mattn124

Hello;

I find myself squarely in the market for a 3rd Gen truck. I'll be selling the truck in my sig early next month to a friend at work.

I'm not familiar with the common issues on 3rd gen trucks. What should I look for?

I'm also thinking of making the switch from a manual transmission to an automatic. Are these transmissions able to stand up to the Cummins power? How about high miles?

There is no shortage of 3rd Gens available for around here. But I'm wanting something I can buy cash; so I'm looking at trucks in the 150-225,000 mile range. Also wanting Quad cab, short-bed, 4x4.


Thanks in advance for any and all replies;

--Matt

mattn124

Here is a truck I am going to look at today:



Thoughts?

Craigslist ads not allowed on DTR

mattn124

OK, I get it, no responses mean I should do my own research. I have and I will.

My apologies for posting the CL ad link. I did not know that was not allowed. Turns out that truck was a rusted heap anyway....


If anybody is willing to take the time, can you point me towards a source for explanation of how the common rail works? I'm very familiar with the 2nd gen setup; but does a 3rd gen even have a lift pump? If so is it the same trouble as the 2nds gen with being prone to failure?


Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

FMB

Quite a few folks with the early 3rd gens replaced their lift pump that was located on the back of the fuel filter canister with aftermarket pumps. Some of us replaced it before failure. Some went with in-tank pumps and some mounted a pump along the frame rail.

The #4 injector fuel tube is prone to crack. If it has never been replaced, plan on it either before or after it cracks.

Rail pressure is extremely high. You cannot safely crack open a line to bleed or check for fuel while cranking or running. It can inject fuel directly into your fingers/hand. 3rd gen doesn't need priming. It also has a preheater for intake air as opposed to glow plugs. Use NO ether in the intake as it may result in a loud noise and flash of light, along with the quick modification of various parts, moving them from the intake area to various areas of the garage.

Youtube has thousands of videos. There is

one 4-part series" target="_blank">one 4-part series

that discusses the 3rd gen cummins and is informative.

This video" target="_blank">This video

is about replacing #4 fuel tube. That should get you going in looking at 3rd gen cummins. Sorry for not answering sooner, hope this helps.
Back to morning brew . . .

Twelver

Will be following with interest, as I just got back into a Cummins diesel after a short-lived stint with a half ton gasser. Oddly, it sounds like I just bought a truck similar to what you're about to sell.

mattn124

Thanks for the replies.

I bought a 2003 QC SB 4x4 about 2-weeks ago. Couldn't make the switch to a gasser.

I updated my sig since the OP on this thread. Selling my 2nd gen truck (have received down payment from buyer). Just bought a 3rd gen truck.

TJAR66

My 06 trans went out at 100k. I towed quite a bit and had is serviced regularly. Had it rebuilt with upgraded torque converter and valve body much better. No real other issues. Great trucks

Mikeske

I recently found and bought a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 3/4 ton long bed with 122,500 miles and here is what I found on mine that needed attention and I repaired less one item and that is to be taken care of next month.
1. The shocks were OEM and the left front was blown, Replaced with OEM replacement Monroe shocks.
2. All fluids and filters were changed out including the transfer case, engine oil, transmission, air filter, the rear and front differentials, power steering, brake fluid and fuel filter. Replaced the K & N filter with a stock Cummins air filter
3. Steering damper was weak and replaced
4. Lift pump replaced by Chrysler in 2005 with a in tank pump. Tested and found to meet specifications.
5. According to Carfax the truck had a 4 wheel brake job and all four tires were replaced at 112,000 I can verify this as I did a tire rotation and it does appear it was done at that time.
6. Left front speed sensor wire was cut by the brake rotor. I replaced it @ 123,000 miles
7. The left and right front tie rod ends were replaced as they had holes for the grease fittings but the fittings were missing, I installed the fittings and greased the tie rod ends.
8. The front hubs and u-joints have been replaced somewhere along the line as they had grease fittings for the u-joints. Greased the u-joints
9. Replaced the stock stereo with a Pioneer head unit, 100 amp amplifier and 4 new stereo speakers, I wanted something that was CarPlay compatible
10. Installed mud guards, vent visors and tinted the front drivers and passenger side windows

I have always kept my trucks stock in tuning as I wanted something to last and be a reliable truck when going beyond the original design I found reliability takes a nose dive and I want this truck to be a good tow rig for my 28' fifth wheel. The only item that still needs attention is all four front ball joints are wearing out and they are scheduled early in April to be replaced with new ones. Just a normal wear item and this truck will be ready and I think able to go another 100,00-150,000 miles with no issue.