Stock Hitch Remove?
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I installed the Putnam hitch on mine a couple years ago. The factory hitch was in the way. One of the options was to cut off the receiver portion of the hitch and then bolt in the new one under it, this allowed for installation without lifting the bed. I wish I'd had my plasma cutter then, as that was a task with grinder cut off wheels and a sawsall. There were provisions to tie the new hitch to the old hitch for more strength. I am very pleased with the finished product, especially since I got the new hitch for $125 shipped after they were discontinued.
The factory really could have done better with the hitches on these trucks, the stock one on my 2003 F-150 was stouter than the one that came on my CTD.
The factory really could have done better with the hitches on these trucks, the stock one on my 2003 F-150 was stouter than the one that came on my CTD.
I wanted the replacement hitch to be as high as possible. That and the rust on the original class 3. The Curt hitch I got was supposed to be mounted below the original did not say that in the ad when I got it.
I don't tow heavy a lot, but I've never had an issue with my factory hitch. I've towed at the most, 12k lbs, but had no issues. Why replace it? Am I missing something?
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
My factory hitch flexed a bit under load, and I'm only towing 9200# with a tongue weight of 950# with a weight distribution hitch. There is no triangulation on the factory hitch, it only contacts about 6" of the frame all the way at the back putting all of the force on that small section. I feel much safer with a properly triangulated hitch like the one in AH64ID's pics above that spreads the load over more length of the frame.
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