Hard to start!!Grid Heater??
 

A couple days ago i started to notice my truck would crank a little bit longer with each start, the next day i went to crank it up and it cranked for about 5 or 6 seconds before it started and got worse all day. So i ran the rest of that tank out of it, put a new fuel filter, filled up at valero and added some lucas injector and...Yes it still does it, though it did cut the cranking time a second or so. So could the grid heater be out, or would it cause this behaviour.(average temp. round here is about 70) Thanks

How cold is it where you're at? If the heater grid was malfunctioning, it would olny give you starting problems if it was cold out side. So I wouldn't think that's it. I think you're on the right track with the fuel, though. Sometimes it take awhile to clean all of the bad fuel out. I'd also check the fuel pressure after the lift pump. Maybe the LP is on a slow death path.

If it runs ok, and it's just having a hard time "cranking" over. I would also check the batteries.

At 70 degrees you don't need the grid heater one bit. Look for another problem.

This is becoming common with the early 3rd gens now. Seeing more and more posts with this issue. First thing to check is make sure the batteries and battery terminals are good.
Next is the injectors. A leaking injector will also cause a hard starting due to the lower than normal rail pressure for starting.

MikeyB

The grid heaters don't cycle untill the temperatures fall below 60* F. I see your daytime temps are in the upper 60's and lows are somewhere in the 40's. The grid heater probably not cycling during the daytime. Should be able to see the dash volt meter drop if starting the truck in the morning, I am assuming you are getting the wait to start light. Must be nice to be where it stays above freezing [verymad]. Sometimes with my truck in the garage I will forget to wait and just fire it up and starts right up (temps somewhere in the 30's). Probably not the grid heater.

I've started mine at 20 degrees with out waiting for the grid heater and it fired right up like normal.

DBLR-same here i used to be able to just jump in and crank it up at 25-30 without ever lettin them cycle, and now it takes 5-10 seconds to crank at 80*

wait....the "wait to start" is only an option? you dont have to actually wait?

I am gonna lean towards injectors on ya, but thats only because thats whats wrong with mine, I have been chasing the problem for a good three months now and finally got it narrowed down to leaking injectors (DBLR is my witness. he has read almost every post of mine complaining about hard starts, and no starts). taker to a shop, have it flow tested, might save you some sleep.

good luck!

How cold was it? Heck my truck's grid heater is MIA but the truck still starts on first crank at Donner Pass summit a month ago.

Took mine to the dealer today..........still under warranty and tryin to get everything I can from the Goat Boys!! They said no codes were showing.........duh..............and they couldn't get the problem to re-create while at the shop............................NOW WHAT!!!!! Same problem as discussed in this thread, every now and then for about 2 months now, problems on the start. Doesn't matter if it's cold (30 or below) or warm outside. Or if the engine itself is cold or been running. The worst it's been is 3 misses and then, finally a hit..............WHAT TO DO............????????

Are you serious? Yeah, I almost never wait for that light. I really only wait when it gets into the 40's around here.......which is almost never.

I generally give respect to the light... Figure it's there for a reason but don't wait till it turns all the way off usually.

I've cranked it many a time without waiting too.

yeah, I had no idea. I had the same theory as above, I figured it was there for a reason. but it totally makes sense that you dont have to, thats just the light for the grid heaters, right? and those only operate at below 60, correct?

Well if you live where it gets Cold, I'm talking about temps colder then +10 degrees all the way down to -45 below zero (not the some what cold temps above 20 degrees) you bet we wait for the grid heater to shut off before we start our engines.

well this mornin was 42 when i hopped in to go to school and what do ya know...wouldnt start, i cranked for about 15 seconds the first time and about 10 the second time and NOTHING...but in the sake of another tardy i introduced a little starter fluid to my air filter and after about a 3 second crank she fired up

I am still gonna say injectors...i hope not though, those things are pricy...

Yeah, I agree, it is a fuel delivery problem, whether it's injectors, IP or LP.

I am also going with injectors, especially since it started with starting fluid. The longer the truck sits, the more the injectors bleed down and the cp3 can't make enough pressure under normal cranking rpm. The ether gets the rpm up and the injectors will keep it running.

Just had all six of mine replaced under warranty, I had your same symptoms. Mine would also hang if I would rev it above 2000 rpm, it would not rev back down.

Good luck.

i cant believe how often I am hearing about injectors going out...its almost every day. you would think with such an awesome engine, that would be the LAST thing to fail, and of course it has to be a part that is not the easiest place to get to.


back to the thread, seriously, just run it to a shop and have them test everything, you should be able to get it all done for about 200. I had a shop run all the tests they could, tested the LP, CP3, grid heaters, and flow tested the injectors. 5 were shot (supposedly). so I just sent mine to Don M.
cheaper than getting 6 brand new stockers, and supposedly these ones will last. which is good, cause taking apart the truck took me forever.

Common problem with the 03 lately. I have had this problem for a while already. I have gone through new pumps, (both of them)grid heater and checked all wiring. Next week it is getting 6 new injectors. Tired of chasing problem. Injectors better work.

Preheating a diesel makes it easier to start in cold weather. Some kinds won't start at all without preheat. Diesels that require preheating and are started without it tend to run rough for a bit and sometimes blow white smoke, which is unburnt fuel. The unburned fuel also tends to wash the oil film off the cylinder walls, possibly resulting in scuffing.

It's best to preheat a cold diesel. That said, I've forgotten a time or two, and I have been amazed at how well the Cummins starts with no preheat in cold weather. But there is a bit of rough running, so I try to avoid starting without preheat in cold weather.

drumroll please........this hurt, LP, 2 Injectors, 1 dropped valve, 1 scarred/scratched piston/cylinder, and what the heck why not a warped impeller too...im gonna guess about 6 Large.

OUCH. I forget, are you under warranty?

Not if the stuff in his sig is still on there. [whistle]

i would say time for the don m special.....[guitar]