4th Gen Engine and Drivetrain-2010 and Up 6.7 liter Engine and Drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

What Oil do you use and why?

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Old 01-24-2011, 05:42 PM
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AMsoil 10/40 in my current truck, 2009 1ton 6.7L 4x4, with 37k miles, I change it every 15k for good measure.

I used it in my 05 also up until it got stolen.

As for the "pyramid" heart burn, you have to pay to be a dealer of sorts for pretty much anything you sell or hope to sell products/services for. I split the cost with a couple of friends for the 5 year preffered customer plan and I order oil for all of us. It works out great for all of us and we get the 15-20% off.... Beats going to the corner dealer and paying full retail for it. I just order it online from amsoils website and it delivers to me the next day. I occasionaly have some other people that want some oil from them too so I just order my oil at the same time and they pay full shipping cost....
Old 01-24-2011, 09:58 PM
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I think asking what oil you use is EXTREMELY dependent on whether or not you have an intact egr/dpf system. I don't know if anybody is running a bypass system on an emissions truck but I'd be curious as to whether or not it can handle the intense amounts of garbage being dumped in the oil. I still say if you have all the emissions (and no bypass setup) then synthetic is a complete waste of money because the detergents in the oil will be overloaded way before the "oil" in the oil is close to breaking down.
Old 01-24-2011, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dmurdock
I think asking what oil you use is EXTREMELY dependent on whether or not you have an intact egr/dpf system. .... a bypass system on an emissions truck.
So you feel that without the deletes - synth is useless. (If I'm miss saying this please help - I'm learning fast but have a wat to go yet) OK

My inital plan is to run Rotella T since I've not yet received anything to change that notion. Do I understand that the EGR and other systems that the deletes remove/bypass dump loads of exhust crap into the oil????

That seems only dumb enough to be a government plan.

I was not planning to delete the truck very fast but this might change my plans - I just hate to flush the warrenty.
Old 01-24-2011, 11:12 PM
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WHy would you change it if its still good?? Seems like a waste. The Amsoil Guy told us you nver need to change it thats the point of Synth. His truck had over 250,000miles and he said he never changes the oil. Just add when it needs it and change the filters.


Great question! I feel we all have our personal limits; in my case the copper levels were elevated due to leaching of oil cooler. Even though the lab said it was suitable for continued use - I set me personal limitations at a lower level. As was noted oil is cheap compared to engines. However, your Amsoil guy is correct as long as he is pulling a sample annually and his oil is suitable for continued use.
Re: the DPF equipped engines in pickups - it is true that they need their oil changed per manufactures recommended interval - even with Amsoil or any other synthetic for that matter - unless you use oil analysis. These engines are prone to fuel dilution since they inject raw fuel into the exhaust stroke to regenerate the DPF. That is part of the reason they make better mileage after the delete (even with a 120 HP increase). Then if you want to extend your oil change interval, you can install a by-pass oil filter, analyse your oil regularly, and go for it!
Old 01-25-2011, 11:46 AM
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I use Rotella cuz my brother and I have a business and we have 5 powerstroke fords (7.3l and 6.0l) and thats what we use... dont know if it is the best but i has keep our engines running, we do oil changes every 6k miles, it always comes out clean.
Old 01-25-2011, 12:35 PM
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i was told years ago by an honest oil salesman that if ones oil did not get black it wasnt doing its job. it is supposed to pick up the junk and carbon and get it to the filter. one cant filter carbon i know but i own 5 diesels 4 with known good engines in them and the oil gets black in less than a 1000 mi. true or not i would have trusted this man with my life.
Old 01-25-2011, 12:49 PM
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the engine oil always come out black... at least from my trucks lol
Old 01-25-2011, 01:44 PM
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The oil gets dirty from soot build-up. Usually my oil just starts to get dark around the 5000-6000k mark. Depends on what size injectors I run. My 2010 can go 8000 miles and the oil is only slightly dark. Before the delete, the oil was black at the 20-30 mile mark.
Old 01-25-2011, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Holmen
The oil gets dirty from soot build-up. Usually my oil just starts to get dark around the 5000-6000k mark. Depends on what size injectors I run. My 2010 can go 8000 miles and the oil is only slightly dark. Before the delete, the oil was black at the 20-30 mile mark.
This is an excellent example of what I'm saying...there are many different reasons why "motor oil" would need to be changed and synthetic oil extends the drain time because the oil itself (just the oil, not the oil + additives which is what we call "motor oil") doesn't wear out as fast as petroleum oil. The problem with emissions trucks is that so much crap is dumped in the "motor oil" that the other stuff (additives/detergents) are used up (thus the need for an oil change) way before the actual oil is worn out so having synthetic oil doesn't buy you anything.

