H&S with or without Pyrometer
#1
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H&S with or without Pyrometer
Do I want it with or without?
BTW...my truck was hit in a parking lot (while on vacation) by a BUDLIGHT trailer truck. Driver rear corner, light and bumper all need replaced or some serious good dent / scratch removal...didn't even get a case of beer out of it....but they are covering all cost to fix it.
Thanks
JAM
BTW...my truck was hit in a parking lot (while on vacation) by a BUDLIGHT trailer truck. Driver rear corner, light and bumper all need replaced or some serious good dent / scratch removal...didn't even get a case of beer out of it....but they are covering all cost to fix it.
Thanks
JAM
#2
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with. only the fords come with a built in pyro probe and reads off OBDII port. if you don't have the probe, you won't be able to set defuel parameters
#3
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did i miss anything here?????
Choose Your Tuner
1 x Mini Maxx WITH Pyrometer Connection $949.05
Choose Your Exhaust
1 x 2010-2011 Dodge 6.7 STAINLESS Turbo Back 5" DPF Delete with Muffler $588.05
EGR Delete
1 x 2009-2011 Dodge 6.7 EGR/Cooler Delete $141.55
1 x Mini Maxx WITH Pyrometer Connection $949.05
Choose Your Exhaust
1 x 2010-2011 Dodge 6.7 STAINLESS Turbo Back 5" DPF Delete with Muffler $588.05
EGR Delete
1 x 2009-2011 Dodge 6.7 EGR/Cooler Delete $141.55
#4
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There's very little difference between the factory pyro and the H & S Pyro I saw about 5 degrees. That could be the values of the probes. But I have separate gauges to tell the difference.
I would use the factory probe. It's close enough
I would use the factory probe. It's close enough
#5
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just that case of beer and a buddy to help git r dun.
FYI- make sure you bleed the cooling system VERY well. Air will get trapped into the block when doing the cooler delete. if you don't get out all the air, you will be increasing the chance of headgasket failure exponentially. take your time. there is a bleeder screw on a coolant pipe near the cooler. remove the screw, fill coolant til it comes out of that hole. install screw. run motor til its hot (operating temp) and check coolant level. make sure your over flow jug is at proper level before running motor. do this a couple times to make sure coolant is full and over flow jug is at proper level before hammering on the truck. squeeze upper radiator hose a few times to help burp air. hate to see a HG go cause of air but it happens and have seen it on bone stock trucks because of a egr cooler that was leaking (coolant gets burnt up on the exhaust side but when not running bleeds air into the coolant passages of the motor, air pockets start to steam and create a CRAP load of pressure hence HG popping)
FYI- make sure you bleed the cooling system VERY well. Air will get trapped into the block when doing the cooler delete. if you don't get out all the air, you will be increasing the chance of headgasket failure exponentially. take your time. there is a bleeder screw on a coolant pipe near the cooler. remove the screw, fill coolant til it comes out of that hole. install screw. run motor til its hot (operating temp) and check coolant level. make sure your over flow jug is at proper level before running motor. do this a couple times to make sure coolant is full and over flow jug is at proper level before hammering on the truck. squeeze upper radiator hose a few times to help burp air. hate to see a HG go cause of air but it happens and have seen it on bone stock trucks because of a egr cooler that was leaking (coolant gets burnt up on the exhaust side but when not running bleeds air into the coolant passages of the motor, air pockets start to steam and create a CRAP load of pressure hence HG popping)
#7
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just that case of beer and a buddy to help git r dun.
FYI- make sure you bleed the cooling system VERY well. Air will get trapped into the block when doing the cooler delete. if you don't get out all the air, you will be increasing the chance of headgasket failure exponentially. take your time. there is a bleeder screw on a coolant pipe near the cooler. remove the screw, fill coolant til it comes out of that hole. install screw. run motor til its hot (operating temp) and check coolant level. make sure your over flow jug is at proper level before running motor. do this a couple times to make sure coolant is full and over flow jug is at proper level before hammering on the truck. squeeze upper radiator hose a few times to help burp air. hate to see a HG go cause of air but it happens and have seen it on bone stock trucks because of a egr cooler that was leaking (coolant gets burnt up on the exhaust side but when not running bleeds air into the coolant passages of the motor, air pockets start to steam and create a CRAP load of pressure hence HG popping)
FYI- make sure you bleed the cooling system VERY well. Air will get trapped into the block when doing the cooler delete. if you don't get out all the air, you will be increasing the chance of headgasket failure exponentially. take your time. there is a bleeder screw on a coolant pipe near the cooler. remove the screw, fill coolant til it comes out of that hole. install screw. run motor til its hot (operating temp) and check coolant level. make sure your over flow jug is at proper level before running motor. do this a couple times to make sure coolant is full and over flow jug is at proper level before hammering on the truck. squeeze upper radiator hose a few times to help burp air. hate to see a HG go cause of air but it happens and have seen it on bone stock trucks because of a egr cooler that was leaking (coolant gets burnt up on the exhaust side but when not running bleeds air into the coolant passages of the motor, air pockets start to steam and create a CRAP load of pressure hence HG popping)
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#10
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Should your user name make me a bit nervous....LOL.
BTW, thanks for your service.
John
#11
I have installed everything on my SIG and all installs went flawless. I drive my truck daily and no issues whatsoever. The 2011 is my 1st Diesel but I have a little experience doing wrench work. I live in James City, right outside of Havelock NC
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