bradler

If you recently had the new steering linkage installed check to make sure it was done right!!!

So I Installed a new steering gear this wkend and when i went to turn steering stop to stop 20 times as is procedure for re-filling power steering fluid after gear replacement and noticed that something was binding up 1/2in before i could hit the stop when turning to the left. Now I installed the updated linkage my self and did the ball joints at the same time so before installing the pitman arm ball stud i lifted front end up and pushed/pulled on the drag link by hand to make sure knuckles were rotating smooth with new bj's and that the linkage was not binding and everything was very smooth stop to stop. Got it aligned and thats when i noticed i couldn't turn as sharp to the left but assumed it was my dying gear box. So now that it was still doing it with a new gear box i removed the pitman arm stud and tried moving the linkage by hand again to find that i couldn't get to the sop when turning left.

Upon closer inspection I discovered the problem was with the new linkage, specifically, with the way the alignment shop set up the drivers side tie rod end when they adjusted the toe!!

This is kind of hard to explain without photos but here is what i figured out. The passengers side tie rod end moves side to side in the socket relative to the vehicle as well as obviously rotating in the socket. It does not move front to back in the socket. Now the drivers side rod end can rotate front to back in the socket relative to the truck but not side to side. Now when you turn all the way left the drivers side rod end rotates towards the back of the truck, in other words if you look at it with wheels to the left you will see the rubber dust boot compressed on the back side and extended on the side towards the front of the truck. Now turn all the way to the right and the socket rotates forward and you see the dust boot compress on the front and extend on the back. So that means when the wheels are pointing straight forward that the drivers side rod end should be flat, not rotated either direction so the dust boot is not compressed on either front or back!!

When the shop adjusted my toe they turned the drivers side rod end so it rotated towards the back and with the wheels straight i could see the boot compressed on the back. Now because the socket needs to rotate towards the back when turning left and mine was already rotated and can only move so far, it would bind up when turning that direction!!

All i had to do to correct the problem was loosen the adjuster clamp on linkage and rotate the rod end so it was level with wheels pointing straight. However, both rod ends were already damaged and had excessive play. I went back to the alignment shop this morning and they will be replacing the linkage for me as well as re-aligning it. They claim to have never seen a linkage that works like this one before (and all this shop does is alignments with good reputation). So i just wanted to warn people to check this out because it can ruin your new linkage quick and keep you from being able to turn properly!!!

stroker101

thx for that info

00Dog

I'm not exactly sure what to visually inspect. You're saying I can feel it in the wheel if installed impropery but tuning it lock to lock?

Ace

All he's saying is the tie rod joints should be aligned basically parallel/flat to the ground with the wheels pointing straight ahead. The wheels tilt in/out pretty radically as they reach full lock. It's a nice-working system when it's set up right and not loose from wear. But it's a double-edged sword and why I hate this front end design - too many things that can and will go wrong.

bradler

yes, well put ace. seems obvious that it should be set up that way but it is very easy to rotate the drivers side rod end when adjusting the toe. just look after you get an alignment to make sure its flat!!