cromulius

I just tied into the one green (brake lamp) and two yellow (turn lamp) wires right behind the spare and installed some napa fuse holders and seems to be working like a champ. The tech at the dealer suggested 10 amp and a local truck outfitter recommended 5 amp so I put in the 7.5 amp to start. I seems as though d.c.splits the green wire down closer to the four pin and seven pin just like they did with the brown. I tied in behind the spare so it would stay dry. Hope this info helps. I will try to post some pics.

cromulius

how do you post pics?

P.J

They have to either be in your gallery or hosted by another site.

See that yellow mountainous looking icon up there when you post? Click on that and insert the location of your photo. It will "wrap" the text in tags that say this:
[IMG] xxxxxxxx[IMG]

Lomarker

I'm thinking that my truck is seeing this problem also. Its an 06, and each trailer I hook-up to, I have no driver side blinker or brake light, but everything else works just fine. Does this sound like part of this problem...and if so, can a reflash fix or is something else needing to be done. Thanks.

nymegacab

So if I wanted to built a fuse box, what amps would you use. Just punch in the numbers next to each.

left turn
right turn
trailer brake
back up
running light
brake light (is running and brake light on the same wire ) ?

Thanks

HOV

I'm going to build a simple fused cable, using one of these:



and one of these:



I'll throw in some cheap inline fuses and cheap inline fuse holders from Radio Shack, and secure everything with heat shrink tubing.

caseyclan

Anyone have pics of their completed "add on" fuse panel for trailering? I may have to do the same ...

HOV

I should be receiving my cable today or tomorrow. I'll make sure to take pics and do a proper how-to.

338Lapua

Here's the box I made for my 32' fifth wheel. Box came from Radio Shack, plugs, wire, fuse and holder from the local hardware store. Bolted it to the neck with ss bolts, but ran out of room to properly mount the fuse holder in there, made the choice to keep the box small because I was originally going to mount it to the truck. Decided on mounting it to the trailer for now because it's the only one I pull for now. Used 20 amp fuse on brake wire,15 amp on power for charging, hooked the grounds together, and the rest are 5 amp. Has worked for me for a couple thousand miles of towing.

04ctd

that's nice, why not blade fuses?

seems like glass fuses vibrate & come apart more often - of course that is on old junky cars i had, that someone had already wore out twice before I got them.

if nothing else, you could cut the wire and crimp on 2 female speaker terminal lugs, and plug into either side of a blade fuse, and have some protection.

but still do that inside a box to protect it.

that looks nice

338Lapua

Thanks, the only reason I didn't use the blade fuses was I couldn't find a block for them! I wanted blade style, but nobody had the holder in stock the day I wanted to build it, and I just couldn't wait. Even Schmuck's was out of stock. I thought about just putting them in there individually, but it wouldn't be clean enough, still plan on changing it, just have other projects popping up instead.

nymegacab

That looks great. But one question. Would it be better to mount the box on the truck side (before the outlet in the bumper) so you can hook up any trailer and be protected ? Maybe I am missing something ?

Edit: I see in the OM why - thanks and sorry.

Hvytrkmech

I had one of those glass fuse caddy's in my Hitchiker trailer also. While cleaning up some of the wiring I did not care for, I replaced all the buss fuses with direct replacement cicuit breakers, which are available at most part stores.

06inferno

LOMARKER..........
yes that sounds like the problem just take it to the dealer(*******)give them the above tsb and have them reset it... and put you some inline fuses in there so you dont get stuck out on there on the road...................

anyfx

Here are some pics of my solution