FYI I'm not making an argument to delete or not delete (I don't like the emissions crap but at this point it's not going away and at least on the later models it's actually pretty reliable).
Old 01-25-2011, 05:56 PM
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Yes you will get sludge build-up, if you don't delete. Seen a few high miler 6.7L to know that much. Problem, is oil usually doesn't cause a the typical engine failure. Injector or faulty electronic stuff will kill an engine way faster than dirty oil. You can run cheap oil or run the best stuff. Change oil often or forget about. Only seen one failure from dirty oil. Require 15W40 oil, must been 30-50000 miles on the oil. The oil looked like molasses than oil. Never seen oil that bad. Still the bearing rods/mains still in good shape.

Plugged the oil squirter cooling jets, melted a piston.

For $100 of oil vs $6000 engine, you choose...
Old 01-25-2011, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Holmen
Yes you will get sludge build-up, if you don't delete. Seen a few high miler 6.7L to know that much. Problem, is oil usually doesn't cause a the typical engine failure. Injector or faulty electronic stuff will kill an engine way faster than dirty oil. You can run cheap oil or run the best stuff. Change oil often or forget about. Only seen one failure from dirty oil. Require 15W40 oil, must been 30-50000 miles on the oil. The oil looked like molasses than oil. Never seen oil that bad. Still the bearing rods/mains still in good shape.

Plugged the oil squirter cooling jets, melted a piston.

For $100 of oil vs $6000 engine, you choose...
Sounds like a justification for 5,000 mile oil changes. No arguement from me.

How many quarts of oil do these need for a change?? $100 sounds like a lot of oil @ $13 a gallon.
Old 01-25-2011, 08:49 PM
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at my local dodge dealer i just got a deal for 15 (labor and filter) the oil was 53 for 5gallons of rotella (i got 1/2 jug back for the next change). so more less 55 to 60 dlls for the change... not bad i think
Old 01-25-2011, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by gerch85
at my local dodge dealer i just got a deal for 15 (labor and filter) the oil was 53 for 5gallons of rotella (i got 1/2 jug back for the next change). so more less 55 to 60 dlls for the change... not bad i think
About 11 quarts or 2.77 gallons of oil. I included the price of the premium oil filter from cummins, when ever I do an oil change. I buy oil by the pail-20 quart pail or 5 gallons. High end full synthenic 5W40. Good stuff.
Old 01-26-2011, 10:43 AM
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Amsoil & Royal Purple

I have run both Amsoil & Royal Purple in both my diesel trucks...I see & hear no differnece in engine performance between the two. Either is an adequate choice.
Old 01-26-2011, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gerch85
at my local dodge dealer i just got a deal for 15 (labor and filter) the oil was 53 for 5gallons of rotella (i got 1/2 jug back for the next change). so more less 55 to 60 dlls for the change... not bad i think
I just checked with our local dealer - $116 for oil change and filter. We can change it for much less ourselves. Maybe not in the snows of winter but for certain in the summer.

I think I'll get a barrel of oil, I have a pump. That should cover my truck for 2-3 years, I think. Rural King has it for $549 a 55 gallon barrel - the price of 5 oil changes - plus the filters. 18 oil changes if my math is right.


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