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Going from a 2012 to a 2013, hope I made the right choice!?!

Old 05-13-2017, 05:45 AM
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Going from a 2012 to a 2013, hope I made the right choice!?!

Well fellas I have to say my 2012 was hands down the best Truck I have owned. That said the 13.02 mpg running average over the last 3 years and the 3200 mile oil changes were beginning to wear on me. Now before you start I have had one of these trucks for many years and I don't expect 20 but 13 is a bit low.
Loved the 3.73 gears set and the fact I never made a trip to the dealer or had a CEL.
So that's what worries me, I got a great deal from a private seller (no dealer involved = $$$ saved). But the 13+ seem to have a fair amount of emissions related CEL. And before we get started I am not a delete fan, I think the SCR/DEF system is leaps and bounds above the previous system on my 12.

I hope I don't have any issues, but with my luck it's going to light up like a Christmas tree on the way home.Lol.
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Old 05-13-2017, 05:46 AM
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Old 05-13-2017, 05:49 AM
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So 2013 DRW 4x4 (their went my mpg saving, ha) 80k miles, all service records and complete fluid service at 60k to include everything. New tire and ball joints last month. Balance of a Chrysler Maxcare 120k warranty till 2021.

I lowered my loan amount by $2k and used no out of pocket cash.

Got the truck for $30k

Think I did pretty well???
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Old 05-13-2017, 05:58 AM
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Doesn't sound bad at all. I've been happy with my 15. With DRW and 3.73's I have averaged 14.9mpg hand calculated in the 24000 miles I've got on it mostly around town with a bit of highway and a bit of towing my gooseneck and fiver. If I keep my foot out of it when towing I can get about 12 on the highway. 18 empty on the highway.
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:44 PM
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so why do you have 3200 mile oil changes? that's too often. it's a total waste of oil!
i don't even change my nissan that often
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:52 AM
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Because the 12 uses fuel to create heat for the regen process, that fuel seeps past and cause fuel dilution in the oil. Very, Very bad. You can buy all the bypass filters you want to filter out the added soot, you can't get the fuel out once it's there.
It's a known common issue. The only way to avoid it is to change it more frequently.
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Old 05-16-2017, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RyeThomas View Post
Because the 12 uses fuel to create heat for the regen process, that fuel seeps past and cause fuel dilution in the oil. Very, Very bad. You can buy all the bypass filters you want to filter out the added soot, you can't get the fuel out once it's there.
It's a known common issue. The only way to avoid it is to change it more frequently.
Yep, my '11 was guilty of the same. Got sick of the "Change Oil" light popping off every 3,000 miles and 12mpg. My '15 is SOOOOO much better!

(of course, if you delete a '10-'12 then you're fine)

Sounds/looks like you found a winner, $30k? Wow! That's a steal.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:54 PM
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2013+ has the same regeneration process, will add fuel to the oil just the same
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Old 05-19-2017, 05:05 AM
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No it has SCR and uses DEF to greatly reduce the amount of both active and passive regens. It is no where near the same.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by joem View Post
2013+ has the same regeneration process, will add fuel to the oil just the same
6.7L Cummins Emissions System Explained

Scroll down to the bottom of the page for a quick overview or take a look on the web, lots of detailed info on how SCR works and the benifits.
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Old 05-26-2017, 05:28 AM
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Just wanted to post up some thoughts after owning her a short while.
My lie o meter is still out of its mind, good news is I hand calculate and log every mile I've driven (all the way back to my 06's so I have lots) so soon I will have some real data to show but early estimates are a very decent increase! This is funny because the truck is much larger and heavier, guess CAD, SCR, and 3.42s are working as they advertised.
Driving impressions, the 3.42 doesn't get up and go like the 3.73 but it's not lacking either. The trans shift pattern/exhaust brake seem to engage less often or not as quickly or downshift as hard but once on and locked seem stronger. They just aren't as aggressive so it seems they don't work as well till they decide to engage then she stops quick. I'm wondering if this is to save some mileage as well, IDK.
I'm towing my dump trailer today so I should have some towing results, but I expect nothing but good.
The truck does sit higher in the rear than all my others so I'm going to have to purchase a slight drop hitch. I like my trailers to be level or even have a bit of forward lean on the truck/hitch. It's the way I've always run and what I'm more comfortable with, she's a little front high now and I'd rather put more pin weight on the hitch/truck.
Anyway I'll post up soon with results and pics. So far absolutely no regrets, well besides the fact I have no lock or unlock on my key fob. Then when you put the key in the door it only unlocks that door, ughhhhhhhhhh. So 1970,lol.
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Old 05-26-2017, 05:41 AM
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I may be wrong, but think the reason the exhaust brake doesn't seem as agressive is probably related to the 3.42's just like the get up and go. The exhaust brake on my 15 seems very agressive with 3.73's, but I have never driven a 10 - 12 truck either.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:29 PM
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Makes sense and while it crossed my mind I never really thought about it but I think it is the big difference. I towed today and I will say the truck being a long bed and Dually I honestly forgot I was towing at times. That said the 3.42 are going to take some getting used to from a stop, my last truck was 3.73 and my Mega was 4.10 so I'm used to more grunt out of the hole. I never felt it was lacking power I just had to use more foot, the trade off is mileage/economy and I will take that all day long. Heck it's rating is still 5000lbs over my last two trucks so legally I can haul a lot more while getting better mileage is a win win.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:22 PM
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:33 PM
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Oh and a little chainsaw ****, right to left 661c, 461, 241c.


Have a good one Gents, Rye.
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