how often do u change your oil?
#16
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Yes almost any modification you do has the potential to void your warranty. There are delete kits to safely remove the egr or disable it. But you will have an engine light unless you get a programmer such as H&S or Smarty or sims which plug into the unplugged connections to fool the computer. If you look at the very top of the main page of the Ram 2500-3500 HD discussion there is a whole section with advice on deletes. Also do a search for unplugging the egr.
#19
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You can take any diesel engine that doesn't burn oil when the oil starts to break down that is when you start to use oil. That is what the 100,000 mile oil change cummins is doing. I had a 8.3 cummins wouldn't use a drop of oil until after 250 hours at 300 hours you could add a half gallon after that if you didn't change the oil every fuel fill you would add a little. My 2010 JD 7230 does about the same. Won't use any oil till 300 hours.
I am running 5-40 rotella synthetic in my 2010 first 10,000 was dino 15-40 for break-in. I will run 10K oil and filter changes from here on out. Last time I changed the oil and I started the truck to check for leaks I rechecked the oil level and the oil was perfectly clean. Have to love no egr
Factory recomends fuel filter changes at 15K unless its acting plugged I see no point in changing it Lucky for us 2010 and newer trucks the fuel filter is 20 bucks cheaper then the 07-09 6.7's fuel filter
I am running 5-40 rotella synthetic in my 2010 first 10,000 was dino 15-40 for break-in. I will run 10K oil and filter changes from here on out. Last time I changed the oil and I started the truck to check for leaks I rechecked the oil level and the oil was perfectly clean. Have to love no egr
Factory recomends fuel filter changes at 15K unless its acting plugged I see no point in changing it Lucky for us 2010 and newer trucks the fuel filter is 20 bucks cheaper then the 07-09 6.7's fuel filter
#20
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It is my understanding that the sulfur left from the combustion of diesel fuel eventually produces sulfuric acid in the motor oil. This acid will eventually attack metals in the engine. This may be less of a problem with the low sulfur fuel but I would hesitate to extend the manufacturer’s oil change interval.
#21
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I know you guys are going to think I'm NUTS, but on my 03 3500 I have been changing oil at 85,000 Mile intervals. I use Amsoil 15w40 Marine diesel synthetic oil with a dual remote filter ( 1 full flow and 1 Bypass). I pull an analysis every 25,000 miles and if the analysis says the oil is okay for continued use , I just change the filters and bring the oil back to full and re-sample 25,000 miles later. The only reason I change at 85000 is that my copper level was elevated - possibly due to leaching from my lube oil cooler. In any case it wasn't bearing material as all the other metal levels were low.
I just did a total delete on my 07 2500 so I plan on going to the same program with it since I am no longer required to use CJ-4 oil (which has a TBN of 8 VS. 12 on the 15W40 Marine Diesel oil)
I just did a total delete on my 07 2500 so I plan on going to the same program with it since I am no longer required to use CJ-4 oil (which has a TBN of 8 VS. 12 on the 15W40 Marine Diesel oil)
#22
After I read this I downloaded the owners manual and looked at the service intervals section. Each interval has a place for "Work Order Nummber" and "Signature Authorized Chrysler Dealer" to sign off.
Does this mean that I'll have a potential warrenty problem if I (my son really) do my own basic services?
Does this mean that I'll have a potential warrenty problem if I (my son really) do my own basic services?
I take the receipt for the purchase of the appropriate oil and filter, write down the total mileage on the vehicle and total mileage/engine hrs since last oil change. I staple that to my documented maintenance paperwork that I received when I purchased the truck brand new.
ON THE OTHER HAND, I am a full delete guy so a warranty is not at the top of my list.
#23
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Rotella T is 12.99 a gallon here. A filter is about 10 bucks. 50 dollar 15 min oil change in my own shop.
I just cant see leaving oil in a vehicle for 50, 70, 80, 100k miles, I dont care how good the manufacturer claims it is.
When deleted I change oil at 5k.
Peace of mind well worth it.
I just cant see leaving oil in a vehicle for 50, 70, 80, 100k miles, I dont care how good the manufacturer claims it is.
When deleted I change oil at 5k.
Peace of mind well worth it.
#24
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Rotella T is 12.99 a gallon here. A filter is about 10 bucks. 50 dollar 15 min oil change in my own shop.
I just cant see leaving oil in a vehicle for 50, 70, 80, 100k miles, I dont care how good the manufacturer claims it is.
When deleted I change oil at 5k.
Peace of mind well worth it.
I just cant see leaving oil in a vehicle for 50, 70, 80, 100k miles, I dont care how good the manufacturer claims it is.
When deleted I change oil at 5k.
Peace of mind well worth it.
#25
DELVAC still 9.98 a gallon at Wally World. I am still using MOPAR filters but when my full delete is done I am going to get something a little better.
Any horror stories with DELVAC? Thats what I am currently using but would change if someone has a reason why. Truck only has 6000 miles on it though.
Any horror stories with DELVAC? Thats what I am currently using but would change if someone has a reason why. Truck only has 6000 miles on it though.
#26
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Any of you guys run fuel conditioner? Trying to figure out if its worth it or not. I have run it, and pulled injectors to see what the nozzles look like. Tried not running it and looking at the nozzles. I could hardly tell the difference between running it or not.
Sorry for jacking the thread, but I thought it would increase the chance to get information from guys that do their own maintaince.
Sorry for jacking the thread, but I thought it would increase the chance to get information from guys that do their own maintaince.
#27
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Any of you guys run fuel conditioner? Trying to figure out if its worth it or not. I have run it, and pulled injectors to see what the nozzles look like. Tried not running it and looking at the nozzles. I could hardly tell the difference between running it or not.
Sorry for jacking the thread, but I thought it would increase the chance to get information from guys that do their own maintaince.
Sorry for jacking the thread, but I thought it would increase the chance to get information from guys that do their own maintaince.
Jim W.
#28
is there a reason why my oil change due reminder comes on every 2500? is it because here in hawaii we do a lot of stop and go driving? that's what my service advisor at dodge told me. he said it should get to longer intervals after the engine breaks in.
#29
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My oild due reminder came up two weeks after the dealer change the oil (about 800 miles)... i reset the light but is there a reason why it came up?? or its just the trip computer (it turned on at 5100 miles)
#30
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I think we should also ask how many guys have ruined engine, from not doing an oil service. I have a 98-12V 180HP one with a melted piston, the engine oil at room temperature was like as grease. Also had a fram oil filter on it. The oil squirter plugged up and the piston got hot. I have no clue on how many miles on that oil change, but oil does break down. If the oil is no longer able to remove soot build-up, you will get build-up. That engine proved that. I also have a 6.7L engine that has 110000 miles on it (out of a 7.5 C&C4500) and wasn't deleted. It wasn't pretty inside.
These newer truck adds an extra firing event (post combustion), to promote extra egt's just so your dpf/cat can clean-up the particulant better. Diesel isn't as good lubricant as oil is.
These newer truck adds an extra firing event (post combustion), to promote extra egt's just so your dpf/cat can clean-up the particulant better. Diesel isn't as good lubricant as oil is.