signature600

OK, so I talked to my dealer...said that as long as I'm honest with him about what I do to the truck, he'll take care of me. I trust the guy, since I've only known him about 10 years, and he's been nothing but honest with me.

Basically, I want the engine to last for a few hundred thousand miles...but worried about the tranny warranty...dealer says no problem.


So, I want all the emissions equipment gone...everything. If a good intake plate/horn is in order to make thins thing efficient, that's fine.

Where do I find the 2010 delete parts??
Chris

Blake Clark

2010 Delete procedure will be the same as the 3rd gen 6.7

Tuner wise you are limited to the H&S right now.

Everything you need can be found in the DTR store.

If you need more specifics let me know.

signature600

Cool...wasn't sure how much was different, as I knew there were some programming differences.

Is it worth going all out and getting rid of the throttle valve, intercooler tube, etc?

Chris

Blake Clark

If your dealer is willing to work with you, and you dont have any testing requirements, I would get rid of the whole lot of it.

signature600

He said as long as I tell him what's up, and I don't have a weight rack or anything like that, he won't say a word...of course he also knows me well enough to know I wouldn't do that to him....


I really don't care about anymore power, just mileage and making the engine run clean!
Chris

Mike Holmen

Mine throws codes with the throttle butterfly connection removed (there are ways of fixing that issue). The air horn with pickup 7-12rwhp and a few degrees on egt. As for fuel mileage gains I doubt it. Here is a dyno data for a truck with deletes, black maxx, stock air horn and aftermarket air horn.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=90645

I'm getting the same billet air horn for my truck built as soon as he's done machining my engine. Very nice air horn.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=89680

signature600

Cool, thanks Mike...I was watching over there too.

Fuel mileage is already pretty good on the truck...if I gain more, great...as long as it doesn't go down.


I just don't like it making oil on 5K mile oil changes...hate to see it at 7500 miles like the book says.

Chris

Mike Holmen

I'm thinking about getting one of those billet valve covers for the 6.7L

The guy can put on what ever I want on the valve cover or any logo I want.

I just bought myself a 08 6.7L engine and I want to proto type a few 6.7L pieces.

signature600

Sweet...believe me Mike, I'll be watching your truck....

In fact...would you be interested in trying out a big VGT? I know you're going twins, but I have a 71mm VGT that should be pretty much plug and play that I'm dying to try out on a 6.7L, but I'm not going that far with mine!

Chris

Mike Holmen

We have talked about going that route. Might just throw away the VGT stuff, heard that they are hard on head gaskets.

Which turbo you going with a 4 series or 5 series holset? I can't remember the number. If you can take some pictures for us to drool on. If it works decently I'll consider it.

I just order a set of sticks for my 02, 6X0.022 size, might be time to do a P pump swap.

signature600

HE551VE...71/108 intake wheel.

I ran an older mechanical version with the same wheels on my 12v...with some tuning, I have it able to build 25psi at 1900RPM and launch it at the strip like that...then I decided I was building twins, then sold the truck...I should have stuck with the VGT a bit more.

I can't see this thing being hard on head gaskets...as far as I can tell, the housing goes from either 4cm-31cm, or 9cm-31cm...I get conflicting reports on the small size of the housing....and opened up just halfway on my 12v, even at 4600RPM, she was still pulling HARD! Never choked a bit. I laid down 551/1083 with it, before I got it spooling before 2K RPM...when I did those numbers, it was spooling closer to 23-2400RPM.


I think there is potential...especially with a better head, and more displacement...add in the "factory" control, and I can't see it not working pretty well!

Chris

Mike Holmen

You should measure drive pressure? these VGT's push up the drive pressures pretty good with the stock controller. We thought about doing a mechanical linkage as well. The cylinders on a 6.7L are pretty close together, and don't offer alot of meat to seal-up on the head gasket.

Ya you can oring the 6.7L head, but then the orings would almost be on top of each other.

I have so many other projects on the go...

signature600

I will if I ever put it on something...right now, it's stock + deletes for me!!

Chris

yfdcap

The 2010 is a little different. If using the H&S you do not have to touch anything under the hood if you don't want to. All the egr stuff is turned off with the tuner. The exhaust sensors do still need to be disconnected. Works good.

signature600

Cool, thanks for the info.

Chris