Shanajustin

Three weeks ago I replaced the batteries in my truck. I think it is coincidental that now my truck will not crank with the key. But maybe it's not. I have a remote start on the truck and it will start using the remote. This tells me that the solenoid and starter are obviously ok. All the accessories in the cab work, lights radio and such, in both the "acc" and "on" positions. Leading me to believe the crank portion of the switch is at fault. This has just developed in the last week. It did crank just fine for about 15 days or so after the batteries were swapped.

Am I overlooking something or has the switch gone bad? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Sur5er

Make sure that the shift indicator is indicating P or N, mine's a little sloppy and sometimes it won't crank. You may have an issue with the neutral safety switch. You can try holding the key in the crank position and wiggling the gearshift. I prefer doing this in the N position, jusk keep your foot on the service brake.

Shanajustin

I'll give that a shot. Thanks!

homegrown

did you find the problem I have the same problem and when i start it with the car starter i have my abs and airbag lights on thanks

cbrahs

the remote start would not work if this was the case. its a protection feature so the truck won't start if not fully in park or neutral to keep it from going into the house after started.


more than likely its the ignition switch dropping voltage

homegrown

I have try it in park aswell in nuetral I wired a push button to the starter wire for now and it working but i have lights on on my dash

cbrahs

having MIL lights with the push button is because the ignition switch on the hot side activates many circuits. i would venture to stay ignition switch is bad causing a drop of power

Sur5er

Nice catch! I didn't realize they used the same circuit, but it makes sense. I'm in the ignition switch boat!

cbrahs

have seen in before where the ign switch dropps voltage and won't start the truck but we can manually start it by jumping the solenoid wires under the hood to get it into the shop

homegrown

cool thanks next qustion how in the h--- do you get the tilt colm lever off so i can replace or even test the swith thanks again

BigIron70

Here is the wiring diag may be of some help to you.

Relay-starter motor (except srt) - 5 way cav circuit function
1 t40 14yl/tn starter solenoid feed
2 t753 18dg/yl ignition switch output (start)
3 - -
4 t750 14yl/gy starter motor control output
5 t41 18yl/db (diesel a/t) trs t41 sense
5 t41 18yl/db (diesel m/t) park/neutral position switch sense
5 t752 18dg/or (gas) starter motor relay control

Matt McQuigg

You ever find the issue. My truck is doing the exact same thing. And I'm sitting in the dark, after replacing the ignition switch. And still won't try to crank. Thanks