gadget.35-06

An earlier response said to just compress the caliper pistons with c-clamps and let the fluid bleed back to the master---many good mechanics I've communicated with say DON'T DO IT!!!! Open the bleeder at the local caliper and then compress the pistons; they all say that backflow of used fluid can cause antilock systems to go haywire. I'm no expert(I'm a chiller mechanic, not automotive) but it makes sense, and your brakes are your lifeline.

Swayse

If you are in the dirt a lot, your rears will wear faster than the fronts. Mine are.

tomm

I agree that if you feel ANY scoring the rotors should be turned,solely to extend the life of the pads by providing them an even wear surface.

I'm not so sure about replacing them unless you want to upgrade to a better rotor.

Your stock rotors can be machined many times and continue to function perfectly.


I'd bank the rotor money for a more usefull upgrade.

Ace

The stock rotors can machined as many times as it takes to reach their spec'd minimum thickness. How quickly that happens depends on several enviromental factors. I would not run new pads expected to last 100k miles on a rotor that was anywhere near minimum thickness.

Grit Dog

Rotors, up to you. For me, if the rotors aren't warped or cracked, I'd just put new pads on and go. Maybe sand the rotors to de-glaze them....depends what they look like and how much they're worn down.
An easy way to flush the brake fluid is to just suck out the fluid in the reservior and re-fill it 4-5 times. Do it once, drive the truck for a day or 2, repeat. After doing this several times, you'll have effectively replaced 98-99% of the fluid. You may use 2 qts, but it's real easy, only takes 5 min each time. FWIW, I do the same for power steering, but for that you only need to start the truck briefly between replacements.

sdguy55

Or you could just do it the way your supposed to and be done with it till the next change. Start with the brake that is the farthest from the master cylinder drain, go to the next closest, drain and so on and so forth and then refill the master cylinder pump the brake till their 'solid mushy' and then bleed them. Done.

TexasCTD

Sounds to me like I prob should get my rotors turned. I don't think they are bad bad. Im sure they can go another 100K.

Grit dog....I already do the suck out the power steering fluid and replace with fresh maintenance. But I never tried that with brakes.

I am sure none of this is rocket science....I just have never needed to do brakes on any vehicle. Im easy on them. And I don't guess I have ever owned a particular vehicle long enough to need to have it done, until this truck.


Lots of opinions here. I appreciate them. Keep em coming if you have anymore. And good links for brakes!

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txarrowhunter

I just did the front brakes on our work truck, it's easy! Our local Oreilly turned our rotors for $15 bucks a piece. It's the bleeding part that I didn't do. If you really need help I'm out of weatherford you can come by and I will help you. But front brakes are pretty easy to do haven yet done the back.

TexasCTD

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/6...0A3010425.aspx Pads


http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/6...0A2604489.aspx Rotors


Well I talked with a guy at work who is also here on DTR. He suggested these pads on all 4 corners and adding these rotors on the front. Get em on and test them, then bleed the brakes with fresh fluid.

So im considering trying this.....maybe in a couple of months when it cools off a little bit. So if I go this route I may go ahead and order and have the parts here in advance. Any thoughts on the EBC Greenstuff pads and Ultimax Rotors??

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