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beats buying sound insulation

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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:05 PM
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From: New Jersey
beats buying sound insulation

Well I was sick of my front door speakers sounding like crap. I had some extra R-13 fiberglass insulation laying around so I pulled the door panels off and stuffed the insides of the plastic doorpanels real good in all cavities and spaces between the metal and door panel. The sound is a big improvement over what it was before. The speakers dont seem to bottom out with the bass and everything sounds more solid. I'm going to do it to the rear doors as well when I get some extra time. Just thought Id share my idea with you guys.
-Eric
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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Nice mod, I was thinking of doing this myself.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 11:31 PM
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Very good idea.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:47 AM
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how hard is it to take the door panels off?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by paroxysym
how hard is it to take the door panels off?

5 minutes max........5 screws
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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I'd be worried about that insulation accumulating moisture and rusting out your doors...
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by pdogg
I'd be worried about that insulation accumulating moisture and rusting out your doors...
Yea I agree, that is the down side to using insulation not necessarily designed for the purpose. But certainly cheaper, I would just take a look at it in a few months and see what it looks like. Then let us know.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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Another cheaper prodcut I have used in my truck on my door panels and back behind my seats is similiar to dynomat. It is in the roofing section of your home improvment store. Usually comes in 6"X50' rolls of the silver backed tar stuff used on roofs Identical to dynomat and has same results. Peel and stick. And only about $14 a roll. I did my two door panels and behind my seats in my regular cab with 2 1/2 rolls.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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x2 on it holding moisture but i think you'll smell the mold before it will start to rust, no?
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 02:23 AM
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Props for the idea, but mold is sure to be an issue!

Foam may be a better way to go as long as it's not packed tight and has air movement on 2 or more sides of it.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 07:31 AM
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uh, warm weather comin soon, windows still work ???????
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mikmaze
uh, warm weather comin soon, windows still work ???????
funny... didn't even think of that... looking forward to hear the response..
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bdewey
Another cheaper prodcut I have used in my truck on my door panels and back behind my seats is similiar to dynomat. It is in the roofing section of your home improvment store. Usually comes in 6"X50' rolls of the silver backed tar stuff used on roofs Identical to dynomat and has same results. Peel and stick. And only about $14 a roll. I did my two door panels and behind my seats in my regular cab with 2 1/2 rolls.
did you line the door panel or the actual door with the stuff? def sounds like a project for the summer as my speakers arent blown, just rattle the **** door panels and it annoys me and sounds like crap.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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I actually lined the door itself with the panel off the truck. Made a big difference in sound espescially when I did behind the seats. When I get back from this deployment plan on doing the roof and floor the same way with the roofing product.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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X3 on the rust. I always shoot water up the drain holes along the door and the door sill to rinse any salt or gunk out. You'd be amazed what comes out of there.
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