2010 with 35" tires and mods
 

Hey guys,

I am considering selling my 05 (which has been a great truck) and getting a new 2010.

I would like to run 35" tires with 4.10 gears on the 2010. Anyone have any pictures and fitment comments? What do I need to run 35s without issues (no dashboard air pressure warning lights, no CEL lights, etc).

Also does Smarty or anyone make a simple tuner to add a little bit of power but remain "low key" and reliable in an otherwise stone stock truck.

Thanks guys

[coffee]

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35's with just a leveling kit.

Roger, don't forget to mention that you had to do a little trimming to get those 35's to not rub at the limits...(but dang that truck looks good!)
Igor - read some of the other posts regarding rear end ratios - if you're not doing some heavy-duty towing the 4:10's may be overkill for you.

almost forgot. to prevent any rubbing at full turn i had to tie the finder liner back a little. no trimming though.

They hit on my 04 also but does not hurt anything its just plastic. What kind of lift did you go with on the 10?? I have a 3" pro comp.
Think I might get a new one soon.

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I saw an article in the last issue of diesel world on a new dodge that came factory with 35s. its sweet. and its not the power wagon either. has a ctd. all kinds of extras

Ditto on this, 3.73 with the 68RE is a sweet setup, even with 35's. Add a Smarty in the mix and you have plenty to go round....

More shots of Rogs truck, sittin next to mine...

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Both trucks required similar trimming to prevent rubbing at full lock. Both have the same leveling kit. Mine will still rub some on a hard bounce while turning offroad. Its take a good bit to make it rub though, wont rub any on the street.

And for the record, I cant stand Rog's truck.....


It makes me want to go get a new one...... [laugh][laugh]

If you can't stand it, why do you have the same wheels? (LOL)

Cause he got to em before I could....

[laugh]

IMO trimming for 35's is ONLY required if you have the wrong offset wheels. I ran 35's on stock wheels for quite a while with NO leveling kit!! Good luck...

Looks like you have a third gen truck - the original post was talking about a fourth gen truck - different geometry, and besides, there is no "wrong offset" - just different offsets...

So...... and I am sure this has been asked & answered somewhere on here before, but for a newbie & simpleton like me ...... what's the largest size tire & wheel I can put on a 2010 25004wd without changing anything else ?

Thanks in advance for your responses

Stock only I'd say 35's and you may experience a slight bit of rubbing in some offroad situations.

Stock wheels and a leveling kit and no worries.

Any bigger than 35's and you should lift it some.

Well pardon me Mr. Moderator!!!!!!!!!!!! Just sharing my own experiences.... Maybe you should hand out them "know it all" pills to everyone......

I wonder what size he can do without a leveling kit? Think 35's would still fit?

I think on the factory wheels he would be ok.

Had a friend with an 08 Mega that had 35x12.50 with no level and they only rubbed slightly in off camber situations.

The 2010's are so similar to the 3rd gens there is no reason to think they wouldnt perform the same.

When I first read this I thought, "naw..." because there is a lot that is different on the gen's - but when I look at your pics of the two gen's side-by-side, the wheel well sizes around the tires look very to be VERY similar. Maybe the only issue with no leveling and 35's would be at the inside back corner on a turn, as that seemed to be somewhat close even with stock wheels/tires?

I have an 07 dodge and had 35x12.50x20s toyo open country mts and the series xd 20" black monster rims. I took them off of my truck for now and put them on our 2010 dodge 3/4 ton long bed 4x4. I have a leveling kit on my 07 and just installed the same leveling kit on the 2010. It never rubbed on my 07 at all, but the monster black rims have the perfect offset (can't remember off the top of my head). When I installed them on the 2010 it only rubs on the driver side...and its just hitting the plastic on the inner fender. Ill try to post a pic of it this weekend on here but why would it only be rubbing on one side? I checked the distance from the tire to the fender on each side and its the same. Could the plastic be off by that much? Thanks

Actually most of the chassis and drive train, suspension etc is all a carry over. A lift that works on a 3rd will work for a 4th gen. Rogers B&W turnover ball was ordered for an '09

The cab suspension is new, and all the sheet metal and interior is new, but the blood and guts are pretty much the same.

