trik396

And what brand did you go with?

.boB

116K miles. Front rotors are still stock.

I replaced the rears a couple of years ago because the caliper locked and they overheated. I went down to Autozone and bought some stock replacement rotors, and premium non-ceramic pads.

Don't get fooled in to buying slotted, dimpled, or drilled rotors. Unless you just want the bling and are willing to accept the short comings.

ssandlin

Mine are still stock as well. I had the front ones turned at 130K when I put new pads on them. I'm at 151k miles now.

justen920

100k. Got a great deal on pads and rotors so I pulled the trigger. Previous owner let the brakes wear way to long.
Napa gold brand. Buddy works there.

exolent

so no advantage to slotted/drilled?

Danderson

I installed them on my '98.5 and experienced worse stopping. Slotted and drilled rotors have 9% less clamping area. I threw them away and got NAPA premiums and restored the stock anemic braking the truck came with from the factory.

toadfather

I've replaced all four twice. NAPA premium. 180,000 miles now. Seams that they all wear evenly and two sets of pads for each rotor and then they are too thin for inspection in the great state of Pennsylvania. First truck I've owned with rear disks. Both rear calipers have hung on different occasions and been replaced with NAPA parts. Not used to replacing rears until the shoes checked and cracked.

.boB

Drilled holes are simply for bling. They provide no performance advantage, and may decrease braking performance. The holes form stress cracks, and need to be replaced sooner. Dimples are for the bling without the stress cracks. Holes and dimples can also creates vibrations and noise as the pad moves across the uneven surface.

Slots act kind of like a cheese slicer. Every time the pad passes over the slot it shaves off a very fine layer of pad material. This is a good thing for a track car, where the pads get really hot and might glaze. Not so good for a street car or truck. They shorten pad life and create more dust.

rockcrawler304

^^^ ALL of this!!^^^

I love how some people say but look at (pick any high end sports car) they have drilled and slotted rotors!!
Most of these high end sports cars will go their entire life on one set of pads because they are not a daily driver!

Spooler

I wouldn't buy anything but stock type rotors. Cars with drilled and slotted rotors have there place. I have put over 70,000 miles on my 1975 Datsun 280zt with upgraded brakes. 13" drilled and slotted rotors on the front and 12" rotors on the back. I have had no ill affects of the drilled/slotted rotors. I still have 3/4's of my pads left on front. So the cheese grader idea is out when it comes to the pads. My only issues have been in cool wet weather. I will have to make sure to keep the brakes warm or else I won't have any for a few seconds under a panic stop.

.boB

"Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them"

http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechFaqs.aspx

Look near the bottom in the "rotors" section.

texasaggie2005

I'm planning on replacing my front rotors this upcoming weekend. What all tools do I need? Socket sizes, etc. I've done my pads twice, so I know I have the tools for that, but rotors are going to be new for me. Any advice would be appreciated.

Raspy

I can't see how any other brand can be better than stock.

I'm still on my original rotors and have never even ground them. Now at 280,000 miles. I've put in three sets of Chrysler premium pads after the stock set and get about 85,000 miles per set on the fronts. I've had them literally smoking hot and no warping. Why switch to another brand?

Raspy

Holes also make the disk lighter for its diameter, but that's mainly a benefit for motorcycles and bicycles. The holes relieve outgassing as the brakes are pushed to the point of boiling the surface of the pad. This gas acts like a lubricant and reduces the friction, but the holes keep the force per unit area up and let the gas escape. If the disk gets wet, the holes offer an escape route so the water lubricates for less time because it gets scraped off sooner.

Overall, the brakes on the third gen Dodges, in stock form, are the best of any I've had on any vehicle. It's hard to argue how well they work and how long they last. Just be sure to get the OEM Premium pads. Can't beat them.

.boB

They can get pretty stuck in place, and can be a real bear to remove. Even if you don't live in salt country.

Remove all tinnerman nuts. Mine had 5 on each side.

Get a short piece of 2x4, like 18-24". Wedge it between the inside edge of the rotor and the frame, behind the axle seemed to work best. With the engine running, use the steering wheel to press the lumber against the rotor. use moderate pressure and bounce it a few times. Spin the rotor 180* and do it again. You may have to repeat those steps a few time, but it will eventually pop loose.

Outgassing doesn't happen any more with a good pad.

I agree. The stock brakes are very good. I see no need for any improvements there.