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Adding to an old sticky thread...I replaced a set of 15-year-old Bilstein 5100s (with the same shocks) with about 100K mostly road miles. The shocks were still in decent shape with no signs of leakage. I did an unscientific compression test using a bathroom scale. The new shocks required about 25% more weight to compress to the same length. Not sure if that's good or bad, but the new shocks did improve the ride to some degree, particularly on larger bumps.
My main reason for posting is to share an easy way to access the front shock towers without having to use extensions and wobbles from the top. I jacked up the side I was working on at the frame behind the front wheel until the tire was barely touching the ground. No need to remove the wheel. I removed the fender liners (held on with a few trim screws), which allows access to the three shock tower nuts with a 15mm socket. Removal of the shock towers can be done through the wheel well; much easier than working from the top (see photo). The shock can then be removed and replaced from the top side. Hope it helps a DIYer in the future.
working on my fronts. I'm not mechanically inclined but got the rears done yesterday. I finished pass. side but think I made error. Used impact to tighten top nut until shock started spinning. 5-7 threads showing. Should I back it off? Also what do do on drivers side. Do I have to put Allen wrench in slot in middle to hold shock from spinning or is that Allen slot only for helping when removing. Can I just hand wrench on until I can see 3-4 threads exposed. Sorry for my lack of knowledge. (Bilstein shocks by the way)
Don't use an impact wrench on the top nut. Use an allen wrench to hold the shaft and turn the bolt with a wrench. Torque specs for the top nut should be in the installation instructions...I believe it's 35 ft/lbs. Take a look at the first post in this thread. @rockcrawler304 posted some nice pics...one shows the compressed bushing after being installed.
Don't use an impact wrench on the top nut. Use an allen wrench to hold the shaft and turn the bolt with a wrench. Torque specs for the top nut should be in the installation instructions...I believe it's 35 ft/lbs. Take a look at the first post in this thread. @rockcrawler304 posted some nice pics...one shows the compressed bushing after being installed.
Thank you for the advisement. My bushing looks a little flatter than the one shown in @rockcrawlers304 picture, but I think I'm going to let it be. I'll do it the right way on driver's side.
GRATEFUL.
