Stargeezer

This past weekend I serviced my truck filters (10k miles). The air filter was not too bad but I changed it anyway and the oil and filter were changed too. As a preventitive check (ok, I was courious), I opened up the fuel filter and got a major shock - the fuel filter was horrid! It looked plugged on one side and there was some fiber material stuck to it - looked like cotton. The inside of the filter looked light grey in color so all the yucky stuff appeared to be on just the outside, as it should be.

I know the owner's manual suggests servicing it at 15k miles, but I really doubt that this filter would have gone that distance.

We are careful to buy fuel where I see filters on the pump and mostly buy from the BIG oil companies - hopeing to get better product. Locally, there's not any difference in prices. EVERYBODY has biodiesel in Illinois so there's no chance to escape the problems it brings. Every pump seems to have signage that states that there may be as much as 15% bio. in the fuel.

Again the owners manual says not to run more than 5% bio so I'm sure I'm over these standards.

My question is what to do? I plan to drain the filter every couple thousand miles from here out and will change the filter sooner the next time, but how often is often enough? Should I be running a additive even though the manual says its not needed?

Should I add a inline filter of some kind and if so, which one will not void the warranty or work best?

I had no warnings or problems with the truck when I found this. It was just a very nice weekend and I decided a little "hood-time" with my son would be fun. Glad I did. Now I need to order a couple more filters to have "on the shelf". Hello? Geno's??

One nice thing about my truck setup - with the 4" body lift and suspension lift, I could reach right into the filter through the fenderwell gap.

I'm open to any input.

Stargeezer

Can I just cut the fuel line and install this http://store.dieseltruckresource.com/2mifwseco.html between the tank and the motor?

FMB

Best? I guess it depends on exactly what you wish to accomplish and how much $$ you want to spend. For me, I use something very similar to this. It picks up the larger garbage pre-pump.

Spooler

Filters are only good for about 10K. Replace it. You should be fine. All filters with this type of mileage look black as the dickens. That part is normal.

Blake Clark

Bout as good as it gets right here.


http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...id=MK21012-BLK

NB64

I change my oil every 4K and the fuel filter every 8K(every other oil change) and the air every 15K. I change my oil every 4K because thats about when the reminder comes on with my driving habits.

Mike Holmen

You should really have a fuel pressure gauge. More filters, less fuel pressure at the CP3. I want to run a hellman pickup and a fass on mine, once I get some time this winter to fix some of these dodge issues.

Seen a few truck driving around with five fuel filters. Seen a few of them have starting issues, from the lack of fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is really low you will get a cel.

Stargeezer

Dropping pressure or starving the engine is my concern with adding an additional filter system, but its better than getting crud into the injectors.

With the spin-on 2mu filters installed before the OEM can, I guess you would not have to change the OEM filter as often.

Dustybowls

I would install a 2 micron filter between the stock filter and cp3. here is my setup for my 07

carl48

get the one you picked or make your own, they work perfect and will save your cp3 and injectors, you will never have to change the stock filter again. you can save a $150 by building your own do not change the filters until the pressure to the cp3 drops in half under load.
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.

the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5.9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to ckjr48@aol.com and i will send pix and instructions
these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
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Stargeezer

If anyone ever wonders if paying a few dollars donation for membership is worth it -all I can say is "Where else will somebody share so much info, pictures and step by step instructions? All of it backed up with real experience on the road."

Thanks Carl, you are tops in my book, brother. Hopefully I can be as helpful to someone else.

Dustybowls

I also have a fuel water separator under the truck. I wanted to keep my filters inline from largest to smallest 20um,5um,2um. I believe Glacier diesel has the templet for the bracket I used under the truck,It bolts the the seat mounting bolts.

RAMRODD

I change the stock fuel filter every 30k and I have never had injector problems.

Sure running a extra fuel filter cant hurt running. But a 2micron fuel filter under the truck out in the open, I know I would have a problem with jelling

Mike Holmen

Hey guys, under the hood a 4th gen is different than your 3rd gen 5.9L truck. There is a bunch of emission stuff up there by the CP. Once of course once you remove the stock stuff and install an aftermarket air horn, there is tons of room for an aftermarket filter.

Stargeezer

Hey ramrod, thanks for jumping in. Why do you think it would gell sooner with an under the truck filter? The tank and lines are under there already and will at the same temp.


I don't recall where you are located, but most of the locals here tell me that gelling is not too bad of a issue here. As long as you are not running summer fuel.

I hope to be heading south before its a concern, but I want know what to watch for and at what temps it starts.

Thanks guys.