driver's side pan rail /block blown away.
I'll try to get pics of some of this stuff, it's pretty ugly.
Mark.
09-30-2013, 12:33 AM
#34
Registered User
I finally got my truck running again. I'm lighter in the wallet, but some more stuff fell off the truck. She really feels like what I've come to expect from a Cummins engine. Massive torque and pulls really well up the hills. I'm running no power on my H&S tuner for now. Did a run Wednesday and got 17.2 MPG at 65 MPH. Mostly flat land with some small hills to climb. Considering it's a 4x4 Dually I'm pretty happy with that number. I have a buddy with a 2011 4x4 2500 stock and he's thrilled to get 14 MPG on the highway. That seems kind of low to me.
10-02-2013, 05:54 PM
#36
Registered User
I change my oil and filter every year whether it needs it or not, my oil is the cleanest oil I have EVER seen even in a gas engine, I use 5W40 full synthetic Amsoil and their EA080 filter, good oil and filter is the cheapest thing you can do for your engine, I don't have the factory oil dilution system on my truck though. On another note my son is already seeing exhaust codes with his 2013 DEF truck.
10-02-2013, 06:15 PM
#37
Administrator
I've been buying up 6.7 core engines from salvage yards and I can tell you horror stories about them.
First and foremost CHANGE THE OIL ON SCHEDULE!
If you don't, it literally turns into GELATIN in the pan and valvecover.
Just tore one down to-day that was stuck hard and had "licorice gelatin" in it and it was hard stuck from a bad bearing.
I had the crank hanging in the air and this slop was oozing out of the oil passages on the crank and dropping onto my teardown mat!
IT STAINS INSTANTLY and seems to embed in skin once you try to soap wash, very nasty stuff!!!
Also, I pulled a 2010 apart that had a dropped valve due to a seat working out, though the engine showed not one sign of ever being hot.
Perfect cylinder walls and pistons (other than on the bad cylinder), no bore or piston damage that you'd expect from heat, just a dropped #1 seat and valve.
I also have 2 sitting here with holes in the blocks, one has literally 1/3rd of the driver's side pan rail /block blown away.
I'll try to get pics of some of this stuff, it's pretty ugly.
Mark.
First and foremost CHANGE THE OIL ON SCHEDULE!
If you don't, it literally turns into GELATIN in the pan and valvecover.
Just tore one down to-day that was stuck hard and had "licorice gelatin" in it and it was hard stuck from a bad bearing.
I had the crank hanging in the air and this slop was oozing out of the oil passages on the crank and dropping onto my teardown mat!
IT STAINS INSTANTLY and seems to embed in skin once you try to soap wash, very nasty stuff!!!
Also, I pulled a 2010 apart that had a dropped valve due to a seat working out, though the engine showed not one sign of ever being hot.
Perfect cylinder walls and pistons (other than on the bad cylinder), no bore or piston damage that you'd expect from heat, just a dropped #1 seat and valve.
I also have 2 sitting here with holes in the blocks, one has literally 1/3rd of the driver's side pan rail /block blown away.
I'll try to get pics of some of this stuff, it's pretty ugly.
Mark.
Mark:
Thanks for your input and pictures of the Dodge CTD CR 6.7 engines!
I have seen a few in the area I live in at our Dodge Dealer with major block problems as you have shown. There are more problems with these engines than many here realize. I feel the high coolant and oil temperatures have alot to do with this. The emissions garbage on these engines aggravate the high oil and coolant temperatures even more.
Your recommendation on regular oil changes is good advice to those here that want these new trucks. However,.....I have seen some WITH regular oil changes that STILL have major failures.
---------
John_P
10-07-2013, 08:58 AM
#38
The Guru
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Location: Airdrie Canada
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I've built up a bunch of 5.9L and 6.7's engines, probably around 10-20 a year. The real biggest issues is the CR rod. I almost throw 2/3's of them into recycling.
Once the big end gets to be oval, its to late and a rod is coming out the block.
The trick to rebuilding is to find good cores. If there is a rod outside the engine, there isn't going to much to rebuild.
If you think that the cummins design is bad to work on go work on a ford or chevy diesel. Done a bunch of 6.0's and 6.6's as of late.
Most 6.7's that I rebuild are from head gaskets and injector failure, but for the most part there is almost nothing wrong with either engine.
As for the thread op, I'm suprised that your engine failed from a flex plate failure, as there is two cover in between the transmission and the engine. The first being the bell housing adapter and rear seal housing.
The flex plate probably failed due to the bolts being improperely torqued.
Once the big end gets to be oval, its to late and a rod is coming out the block. The trick to rebuilding is to find good cores. If there is a rod outside the engine, there isn't going to much to rebuild.
If you think that the cummins design is bad to work on go work on a ford or chevy diesel.
Done a bunch of 6.0's and 6.6's as of late.Most 6.7's that I rebuild are from head gaskets and injector failure, but for the most part there is almost nothing wrong with either engine.
As for the thread op, I'm suprised that your engine failed from a flex plate failure, as there is two cover in between the transmission and the engine. The first being the bell housing adapter and rear seal housing.
The flex plate probably failed due to the bolts being improperely torqued.
11-13-2013, 09:03 PM
#39
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
I also no long worry about them.
Rods are what sit on the back of my mind.
It really sucks to see something like this happen to a stand up guy, but, myself, like you, have made up my mind to become my own warranty station.
Hope you get a good service life out of the new setup.
11-16-2013, 02:09 AM
#40
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Yep, Yep, Yep, Yep and Yep.
I also no long worry about them.
Rods are what sit on the back of my mind.
It really sucks to see something like this happen to a stand up guy, but, myself, like you, have made up my mind to become my own warranty station.
Hope you get a good service life out of the new setup.
I also no long worry about them.
Rods are what sit on the back of my mind.
It really sucks to see something like this happen to a stand up guy, but, myself, like you, have made up my mind to become my own warranty station.
Hope you get a good service life out of the new setup.
Were the heck you been buddy? Haven't you replaced those rods yet?I've been trying to figure out what turbo I want to run the S467.7/83 T-4 0.90 or the S476/88 T-4 1.1. I have a S476 with a 88mm turbine, T-4 AR 1.1
I'm was planning on running F1 200HP nozzles and dual 6.7L's cp's. Just waiting on the transmission to be built.
Just hate stock CR rods. I've hand a tons of them go beyond tolerance.
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