Ok so I am going to change the front and rear gear oil, and drain my power steering and replace the fluids.

How much oil goes in the front and rear end? And what weight?

Also for Power Steering what kind of ATF are you guys using?

Edit: Truck discription is in my sig.

 

If I had the answer of the top of my head I would just say it instead of giving you this advice.

The power steering fluid uses atf+4 (fairly positive)

for your other question use the search feature and be prepared to be overwhelmed with front and rear diff info!!!

 

I'm pretty sure it will take close to 4qts in the 11.50 AA rear differential and 3 in the front differential. I'm running Royal Purple 75W90 in the front and rear. The fluid must meet or exceed GL-5 specification if I recall correctly.

I use Valvoline ATF+4 in my power steering reservoir. The turkey baster method works well for this!

The transfer case... NV271 and the NV273takes 2 quarts of ATF+4. I use Valvoline.

 

front-74oz rear-142oz synthetic 75W90, i prefer valvoline
not sure on power steering but tranny i believe is 16qts if i remember correctly, should state in ur owners manual or maintenance manual

 

By sheer coincidence, I just finished reading the fluid change chapter in the Haynes book I received today. (Couldn't put it down!) Trans, power steering and transfer case (for 4X4's) uses ATF+4. The prefered "cost no issue" choices are Royle Purple and Amsoil. A lot of folks say you can't go wrong with Mopar. A very close second and more economic choice and the one I went with after going through a bunch of threads is Valoline synthetic ATF+4 I did my tranny last saturday and pulled the rear return line as layed out in post here and pumped out/refilled 14 qts. I got mixed feelings on messing with the band adjustments and don't have a in lbs torque wrench (don't try it with ft lbs wrench) but I'll probably man up at the next reg 6 qt change.

For the diff's, Amsoil (from what I read, you Royal Purps, please don't flame me) has the most votes here 75w90 synthetic GL-5 rated gear oil. Some folks that tow heavy go up to the 75w140 but others say 75w90 is sufficient even for towing. I don't tow so it's a done deal. Almost everyone agrees on the full synthetic though. I'm going with the Amsoil full synthetic.. I picked up a case on ebay for $100. Had I not found that it would be Mobil 1 which is a close runner up here to Amsoil and Royal Purple which cost about 50%. Just remember to change out your PCV valve when you change trans fluid! (I give that about three minutes...)

 

I changed the tranny fluid and transfer case out last year. I didn't change the PCV Valve. Just dropped the pan and replaced the filter. I think my tranny could use a band adjustment, bt I have mixed emotions on it too. I have heard a few guys say to leave it becasue they wear with the drum, and if you change the bands without the drum it can cause alot more issues then leavig it alone. What's the benefit of changing the PCV?

As for the Amsoil, I am not a fan, I plan on sticking with Valvoline everything. I have always had good luck with thier products. I used to tow light, but right now I am not pulling anything. I think the 75w90 will be fine for me.

 

I tow heavier on occassion, and use 75w-90 GL-5 rated. I use / prefer Mobil 1. The gears and oil have always looked good when I changed them. Get 7 qts, 3 for the front and 4 for the rear. It will be just a little more than you need, but not much.

Use ATF+4 for the power steering as others have said. I have used Valvoline, Mopar, and Pennzoil and never noticed a difference in any of them. Since they need to meet Chryslers specs to use the +4 label, I don't think you can go wrong with any brand.

 

I was kidding around about the PVC valve. I think they keep them right next to the spark plugs for our rigs at the parts store. PVC valves are a gasser thing. I was expecting a over that ine.

 

I drained the power steering, it was pretty dark. Didn't hold but a little over half a quart. So I had fluid go everywhere. So I had to get some degreaser and dose everything down and rinse it off. Changed the fuel filter, and greased the fittings. Am I loosing my mind, or are there only three points to grease? The two ball joints and the front drive shaft (mine I havent been able to find the hole to grease) I looked up and down the truck and couldn't find any other zerks.

I was going to grab some gear oil, but wanted to ask before I did. I am going to use Valvoline synthetic, on the bottle it says limited slip, in the manule it says that you don't need to run limited slip additives. Is that oil ok?

Also, when changing the front and rear gear oil, I just crack the cover and let it drian out from there right? Are the seals reuseable or do I need to buy new ones?

I realized after I went to the auto parts store that you were joking about the PCV valve, I remembered having to change one on a little beater car I had back in the day but it went completly over my head when you said that

 

I just finished changing out the fluid in both my my differentials and transfer case. The gaskets are reusable and look like they're actually pretty well made so I think they last a while. The manual calls for Mopar gear oil and the additives are already in it, as they are with the better oils like Vavoline, Amsoil or Royale purple. Any of those are excellent choices. Remember the transfer case takes AFT+4 and not gear oil, no joking this time.
Did you drop the power steering pump lines and do a complete change or just suck out what you could? I still have to do my steering fluid and got online to track down some better instructions then what are in the Haynes manual. Is it me or are Haynes manuals sometimes hard to understand?

 

The trasnfer case was already done. I just siphoned out the fluid. I didn't drop any lines. I think I may need to take a little fluid out because I may have put a little too much in there.

 

ps fluid is atf 4 so is tcase and trans obviously the rear end is about 4 qts and the front is 3.5 i believe. i did all ams oil in mine couldnt be happier.

 

The rear diff fluid is simple to change; the cover bolts are easily accessed and the fill plug is easy to access, as well as installing the new fluid from a quart bottle. Yes! You can crack the cover and allow the fluid to drain or remove the cover completely and inspect the gears and housing for large chunks of metal. The gaskets are reusable.

The front is more difficult due to the tie rod location; the upper cover bolts are a little more difficult to remove. The fill plug is also hard to access with a quart bottle. In addition, there is no additive required if you have the factory AAM axles. If you purchased the Valvoline Synpower 75W90 synthetic GL-5 for the front & rear diffs;that will be fine.

Use your socket and torque the cover bolts to 30 ft lbs. Be careful and don't over tighten them. Better yet, snug them up. I've found threads where they sometimes break. Fill plug torque is 24 ft lbs.

Yep ! The lack of grease zerks is a problem with these trucks.

 

? There is a drain plug on the transfer case. Add fluid till it comes out the fill hole.

 

I should have put a new line HDRAM. That was two seperate things. I was saying the Trans case was already done. then the next sentance was talking about siphoning out the powering steering fluid. Sorry for the confusion.