RHC

We took a trip this week to the Smoky Mountains. Went to Cades Cove. which is on top of the mountains. On the way back down (unloaded) it was ranning and had to use the brakes alot (winding, curvey, 20mph road) After i got down the mountain the brake light and ABS light came on. No change in the way the brake pedal felt vs. applied pedal pressure. The warning lights stayed on. When we got back to the place we where staying, i read the manual on how to reset the brake warning lights (the key on/off thing) the warning lights did blink but did not go off. :'(
So i checked brake lines, signs of fulid leaks, brake fulid level
every thing checked out ok. I then called a Dodge Dealer near Pigeon Forge and talked to the shop manager (It was too late form them to look at it). He said the following could be the cause (without him looking at it) blown fuse, blown brake light,or lose wire. I checked them and they where ok. Did the key thing on/off several more times with no results. Then later we where going to go eat, got in the truck started to drive off and the brake and ABS lights went off and haven't came back on
Anybody got an aswer to why the warning lights came on?

Hunter

My Ford used to do that all the time after coming down a steep grade. What it meant was your brake fluid was almost to the point of boiling and you were about to lose your brakes. <br><br>When they cooled off all went to normal, had not yet heard of this problem with a Dodge, hope they are not prone to that.<br><br>Hunter

spots

[quote author=Hunter link=board=17;threadid=14340;start=0#134798 date=1052068550]<br>My Ford used to do that all the time after coming down a steep grade. What it meant was your brake fluid was almost to the point of boiling and you were about to lose your brakes. <br><br>When they cooled off all went to normal, had not yet heard of this problem with a Dodge, hope they are not prone to that.<br><br>Hunter<br>[/quote]<br><br><br>Hmmmm I would not bet my pay on what Hunter said. Sounds like an urban legend . Your rotors and drums would be pretty hot (read cherry red)IF your fluid were about to boil. Then the pulsation and brake fade would put you outa the cab....Good theory if you are smoking crack... <br>Since you were driving in the rain I would ask the dealer to inspect for a breech in the wiring somewhere, allowing moisture to get in and mess up with the resistance of the sensors. Or a sensor can be bad allowing moisture in. Since the light was on a code has been set. I don't know about DC but some brands an electrical fault will trip the amber light, a hydraulic failure will trip both. But don't quote me on that as I have not read the 2003 manual yet. Low fluid in the resevoir can/will put the lights on also. This was probably Hunter's problem, although without inspecting the system no one can really tell. The dealer can tell with a scan tool. Good luck

Hunter

Nope, my problem was the fluid was boiling and soon afterward the brakes would give out totally. <br><br>It was part of a Ford problem in the late 80's, they replaced some parts that were metal with nylon to help the heat dissipate but that was not the answer.<br><br>I can just about assure you if you would have kept going downhill longer and using those brakes you woulda all of a sudden lost the pedal.<br><br>Been there, done that, and it don't take long on a steep hill. Did it to me on my borrowed Ford last fall on a very steep curvy downhill gravel road at 10-15 MPH<br><br>And Mr. Spots I take that as the most absolute insult that &quot;you are smoking crack&quot; and really don't care to communicate in any forum with you, ever.<br><br>PS: The fluid level was full<br><br>Hunter

MR. GADGET

[quote author=Hunter link=board=17;threadid=14340;start=0#134899 date=1052099897]<br>Nope, my problem was the fluid was boiling and soon afterward the brakes would give out totally. <br><br>It was part of a Ford problem in the late 80's, they replaced some parts that were metal with nylon to help the heat dissipate but that was not the answer.<br><br>I can just about assure you if you would have kept going downhill longer and using those brakes you woulda all of a sudden lost the pedal.<br><br>Been there, done that, and it don't take long on a steep hill. Did it to me on my borrowed Ford last fall on a very steep curvy downhill gravel road at 10-15 MPH<br><br>And Mr. Spots I take that as the most absolute insult that &quot;you are smoking crack&quot; and really don't care to communicate in any forum with you, ever.<br><br>PS: The fluid level was full<br><br>Hunter<br>[/quote]<br><br>Hunter <br>I feel the same way about it.&gt; &gt; &quot;you are smoking crack&quot;<br>There is no place for that on this site!!!!!!!!!! <br>Just because someone does not know all about everything or does not<br>use the correct word to describe something or you don't like what they say <br>Is no reason to say junk like that.<br>I have had some of the same problems on a Chevy and a 96 CTD!!<br>The Dodge-- The fluid would be ok and on big hills and turns the light would come.<br>The Chevy--- if you get real hot the lines swell and can set the light of for low fluid.<br>And if they get Real real hot after the light you then start the melt down all seals go out then the fire starts.<br>Trust me it happens just have the small problem of sticking and it not letting the pads release.<br>That is My 2c like it or not<br>Jon<br>

spots

I apologize about the smoking crack comment. I thought it was light hearted but I stepped over the line. In no way did I imply that anyone that drove a F*rd or is on this board is smoking crack. I did not want to insult anyone. But to clarify some points:<br>If the fluid was boiling (Ford has some of the best fluids, as they are used in race cars and modded hi performance cars) It was either not Ford fluid or contaminated, rotors and drums were not thick enuff for a heat sink, or incorrect pads/shoes ect. If the rear wheel cyls were seized than the fronts were working too hard. My point SOMTHING was not working as factory built on this truck. Worked many many years on F*rd trucks and cars, ABS certified, EEC certified, the list goes on. And these weren't just paper either. BTW metal dissipates heat better than nylon so I don' know why they would change some parts to nylon. <br>Again sorry for the crack comment.<br>

spots

If you have an ABS problem you should never lose your regular service brakes. Only a hydraulic failure or mechanical failure (loss of friction material etc) would cause you to lose your service brakes. ABS is there to assist the minority of people who do not know how to threshold brake, sorta like airbags and passive restraints (mechanical seatbelts) are there for people who will not buckle up.

Casey Balvert

RHC, a couple of weeks ago I too experienced the ABS light coming on for no apparent reason. Not really using the brakes much as I have an exhaust brake on my truck. It has only done this once in the 6000 miles I have had the truck. But guess where I was? Yup, the Cade's Cove area. Maybe it is like the Burmuda triange? Seriously, I cycled the ignition switch and that was the end of it. Seems these new trucks have their share of gremlins built into them.<br><br>Casey

RHC

Casey Balvert, i was between Cades Cove and junction 73(73 goes to Townsend) on Laurel Creek Road which is very rough, a lot of potholes. Could have been the rough road that made a loose connection worse. It was ranning heavy and the outside air temp (acording to my over head computer) had drop to 59 degrees.

Thanks for replies

BRDIESEL

I had the same thing happen.<br>After 40 miles I turned it off, upon restart the light was off and has never came back on. I have not pulled codes.<br>Truck never acted odd and operates fine. ???<br>