In my case, the troubles I had with my last 3rd gen were all interior (like the heat/aircon direct door, repeated driver door panel failure, etc.) or noise and such - all things that were changed for the 4th gen. So I really see and appreciate the differences. As for the drivetrain, since my last 3rd gen had a lift kit, the ride was compromised, while the 4th gen is stock (except for leveling block) so it feels significantly better ... interesting to hear it's (blood and guts = drivetrain?) essentially the same as 3rd gen.

Yeah I mean the drive train and a majority of the undercarriage. The 4th gens are ridiculous nice. Thats what I meant about Rog's truck, makes me sick cause I get that urge every time I drive it...

For the record, I love that truck! [laugh]

That's why I stay away from showroom floors unless I'm ready to dump the cash there - that urge is too hard to resist. Why not work a deal with Roger to trade trucks once a month for a weekend...LOL

Normally do, we both have access to each others trucks whenever we want. Just been working away lately.

That's a sign of true friends - letting each other drive each others' trucks! Pretty much all of my friends I'd trust to drive mine won't - they either hate driving bigger vehicles, or hate being the designated driver.
Hope you get back home for the Holiday!

What gears do you guys have and what kind of rpm's do you run with the taller tires?

I love all the misinformation out there. I have a 2010 and 35's rub unless you trim and or put a leveling kit on it. Also if you get after market rims, watch what off set you get or you have to lift even more. I put a 6" lift on mine and no rubbing. When you go with 35's, the truck does show low pressure, except for some times when the pressure builds up on the highway due to heat. You have to be over 50 PSIG to not have the light go on and then you have to have the switch in low pressure mode, and still it comes on sometimes. Hope this helps

If you were to properly adjust your tire pressure for the TPMS system you would not have that problem.

You can properly adjust the tire pressure all you want but if you are not over 50 PSIG which is slightly higer than 35's are rated for, the light appears. You can't get Class E tires in 35's or above.

I'm afraid you're wrong.

I know you are trying to help, but you may have been misinformed, or just be unaware.

SEVERAL tire options in Load Range E in 35" and ABOVE, including, but not limited to:

Toyo Open Country MT in sizes up to 37x12.50


Nitto Trail Grappler in sizes up to 38x13.50

Nitto Mud Grappler in sizes up to 38x13.50

Just to name a few.

All are more than capable of being ran at the required 60psi front and 45 psi rear (light load) or 70psi (heavy load) required for the TPMS.

Yes you can get them in 37's and 38's but I have never found class "E" in 35's. To go with the 37's or 38's you have to go up with a lift

Ive got a set of 35x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country MT Load Range E sittin outside on my truck. Would you like a pic?

Thanks Blake, Dont know why I was told by 4 different people I could not get them last year unless I went up in rim size. I looked at Toyo's sight after getting your replay and sure if they are not there 35x12.5x15LT Class E.

No problem bud!

Are you sure you didnt typo that last bit too?

35x12.5x15 Toyo MT's are a Class C, and 15" wheels wont exactly make it on your '10.

Must have meant a different size.

any issues with front ends after installing the leveling kits? i pick up my daystar 2" front and 1.5" rear lift, friday. i am now hearing all of this negative feedback on the leveling kits. but most seems to stem from the 1500....any issues with the 2500/3500's? i would think not due to the straight axles...

thanks for any input.
BTW..i run 315 Toyo MT's on my 2010 2500...with no rubbing at all. going to a 35x12.50x17 Baja Claw next week.

No problems with the two inch leveling kit on my 2010. Got 34's on 20's, and no issues other than the heavier unsprung weight can be detected with stock spring/shock combo - looking to get better shocks in the near future. (my last CTD had a dual shock mount as part of the lift up front - the four shocks up front addressed the heavier unsprung weight)(too bad nobody sells this without the full lift kit)

got the Daystar 2" level for the front and the Pro Fab 1.5" for the rear. went to install it and in the instructions it says i MUST replace shocks with longer ones. although it makes complete sense, i didnt realize this, nor did the truck shop that i bought it from for they said everything was there to do the lift. can i use the stock shocks?

many people use stock shocks uncluding myself. A longer set probably would be the better route to go eventually but it wont hurt to leave the stockers on for now

www.thurenfabrication.com. On the "products page" there's a pic of Don's truck w/37's I believe.

My Toyo MTs are 35s and are E rated.

Tobin

well with snow in the forecast....the 35" baja claws are on hold till spring...:(
got the lift in. looks ten times better! thanx for the help guys!

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