capt.Ron

There is a cross member an inch or so behind connecting flange between the downpipe and the DPF. Getting a 10" muffler between that cross member and truck body will be tight but from the rear edge of the cross member to the factory muffler is 65". Should easily get a 44" long 10" dia in that space.
attached is a list specs. The one marked with the red arrow has the best attenuation but the CFM is quite a bit lower than some of the others. Anyone know what CFM we should look for to make these trucks breath properly?

capt.Ron

I also have this little jewel in my garage to make things easier.

Hillbilly66

Very nice, every one I've done has been on the floor. Other than the 4500 they all had pretty decent ground clearence though. I wasn't thinking about that cross member. I guess if the muffler won't fit you could short pipe it from the down pipe back far enough to get the muffler in. I would strongly recommend using band clamps instead of the ubolt style clamp. As they do not crimp the pipe and will make disassembly a lot easier if you ever need to take the exhaust apart.

capt.Ron

Oh band clamps for sure!!! I want to be able to take it back to stock if we ever end up with emissions testing on diesels.

capt.Ron

From this link I can assume that our factory intakes will provide 675 CFM. Does anyone know how that would convert to exhaust flow requirements? It's an assumption based on a guess but I would think the exhaust would need to be able to flow more because it's expanded from heat but if this is so how much? Anyone know the answer?

LeeS

2011 Laramie 2500 4x4 auto with Smarty Jr.

Replaced exhaust system from the turbo to stock muffler with a delete kit. I did remove the EGR motor actuator.

I still get the following codes:P049C, P242F, P2463, and P1451. I deleted them with the Smarty Jr. but they still come back. The system was showing "Filter full, reduced mode" whem I started the delete project.

How do I solve this problem?

Hillbilly66

I don't know much about the smarty, but a friend of mine had a similar issue with a h&s. He resolve his issue by using the return to stock (not sure if worded just like that) option on the tuner, then reinstalling the delete tune.

LeeS

Thanks, but I tried that and it didn't work

Hillbilly66

You're welcome. I know this will be a silly question, but do you have all the sensors that were in the exhaust unplugged? I only ask because I've seen guys get a pipe with bungs and put the sensors back in and plug them in.

LeeS

Thanks, I have tried it both ways. Unplugged I get all kinds of codes, plugged in I only geet the 4 listed. Maybe this is a smarty version problem.

rbrdriver

Are you sure the smarty jr you are using has the software needed for deleting? I have the race me which does have it and I have had no problems. I didn't think the smarty jr was delete capable, only for tuning with all the emission items still in place.

Blamo

Figured this is the best place for this question. I have spent numerous hours researching all of the DPF and EGR delete posts (most are old) and have yet to see any that answer this question. Is there any way to disable just the EGR and run an EPA Friendly tuner with the DPF left alone?


I am holding off on doing the deletes until after the elections next year. I figure the EPA has done so much in the last 8 years that, if we have 8 more years with another left wing lib, the EPA will be pushing emissions compliant check road blocks. Also, I am not having any issues with the DPF and it will only gain an extra 15 to 20 ponies.


I do however have a huge issue with the EGR. Its like going for a run breathing in partial hot farts? Not sure why anyone would think that an EGR is a good idea. My truck is a 2012 Dodge Dually 3500 and right now I am just running a Smarty JR (EPA version with no deletes)


Can I just do the spring removal and unplug the EGR? I can just clear the Check Engine light code from time to time with the Smarty right? Or will I end up going into Limp Mode? Does anyone just sell the EGR simulator? Let me know your thoughts.

rbrdriver

I am not sure what happens when you unplug the egr actuator while running a tuner, but on a stock truck what happens is the computer will throw a "soft" code, but will not throw you into limp mode. It also will derate your horsepower approximately 40 h.p., but you probably won't even notice that.

Pooter

On a 2010 it would work to unplug the EGR, on a 2012 you cant. Has to be tuned out. Either have to run the ME tunes for smarty (if you dont have one of the newer US serial models that wont allow it from what I hear), use a Raceme OR another tuner that can delete the EGR (many of the EFI tuner companies can write their own tune for you).

I just deleted my DPF/Nox/Cat on my 2012, running the 100ohm sims for now until I can get EGR delete/gauges/tune next year to delete the EGR also.

You could ask some of the tuners to see if they could give you a stock power level tune and delete the EGR but youll still improve fuel economy with a mild tune anyway 40-80, some running the 100-120 get even better if you keep your foot out of it.

Busboy

If you leave the DPF installed and don't clean it, as in regenerate then it will become plugged, they cost around $4000 each.