I'm getting ready to do a brake job in a motel parking lot. Should I bleed the brake's or not. I did buy some speed bleeder's, but some guy's have said they seem to still let in a little air. So, if it's not neccessary, I can live with out having to bleed until I get home and can order a Motive bleeder.

Here's the thread about the bleeder's. If you want to comment about them, please post it there. This thread is for bleeding, as I kinda need to know in a hurry. Thank's.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=186363

 

I have never bleed when doing pads..

 

If you dont open the lines, you shouldnt need to bleed them following a pad/shoe replacement. Youll push some fluid back out the master cylinder, but unless its terribly low to start with, you should just be able to top it off and be good to go..
just to clarify, you arent removing the brake lines from teh calipers/cylinders for any reason are you?

 

No reason to bleed on a standard brake job.

 

What if you shear off a bleed nipple? I never bleed unless I have to, just be sure to push the pucks back slowly with the reservoir cap off and rags around it, it'll save you a mess. Good luck I hope it's not too cold.

 

I'm like you guy's. I've never bled when just changing pad's. But I actually talked to a Bendix tech, and he said it was imparitive that I bleed the brake's.

I have not broke any line's or bleeder's loose either. I think I'll do the brake's and take it for a test drive and see how it feel's. Then if it feel's like it need's it, I might do it then.

Thank's for the replies.

 

Well, from what I've been told about why a lot of people say to bleed when doing a basic pad change out is that particles and other material can build up at the caliper end of the system. So, pushing your piston back into the caliper and forcing the fluid backwards through the system can cause that material to flow back through the system. It can then get back into the ABS, master cylinder, etc. and cause damage.

Ok, me, I've never bleed my brakes when doing a pad change out. I usually do fresh fluid every few years anyways. Is it worth bothering? I dunno. I've yet to have a problem, but it does make some sense. Up to you. If I was in a hotel parking lot, I wouldn't bother.

Have a good one.

 

Brake fluid is hydroscopic. That means it absorbs water. That is why the fluid in most vehicles is dark brown compared the the clear fluid in the bottle when new. The brown tint is from rust particles and dirt. The rust is from the inside of the calipers coming in contact with the fluid that has moisture in it. Granted it is a small amount, but.....enough to change the color of the fluid. Most techs will advise to open the bleeder to NOT allow that dirt, rust, and contaminated fluid to go back thru the very expensive ABS components. Ask them if they DO it though. Granted.....I should, but.....time is money! I have never had one mess up after doing a brake job, but I know that the chance is there , though. I know most import shops and dealers reccomend a brake fluid flush once a year. I will say one thing......I have replaced a lot less leaking wheel cylinders and locked up calipers on imparts compared to domestics. Could that be the reason?........It sure has to help. Also don't see broken bleeders on imports very often. Is it because they get "excersised" more often? Can't hurt!

 

If all you are doing is changing pads, and in a motel, I wouldn't tamper with the hydrolic system or bleed the brakes.

If you want to, it isn't a bad idea to vacuum out all the old fluid and completely replace the fluid, but there's no reason to do that if you are at a motel. I'd consider like every 5 years reasonable.

 

well if you're in a motel parking lot i would susggest just doing the pads first and worry about bleeding it when you get home.

no need to bleed the brakes at all really. unless you had a leak somewhere and repaired a line i wouldn't bother.

heck we never bleed the brakes when we change pads here unless a car is due for service.

 

Pushing the contiminated brake fluid back into master cyl. is not good, especially with ABS brakes. In dealerships, have seen many vehicles come in with brake probems a few weeks after pad change. Continimation seems to gum up valves and one way check valves.
My procedure is block pedal down a inch with block of wood against seat.
Slide a small hose on bleeder and open. Compress piston back into caliper.
Complete pad change. You won't have to bleed brakes if you muninuplate piston compress and screw opening. REmember you can press piston on other side out if it is loose. Is also good time to draw fluild out of resviour and charge with fresh fluid.
post by vzdude has it right.

 

In a perfect world we would all change the pads and flush the system with new fluid. Why because every time you depress the brakes it moves fresh fluid from the master cylinder into the lines and into the slave cylinder area and every time you release the brakes the now partially contaminated fluid returns to the master cylinder. The basic design of the system is set up to fail, thats why we change out the fluid, I do mine when it looks dirty or about every 5 years. I don't usually do it at pad change time. The brake system (especially with ABS) could have been designed to route return fluid through a filter back to the reservoir like big jet aircraft. They didn't do it for cost savings and are willing to live with small amounts of contamination.

 

Since the no longer seems urgent, I am moving it out of the HELP forum.

 

Ya,,, I didn't bleed them. So the urgentcy is over.

The pedal is fine. May be when I get home I'll order me a Motive bleeder.