Differences between a CTD 2500 Auto SRW and a CTD 3500 Auto? SRW
FWIW, if anyone wonders what 2500 looks like with 2K in the bed, there's a pic of mine in my gallery.
Yeah, I've had at least a ton of clay and sod in the back of my 2500 on one occasion when it was stock... I wouldn't be exaggerating if I say it might have been closer to 2 tons. Rode like a caddy for 80 miles on the freeway, country roads, and through a few ditches to get it into the yard
. It was squating though but never hit the bumpstops.
If I had found a 3500 with the price and options I wanted I would have bought it. But I'm indifferent really although a 3500 DOES cost more on insurance around here and it was notable, like a couple hundred IIRC.
. It was squating though but never hit the bumpstops.If I had found a 3500 with the price and options I wanted I would have bought it. But I'm indifferent really although a 3500 DOES cost more on insurance around here and it was notable, like a couple hundred IIRC.
Legally and technically no... but the ONLY difference, physically, in a 2500 and SRW3500 is the overloads... so the airbags are an overload... so you can safely use 3500SRW limits on a 2500. That is what is being said... A 2500 is the best way to go most of the time... but sometimes a 3500SRW is better... like my case, I found a 3500SRW with 10K on it, when all the 2500's had 30K+... I think I will take the 3 year old truck with 10K miles, even if its not any better than a 2500.
I see the Manufacturers rating as guidance. Tires are my number 1 concern.
I think I can use the ratings for a 3500 SRW MegaCab CTD; add air bags, timbrens or the like and be well within the saftey factor of my truck.
Anyone disagree with this?
And if you go to Dodge.com and build a truck, the 2500's come with a 10.5 rear. I'm not sure about when that all happened and if it applies to 07 and up, but I know it's true in an 07 and 08 2500. And I'm pretty sure that you have to buy a dually to get the 11.5 rear now. Wether it be a 2500 or 3500 srw, I think they all have the 10.5 rear, and yes, i know they don't make a 2500 dually, I'm just making the point.
As stated before, if your truck is a 2004.5 or newer 2500 or 3500 CTD, it has an 11.5 AAM Rear axle.
The website has been making that error since at least 2004. It will happen because the 2500 w/ hemi comes with a 10.5 axle (as stated above). The website doesn't change the axle to 11.5 when you change the motor spec from hemi to CTD.
As stated before, if your truck is a 2004.5 or newer 2500 or 3500 CTD, it has an 11.5 AAM Rear axle.
As stated before, if your truck is a 2004.5 or newer 2500 or 3500 CTD, it has an 11.5 AAM Rear axle.
My early '04 has the rear 11.50 AAM axle....
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From: Well I thought I lived in America, but its looking more like france every day.
The differance that I saw was the gross combined weight rating of the 2500 was 20k, 3500 was 21k, both with 3:73 gears. but does it really matter? I would say no.. If you want a little more weight rating in your truck get 4:10 gears i think it ups the limit by 2k
Gearing Difference
The differance that I saw was the gross combined weight rating of the 2500 was 20k, 3500 was 21k, both with 3:73 gears. but does it really matter? I would say no.. If you want a little more weight rating in your truck get 4:10 gears i think it ups the limit by 2k

OK we've all agreed that the 2500 CTD has the 11.50 axle. Why would a 3500 SRW have a tow rating of 13500 lbs with 3.73's and then have a whopping 16500 lb tow rating with 4.10's?
Now I know this doesn't increase the payload capacity but 3000 lbs difference between 3.73's and 4.10's with this motor /transmission?.......just seems tooooooooo much.
What's you all think?
Mike
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From: Well I thought I lived in America, but its looking more like france every day.
When I was buying my truck I went to dodge web site and looked at weight ratings between 2500 and 3500 srw. if you got the 4:10 gear ratio the truck was rated to tow 2 k more the total gross combined weight rating was 23,000 pounds, 3:73 was 21,000 pounds. Gear ratio really makes a difference in weight that can be towed!! This was in 2005 however and I havent looked at the tow rating at the dodge sight since. I wish I had 4.10's but you also get less fuel milage with them.
3500 srw 4:10 gears you would be able to tow around 15,500 pounds.
3500 srw 3:73 gears 13,500 pounds.
3500 srw 4:10 gears you would be able to tow around 15,500 pounds.
3500 srw 3:73 gears 13,500 pounds.
I've read the towing capacity on the trucks are rated at how fast you can accelerate up an entrance ramp. The 4.10's help with acceleration so you can tow more with them. As long as the truck meets a certain criteria I guess you could continue to put lower gears in until the thing would barely maintain highway speed but you could tow a bunch of weight! These criteria don't apply to commercial vehicles just personal ones. That's why a semi crawls up a hill and forces his way into traffic.
Thanks for this quote. Only thing is I don't think legally the GVWR means anything. I think in an accident you'd have to be found guilty of gross negligence for this to have an effect. Speed would be the first poblem in an accident. Towing a trailer 80 mph in a 65 zone might be an example of gross negligence. Being on a cell phone in an accident would not qualify. DUI or drugs would qualify for example.
I see the Manufacturers rating as guidance. Tires are my number 1 concern.
I think I can use the ratings for a 3500 SRW MegaCab CTD; add air bags, timbrens or the like and be well within the saftey factor of my truck.
Anyone disagree with this?
I see the Manufacturers rating as guidance. Tires are my number 1 concern.
I think I can use the ratings for a 3500 SRW MegaCab CTD; add air bags, timbrens or the like and be well within the saftey factor of my truck.
Anyone disagree with this?
.I've *heard DOT is going to look at your tires if they pull you over. I've never been pulled over though. If I can support it and stop it then I'll pull it... That equals about what the truck is rated for anyway so i'm good to go.
I've been told by CHP they'll check tire and axle ratings and that's about it. When they check your tires, they'll also check the pressure and adjust the rating based on what pressures you have in your tires. So be sure to keep those tire pressures at the max.




So 1 tons dont flex
