Trailer Plug, Turn Signal Not Working
Did you check your ground wires? I had a similar issue on my trailer. The ground wire was bad. Hopefully your issue is an easy fix, although it took a while to determine what it really was.
NOW... depending on a delicate little OEM box to do the job when I have 5 or 6 trailers that I tow? That is risky business >>> Do you have an alternative?
I drew up a relay box that can be plugged in at the bumper that isolates the power distribution box form the trailer altogether and just uses the signal as a trigger... But I don't have a lot of free time to actually build it... If you interested... I can send you the drawings and you can building and sell them here on DTR.
Oilguy
Part went bad after letting a friend borrow my trailer... it came back with a short and cooked the power distribution box.... I fixed the trailer and replaced the box...
NOW... depending on a delicate little OEM box to do the job when I have 5 or 6 trailers that I tow? That is risky business >>> Do you have an alternative?
I drew up a relay box that can be plugged in at the bumper that isolates the power distribution box form the trailer altogether and just uses the signal as a trigger... But I don't have a lot of free time to actually build it... If you interested... I can send you the drawings and you can building and sell them here on DTR.
Oilguy
NOW... depending on a delicate little OEM box to do the job when I have 5 or 6 trailers that I tow? That is risky business >>> Do you have an alternative?
I drew up a relay box that can be plugged in at the bumper that isolates the power distribution box form the trailer altogether and just uses the signal as a trigger... But I don't have a lot of free time to actually build it... If you interested... I can send you the drawings and you can building and sell them here on DTR.
Oilguy
The best solution I can think of is to use the current set up as JUST a trigger for a relay so that there is absolutely no possible way you will get close to the amperage needed to burn the fuse or the IC. It would be easy to build... the only complicated part is finding the connectors to hook it in line with the harness that is already there... The positive battery wire is already there also that will supply all the amperage you would need for the lights... but running a separate + wire would probably be safer to use...
Oilguy
Today I disconnected the wiring harness and realized that I am getting power until the point of where it hooks to wire that runs along the frame. I checked with the dealer and they ran a few simple tests and they agree also. Chances are the wire that runs along the frame and supplies the bumper hookup with power is cut or something. I hope taking it off and finding the messed up wire will fix it. If not does anyone know where I can get this, the dealer wants $475 for it. The part number is 56051263AA
Today i took my truck to the dealership to see is the problem was in fact the fusebox or whatever you guys are saying it is. After some troubleshooting the guy working on it thinks it is the wire running from the plug that is located by the front left fender and runs back to the bumper. The reason he thinks this is because it is getting power at that point, but not at the bumper. He showed me the tester and I agree, now can anyone explain this and also what exactly goes wrong with the fuse boxes that they need replaced.
With the info the dealer was telling me I took the wire off and looked at it, looks fine. I then went back to the dealer and he says it could be the Intergrated Control Module on the bottom side of the fuse box. He showed me how to loosen the fuse box and flip it over. He said then take the wire off that runs back to the bumper for the left side trailer lights. Then turn the signal on. If it has no power that is the issue. Is this the correct way to find my problem.
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