Today we jumped into the EGR/Cooler deletes on my Ram, oh what FUN!

Overall the job went pretty much as others had observed and unlike the Exhaust deletes, there was not a bunch of extra hardware in the way. We started with the intake side per the instructions that accompanied the Sinister EGR delete kit I decided to use. I also printed out the instructions for the H&S kit in order to have a different point of view - just in case. In addition to the "more heads are better than one" thoughts, the instructions that came with the kit are minimal with poor pictures. The H&S instructions are well laid out with excellent photos.

I'm a simple man - I need good pictures.

Expected surprise 1

I started by unhooking all the wiring connectors on both sides and then removing the v-clamp on the left side of the crossover tube, then I removed the small bolt in the center of the tube. Next I unbolted the EGR valve from the intake and removed the valve and the tube as a unit. As it came loose I then got my first look into the left side opening - lots of soot as expected, but what was not expected was the oily wet nature of what was there. So I then removed the v clamp on the EGR valve side. As it was loose I could see that there was a lot more of the wet stuff in that side. Check out the photos;





Here is the EGR valve itself;



I have no idea why this is so wet. If anybody has a clue, please jump in.

Next up is a photo of the intake manifold showing the spaces below the EGR valve. As expected there is a lot of carbon soot in there - about 1/8" overall.



I cleaned the gasket surfaces while sucking up the debris with a vacuum. After it was cleaned up I screwed down the cover plate that I had earlier drilled and tapped for the boost gauge tube. Here it is;



Surprise two. Leaky exhaust manifold/EGR cooler valve gasket

Next up was to remove the exhaust side actuator and valve. Just a handful of bolts, remove the v clamp on the cooler and the front part was loose and I was able to lift it off of the manifold bolts. Then I saw the gasket and the manifold itself for the first time and saw that it was covered with soot directly inline with the v clamp and the manifold gasket. Unlike soot that might have fallen out of the joint, this is splattered like it was wet.



On this next pic you can see the mating/gasket surfaces where the manifold was bolted to the EGR - It looks like it has been leaking too - I'd sure like to know what you think.



Finishing the removal of the EGR cooler was just a matter of keeping with the job and since I wanted to get things tied up before calling it a day, I stopped taking photos. I'll shoot some more tomorrow and add to this. Night all!

 

Looks like the normal disgusting "SOOT" associated with our trucks and not being deleted. Not only will your truck loose some weight but it will run cleaner. UH, if you are looking at these photos and still thinking of deleting, please let us all know why you are still waiting.

I cannot imagine how much better these trucks would be if emissions was not an issue.

 

New2 Diesel.. sad to say.. It comes down to money.. Life takes a turn and kicks ya in the nuts.. Some times ya just can't afford to delete.. I will be pricing it out to do on my 11 .. Hope i can swing it..

 

Can a person run the EGR and Cooler Delete with out a tuner? I'm trying ti figure all of this out..

 

I don't believe so, the truck will throw codes and go into limp mode I think. Another member on here simply unplugged his EGR valve and it ran fine for a few days but eventually de-rated itself and went into limp mode.

 

If you're wanting the cheapest way that does the most, Smarty Jr67me, DPF delete tube ($625). With those two you can unplug all the EGR stuff, but leave it in place until you can pop for the $135 EGR/cooler delete.

Option two is to find Sim plugs that allow you to change out the DPF for a straight pipe - costs about $300 and you can't touch the EGR, which is the problem.

I'd just buy it a piece at a time till its all there. Its worth it. If you can handle wrenches, its a DIY - if you have trouble putting a nut on a bolt, maybe not - you decide. I'm a gimpy old guy in a wheelchair, but I love to do things like this MYSELF.

Just understand, its a one way street as far as warranty goes.

If you don't plan to keep the truck for more than 5 years or over 100k, I would'nt go there. My opinion FWIW.

 

i just sold my 05 (guess i should take that off as well as the 02) with 301000 kms.. yaa it will be a life long truck.. already at 11 months old its at 45500 ish KMs..

As for tools.. not a problem.. It even fits in my garage that was built around the 05 sb cc..

Thanks for all your help....

 

Your in luck buddy and I am here to help. I got a spare H&S EGR Delete sitting in the garage left over from my GDP intake manifold install. If you want it its yours just PM me for details. That ought to save you some $$.


Sorry buddy, no spare tuner.

 

Not to mention if your a bit crafty with a cutting torch and a drill the cooler delete is nothing more than a couple of plates and some hardware you can source at a hardware store. Make a few brackets to support some tubing and your good.

 

Because of this:

In a word: resale. I could be wrong, but I think to most potential buyers would rather have a stock truck that they can delete themselves once the warranty is up than one that has been tinkered with and no warranty.

Until then, I battle the EGR weekly. Unplug it for 16mpg average and clean, fresh air. Plug it in for passing/pulling power and no MIL. I'm gonna' wear that connector out before too long...

 

I seem to get bent over at the border every time i order gear from down there..

 

End mill, Lathe, pipe and tubing benders, plasma cutter,mig, metal rollers and edgers reside in my shop.. Some of it is not very new (think 50's) but works great still...

 

Hey Geek - uhh, pardon me, but go for it! With all that you only need a couple hours to get it all made. It WILL take longer to pull all the junk off. You just need three covers and a hose hook up for the little bypass hose.

 

If you need dimensions and a template for the flange for the DPF delete pipe I have, then you just need 52 inches of 4 inch muffler pipe. I also have an EGR only delete kit that you can have for free. This would enable you to keep the factory intake and boost tube. It does come with a blocker to block off the cross over tube at the cooler but the cooler delete is very simple and you could make it easily. To delete the CCV is less than $10. The expensive bit is the tuner.

 

The DPF delete can be SIM'ed (fooled) and the EGR unplugged (constant CEL), but what can't be overcome without the tuner is the re-gen cycle. You'd end up with a truck going into occasional spasms.