thegoat86

Left a reply on an older thread, hoping to get an answer quickly. I am concerned about buying a new truck with the EGR and intake sooting and plugging issues. I read alot of the threads here and the resounding answer seems to be; buy new truck delete everything. That sounds great and all, but I am one of the many unfortunates who can't afford to buy a $45-50K truck and immediatly void the warranty. I love the truck. I test drove an auto and fell in love with the ride and handling. Although the truck I buy will have the G56. But with reading about major intake plugging at 7-10K miles does not bode well. I do not like to take my trucks to the dealer ever. Little less to be doing it every other month so they can clean my intake. Can only imagine how the intake valves will look. It seems to be either that or the deletes. Has anyone here thought of a simple glycol injection system? Maybe plumbed in before the EGR? I know based on my gramps cleaning his old diesel by pouring anitfreeze into the intake and walah! cleaned intake and cylinders. Would this be bad for the DPF in some way? Maybe cause the truck to lean or enrich the wrong way trying to compensate for heat perameters? I am a novice and usually hang out with my 98 p-pumped 12v which will be up for sale here as soon as I make this deal. (sipping coffee waiting for reply)

Spooler

Yes, the antifreeze would be a very bad thing. DPF's aren't cheap.

thegoat86

Kinda figured that. Still needing some opinions on the gly inj system.

Mike Holmen

glyco is hard on rings. There is lots of stuff out there to clean the intake system. Dodge has solvents for that, they work ok, just to get them to do usual service work.

If you do your own work, why worry about warranty. Most of the stock dodge stuff is the first stuff you rip off. My truck has never been back to the dealer yet.

Regardless of brand all diesels have egr systems, just the facts its on all new diesel truck or don't buy a diesel The next gen emission stuff will be def, they regen less than the dry emission systems.

thegoat86

Hmmm...... A 3K turbo, a 2.5K+ fuel pump, 1K+ for a set of stock injectors, spinning a bearing, oil pump issues, various electrical issues, computer flashes, any number of things that may pop up. If I am clearing $700 a month in payments, I know I would have to park the truck until I saved money to buy even one of these things. I am as handy as the next novice with mechanic work. But anything I have ever done to upgrade or repair myself, was on trucks I paid cash for.

Seems as though guys here are touting the ultra reliability of the new cummins engine so much so they are willing to give up their warranties. Or they just have trust funds.....

Mike Holmen

hmm, hate to ask are you running gasoline in your truck? Sorry but WOW thats a long list of stuff to fail. Let me know where you are buying all six 6.7L injectors for $1000. Been driving ctd engines for over 15 years, have never spun a bearings but have broke a transmission housing in half.

thegoat86

Erring on the side of caution. These seem to be the most prodominant failures on these engines. I am getting these from some of the 4th gen boards here. I run the truck in my sig. I have had zero failures on my truck. The worst issue I have had is the steering which is common on 2nd gens. The truck has been faithful and has towed anything and everything I have hooked to it without any complaints. Unfortunatly, it came from new england. The cab mounts, fenders, and bed fenders have now succumbed to cancer. I opted for finding a donor truck and swapping cabs and beds. Or I can pull the trigger on a new truck with four doors.

I am one of those guys who researches everything to death. I researched the 98' for six months before I purchased the right one. (thats why I got the 12v p-pump) So I started looking here first. Found the EGR sooting issue to be the most popular cause of issues for the 10',11',12' 6.7 trucks. I would be the one guy to write a thread here saying that my engine puked a valve after I voided my warranty. It happens. And I tend to have a black cloud.

Mike Holmen

Judging by your old truck, you'll do fine with a new truck (leave it stock or near stock), but if you drive like an idiot you can ruin any truck. Leave the truck stock, and just do your service at the dealer. The new truck will out tow the old truck. and the interior rocks. I have tons of spare parts for my 2010 and 02, like engines, transmissions, starters, t-cases and so on.

I've owned, fixed and broken it only to have to fix it again. I use my truck for work and have to drive a diesel, as fuel costs would kill me for work. During the winter I wonder why sometimes.

I leave me H&S tuner on stock mode during towing and drive around on mild or hot empty, just cause I get better fuel mileage. My fuel bill will range from $500 to $2500 per month, so I did the delete.

If you just small rust issues on the old truck, just replace the panels and repaint. Save your money instead of buying a new truck. EPA has really caused issues and blame should fall on there shoulders, not cummins.

Even the mighty 12V has issues.

thegoat86

KDP only for me. Pinned, no issues. 225K still on mech lift pump. The huge loss was the cab mounts in the front. Completly collapsed after my truck ate an import. Most of the drivers floor is gone, passengers is next. Both corners are rotten. Sill is rotten, fenders above all tires rotten. Too much to fix. I would just find a donor 1500 with good sheet metal.

Don't have a trust fund to pay for any serious damage if I voided the warranty.

Tuners show up on the ECM. I am reading a few things on the boards about how to defeat EGR and turn off regen for a little while. Still researching the cool mist system. I can only believe that it would prevent the soot buildup in the intake and further on. Leaving it on a very modest setting shouldn't effect anything I can think of. I did read something about the regen process closes off the intake? Then the glycol would run down the boost tube?

fatbillybob

antifreeze has silicones in it which kill 02 sensors which are 100 bucks each. maybe another product that is sensor safe. Maybe seafoam??

thegoat86

Sorry using wrong terminology. windshield washer fluid, methanol not glycol.

RAMRODD

When a 6.7 cummins goes into regen the EGR system shuts off at this time.

Spraying windshield water from what I have been told wont help with sooting. It will cool and add more power, and of course it produces no soot.

Mike Holmen

I've run water/methanol on my 02 truck for 6 years now, with no issues. Even stock the new 6.7L engine will be fine. Worst case after the warranty is done with, you do a delete. Remove the head and replace with a new/rebuilt head. Seen a bunch of them getting decent life out of them.

Buy another used cummins. Lots to pick from. Seen a bunch of clean early 3rd gen sold as of late. Most only need minor repairs to bring them back to 100%

The 6.7L design is very close to the old 5.9L CR, just minor differences.

thegoat86

Going to talk to a senior service tech at the dealership tomorrow. Will update with my findings.

thegoat86

Talked to the service manager at Ferman dodge in Lutz florida. He was very helpful. His major complaint was the sulfer content or lack thereof is causing most of the sooting. The throttle plate does close off the intake during regen. That is why the soot backs up into the turbo tubes and part of the turbo. So essentially the truck runs like crap because the turbo is not being used. Almost naturally aspirated during the regen process. He also informed me just doing the EGR and DPF delete will not void a warranty. Only changing the exhaust system as a whole would void the warranty. However doing these deletes then running a tuner would. And then only the engine. Nothing else would void. The reason is they do not know how the tuner is setting power levels and putting stress on the motor. He eluded to the fact that I could get these done by the dealer... But I don't think that is what he meant. Anyways, I am more comfortable buying the truck now armed with this info. The oil sooting is caused by the EGR and regen. He stated whenever a truck has come through with sooting, they do a full clean and he has never seen sooting on the valves. A 2012 only gets the 6yr 75,000 mile engine warranty. The engine new from the dealer runs $6-7K short block. So I am going down to order tomorrow. I hope this helps anyone on the fence about getting this truck. I also did a little research on the kits to delete the EGR DPF, the most cost effective I have come across will run about $1500. smarty jr tuner, 5" aluminized MBRP ex, H&S delete kit.